A few questions...
11-13-2007, 06:56 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
A few questions...
Hey guys!
I'm new to the Z-car family. I picked up a 280ZX for $235 locally that needs some work. The seller said that it needed a new U-joint and new ball joints up front.
I got under the car for the first time today and wiggled the drive shaft because I was told that if the universals needed to be replaced there would be play in the shaft and that I would be able to turn it before anything would engage.
The shaft seemed tight to me from what little mechanical knowledge I have but whenever I release the clutch theres a thud and it feels like the rear end is going to fall out
How hard is it to replace the ball joints? He said that they were causing the gnarly wear on the front tires. Autozone priced me $65 for both of them. I'm thinking that the alignment is off because the tires pitched horribly when they were off of the ground.
How hard is it to replace the pressure bearing line in the power steering system? Mine leaks badly but thats all the leaks under the hood
It isn't hard at all to replace the exhaust gasket before it goes to the Y, right? Mine leaks right there.
Thanx in advance guys!
I'm new to the Z-car family. I picked up a 280ZX for $235 locally that needs some work. The seller said that it needed a new U-joint and new ball joints up front.
I got under the car for the first time today and wiggled the drive shaft because I was told that if the universals needed to be replaced there would be play in the shaft and that I would be able to turn it before anything would engage.
The shaft seemed tight to me from what little mechanical knowledge I have but whenever I release the clutch theres a thud and it feels like the rear end is going to fall out
How hard is it to replace the ball joints? He said that they were causing the gnarly wear on the front tires. Autozone priced me $65 for both of them. I'm thinking that the alignment is off because the tires pitched horribly when they were off of the ground.
How hard is it to replace the pressure bearing line in the power steering system? Mine leaks badly but thats all the leaks under the hood
It isn't hard at all to replace the exhaust gasket before it goes to the Y, right? Mine leaks right there.
Thanx in advance guys!
11-13-2007, 07:01 PM
#2
Welcome to ZDriver! 
Feel free to browse around the forum as most of your questions have been asked & answered before. Check out this thread:
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/280zx-common-problems-checklist-purchase-inspection-16386/
Also... go to your local parts store asap (like right now) and buy a 280zx Haynes service manual. It will be the best $14 you ever spent.
Feel free to browse around the forum as most of your questions have been asked & answered before. Check out this thread:
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/280zx-common-problems-checklist-purchase-inspection-16386/
Also... go to your local parts store asap (like right now) and buy a 280zx Haynes service manual. It will be the best $14 you ever spent.
11-13-2007, 07:15 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
Yeah, I read through that but I didnt see anything related to the U joints.
Would that explain the hard shifts?
I'm picking up a Haynes manual tomorrow
edit: Just bought one off of eBay for $6.80 shipped
Would that explain the hard shifts?
I'm picking up a Haynes manual tomorrow
edit: Just bought one off of eBay for $6.80 shipped
Last edited by cockerstar; 11-13-2007 at 07:17 PM.
11-13-2007, 07:27 PM
#4
These are some good reads on u-joints / cv's. I came across an awesome "how to diagnose the Z rear end clunk" page the other day and didn't bookmark it... doh! 
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=joints
11-13-2007, 10:38 PM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
Would I be better off replacing the bushings or getting the washers and welding them?
I can weld well and have access to what I would need.
If I go the washer method should I just fab a solid mount?
Would I have to remove the diff if I just weld the washers or could I just stick it on the lift?
I can weld well and have access to what I would need.
If I go the washer method should I just fab a solid mount?
Would I have to remove the diff if I just weld the washers or could I just stick it on the lift?
Last edited by cockerstar; 11-13-2007 at 10:56 PM.
11-14-2007, 03:58 PM
#9
No... but to get the mustache bar off you will need to remove the 4 long diff neck bolts to be able to move the diff & let the bar slide off. You may need to drop the driveline from the diff to driveline flange too.
11-15-2007, 06:49 AM
#11
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
the front ball joints are super easy, held in by 14mm from the lower conrol arm (3 of them) and 2 17mm to the strut assy. and i think the tie rod may have to come off, but cant remeber, its been a bit. just jack her up, remove tires, and youll see, use an impact, the front wants to turn a corner otherwise making it a bit harder.
11-15-2007, 02:37 PM
#12
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
How will I know for sure that my ball joints are dead?
The power steering is out (just needs to have the pressure side of the line replaced) so I dont know how she really handles.
The wear on both front tires is insane. completely bald on the insides and at least double the legal tread on the outsides.
What do you guys think of these headers?
I figure some cleaning and flat black high temp flat black would do them nicely
These will give me plenty of low end over the stock manifold, right?
The power steering is out (just needs to have the pressure side of the line replaced) so I dont know how she really handles.
The wear on both front tires is insane. completely bald on the insides and at least double the legal tread on the outsides.
What do you guys think of these headers?
I figure some cleaning and flat black high temp flat black would do them nicely
These will give me plenty of low end over the stock manifold, right?
Last edited by cockerstar; 11-15-2007 at 09:59 PM.
11-15-2007, 11:24 PM
#15
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
Originally Posted by ZX specs sticky by jfairladyz
...CYLINDER HEAD
Datsun used 3 1/2 different head casting for the 280zx. I'll explain the half part.
I'll break it down by engine code:
N42: N47 (79-80) diamond exhaust ports with liners
F54: P79 (81-83 non turbo) round exhaust ports with liners
F54: P90 (81-82 turbo) square exhaust ports, no liners
F54: P90A (83 turbo) same as P90 but this head used hydraulic lifters.
All are aluminum non-crossflow design.
Valve Diameters: Intake:1.73" (44mm) Exhaust: 1.38" (35mm)
Valve Length (N47): Intake: 4.53" (115.2mm) Exhaust: 4.57" (116.0mm)
Valve Length (P79, P90/A): Intake: 4.45" (113.1mm) Exhaust: 4.48" (113.9mm)...
Datsun used 3 1/2 different head casting for the 280zx. I'll explain the half part.
I'll break it down by engine code:
N42: N47 (79-80) diamond exhaust ports with liners
F54: P79 (81-83 non turbo) round exhaust ports with liners
F54: P90 (81-82 turbo) square exhaust ports, no liners
F54: P90A (83 turbo) same as P90 but this head used hydraulic lifters.
All are aluminum non-crossflow design.
Valve Diameters: Intake:1.73" (44mm) Exhaust: 1.38" (35mm)
Valve Length (N47): Intake: 4.53" (115.2mm) Exhaust: 4.57" (116.0mm)
Valve Length (P79, P90/A): Intake: 4.45" (113.1mm) Exhaust: 4.48" (113.9mm)...
I havent pulled off the manifold yet
11-16-2007, 12:08 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
i have an N42 head, they are and odd shapped square, i guess you could almost mistake them for a diamond, seeing as how a diamond IS a square, just on its side. also, those are the rebello headers arent they? they are expensive as *****, where did you see them at? and how much?
also, im overhauling my rear subframe assembly, and im taking pictures to accomidate it as a write up i guess. it might be good for you to look at... infact, everyone should look at it cause its gonna be bitchin! im surprised not many people have commented in it.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=rear
also, im overhauling my rear subframe assembly, and im taking pictures to accomidate it as a write up i guess. it might be good for you to look at... infact, everyone should look at it cause its gonna be bitchin! im surprised not many people have commented in it.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=rear
11-16-2007, 02:47 PM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
i have an N42 head, they are and odd shapped square, i guess you could almost mistake them for a diamond, seeing as how a diamond IS a square, just on its side. also, those are the rebello headers arent they? they are expensive as *****, where did you see them at? and how much?
also, im overhauling my rear subframe assembly, and im taking pictures to accomidate it as a write up i guess. it might be good for you to look at... infact, everyone should look at it cause its gonna be bitchin! im surprised not many people have commented in it.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=rear
also, im overhauling my rear subframe assembly, and im taking pictures to accomidate it as a write up i guess. it might be good for you to look at... infact, everyone should look at it cause its gonna be bitchin! im surprised not many people have commented in it.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=rear
My exhaust is all stock (I think) and it has a slight leak. Rather than fixing it I think I'll take the opportunity to upgrade
I hope I can trust you all to leave me with my bidding. I found them on eBay. The current bid is $40 + $40 shipping
11-17-2007, 04:59 PM
#21
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
well, I decided that I'm going to get my car running well before I start any upgrades :P
have at them if you want them:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ksid=p3907.m32
have at them if you want them:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ksid=p3907.m32
11-17-2007, 10:28 PM
#22
Head Muckraker
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 9,221
Originally Posted by cockerstar
Is this a mistake in the sticky?
I havent pulled off the manifold yet
I havent pulled off the manifold yet
Generally, only "round" and "square" ports, including the heads with emissions liners, are referenced when discussing exhaust ports on the L6 heads
11-18-2007, 07:44 PM
#24
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 19
Didn't want to start a new thread just for this...
Prolly a dumb question, does anyone know what size the nuts to the studs/bolts under the flange are. Trying to be descriptive as possible; just the nut size, thread pattern etc, right where it goes from two to one. Just need to quiet an exhaust leak until I can get my new exhaust installed.
Many thanks...
Many thanks...
