Electrical issue !
12-23-2014, 05:16 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1
Electrical issue !
what happened? not sure
was starting up just like any other time all of the sudden i lost electric power to everything in any key position. everyone yells battery over and over but i promise its not. it tests 12.6 from posts. +post to body as well as from alternator+ to the neg on the starter.
im not really sure where to go from here. no blown fuses i should add, all of them have continuity. and work with a test light. all fusible links in the black box test as o.oo
i have been trying as best as i can to make sense of the wiring diagram but everything is so small i can barley make out what anything says.
heres what ive got for symptoms.
with the ket at off /lock. i have:
no headlights, horn, radio, start/crank, mirrors,windows or dash lights.
the only sigh of any electricity anywhere are a few relays clicking, and for some reason if you try to use the turn signals, the flasher ticks fast as hell..
anyideas or tests to try would be most welcome thank you.
was starting up just like any other time all of the sudden i lost electric power to everything in any key position. everyone yells battery over and over but i promise its not. it tests 12.6 from posts. +post to body as well as from alternator+ to the neg on the starter.
im not really sure where to go from here. no blown fuses i should add, all of them have continuity. and work with a test light. all fusible links in the black box test as o.oo
i have been trying as best as i can to make sense of the wiring diagram but everything is so small i can barley make out what anything says.
heres what ive got for symptoms.
with the ket at off /lock. i have:
no headlights, horn, radio, start/crank, mirrors,windows or dash lights.
the only sigh of any electricity anywhere are a few relays clicking, and for some reason if you try to use the turn signals, the flasher ticks fast as hell..
anyideas or tests to try would be most welcome thank you.
12-23-2014, 09:49 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,103
We have all heard those clicking sounds - and no start. No matter how many times you turn the key in the ignition. Clickclickcliick. Nothing.
If you had a Z31 I would say, sorry, it's definitely battery-sourced. Terminals, cables, grounds, charge/amps available. Remove, clean, scrape, re-attach battery terminals, check and clean cable connections at all ends.
Battery may no longer be putting out the cold-crank amps you need. Borrow a new DieHard from someone and try it out. Or do a jumper cables-jump start hook-up from somebody with a good charge system - and with his engine running.
When you get it started/running again, have your battery/alternator system tested for output/storage/charge capacity. Battery sellers will do it for free. Your symptoms are too 'basic electrical' to ignore IMHO
The power/connections aren't there now. With a Z31 you need 14.5 volts charging - minimum - and a battery that can hold it all and put it out in big amps when asked.
If you had a Z31 I would say, sorry, it's definitely battery-sourced. Terminals, cables, grounds, charge/amps available. Remove, clean, scrape, re-attach battery terminals, check and clean cable connections at all ends.
Battery may no longer be putting out the cold-crank amps you need. Borrow a new DieHard from someone and try it out. Or do a jumper cables-jump start hook-up from somebody with a good charge system - and with his engine running.
When you get it started/running again, have your battery/alternator system tested for output/storage/charge capacity. Battery sellers will do it for free. Your symptoms are too 'basic electrical' to ignore IMHO
The power/connections aren't there now. With a Z31 you need 14.5 volts charging - minimum - and a battery that can hold it all and put it out in big amps when asked.
Last edited by zxguy1986; 12-24-2014 at 10:59 AM.
12-24-2014, 10:58 AM
#3
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
fusible links or ignition switch faulty best bet. Take the schematic from the FSM down to kinkos and have them blow it up to 11x17. Much easier to read unless you are a keen eyed twentysomething.
if you would really like answers that would help you and avoid flames give the following info when you post: year of car, n/a or turbo engine, stick or slushbox. Most of us can tell by the year what model you have ie 85T is a turbo z31. Z cars come in many flavors and they are all different. example 84,85,86 Z31's pretty comparable. there were changes in 87,88,89. in addition 300ZX can refer to two completly different cars the Z31 and the Z32. No mindreaders here the more info you can post the more likely you get a cogent useful answer. The cars with L engine (straight six) changed almost yearly from their introduction. A 240Z and and a 280Z have similarities but they can also have wide variance.
if you would really like answers that would help you and avoid flames give the following info when you post: year of car, n/a or turbo engine, stick or slushbox. Most of us can tell by the year what model you have ie 85T is a turbo z31. Z cars come in many flavors and they are all different. example 84,85,86 Z31's pretty comparable. there were changes in 87,88,89. in addition 300ZX can refer to two completly different cars the Z31 and the Z32. No mindreaders here the more info you can post the more likely you get a cogent useful answer. The cars with L engine (straight six) changed almost yearly from their introduction. A 240Z and and a 280Z have similarities but they can also have wide variance.
12-26-2014, 09:32 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NH, formerly CT
Posts: 172
fusible links or ignition switch faulty best bet. Take the schematic from the FSM down to kinkos and have them blow it up to 11x17. Much easier to read unless you are a keen eyed twentysomething.
if you would really like answers that would help you and avoid flames give the following info when you post: year of car, n/a or turbo engine, stick or slushbox. Most of us can tell by the year what model you have ie 85T is a turbo z31. Z cars come in many flavors and they are all different. example 84,85,86 Z31's pretty comparable. there were changes in 87,88,89. in addition 300ZX can refer to two completly different cars the Z31 and the Z32. No mindreaders here the more info you can post the more likely you get a cogent useful answer. The cars with L engine (straight six) changed almost yearly from their introduction. A 240Z and and a 280Z have similarities but they can also have wide variance.
if you would really like answers that would help you and avoid flames give the following info when you post: year of car, n/a or turbo engine, stick or slushbox. Most of us can tell by the year what model you have ie 85T is a turbo z31. Z cars come in many flavors and they are all different. example 84,85,86 Z31's pretty comparable. there were changes in 87,88,89. in addition 300ZX can refer to two completly different cars the Z31 and the Z32. No mindreaders here the more info you can post the more likely you get a cogent useful answer. The cars with L engine (straight six) changed almost yearly from their introduction. A 240Z and and a 280Z have similarities but they can also have wide variance.
12-26-2014, 09:38 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NH, formerly CT
Posts: 172
How are your battery terminals? Loose or corroded? You could have a perfectly good battery but if there is not a good connection then it does you no good.
If the terminals are fine maybe you blew a cell in the battery. It can even happen with a battery that's pretty new. You'll still test good voltage-wise but you won't have the CCAs needed to start the car. Try jump starting it off a car that's running or throw a different battery in there. If all is well, there's your problem. If not, there are a ton of things that could cause a car not to start.
If the terminals are fine maybe you blew a cell in the battery. It can even happen with a battery that's pretty new. You'll still test good voltage-wise but you won't have the CCAs needed to start the car. Try jump starting it off a car that's running or throw a different battery in there. If all is well, there's your problem. If not, there are a ton of things that could cause a car not to start.
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