efi problem or electrical!!

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Sep 26, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #1  
Ok So my dash gauges did not work. I fixed the problem with. the fuse panel box was not properly connecting to the fuse. Once i fixed that all gauges started working. next I replaced my fuel pressure regulator. started just fine drove to a friends. then started again just fine, now once i was home i started car 20 mins later while still hot.

The first crank the car did not start tried again and it was like all power went away. checked fuse panel and there was a blown fuse. A 20amp fuse bottom one on the left side. replaced it with a new one. still same thing,I then replaced ignition relay from junk yard no change also accessory relay. NOTHING.. Noticed a click sound coming from efi relay.. changed it and now when i turn the key to the on position its like the current is being broken somewhere. the green light on my computer flickers. The two times all the dash lights turned on when i went to crank the circuit or whatever dies and i have no power. Any Help will do this is my only car!!
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Sep 26, 2011 | 08:14 PM
  #2  
Sounds like a dying battery.
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Sep 27, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #3  
Check and/or replace your ground wire after you make sure the batt is charged up.
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Sep 27, 2011 | 08:46 AM
  #4  
so i tried another battery not a brand new battey but another i had at the hhouse here. The battery had like 11.78v when i tried it. So when i put it in, Gauges and lights come on but when i try to crank I get a click and all the electric is gone. Turn key back to lock position and turn again i will get no lights or anything.
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Sep 27, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #5  
Maybe try a GOOD battery? And yes... like Bleach said, make sure the grounds and terminals are clean and tight.
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Sep 27, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #6  
Yeah like they said. Get a new battery. Don't fool around with an old one. Then if it still acts up, investigate further. You need at least 12.5 volts to have most things function correctly. Good luck man.
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Sep 27, 2011 | 01:53 PM
  #7  
When you have the key moved into the 'crank' position where all the lights go out, try holding it there and wiggling the key around in that position. If you get an occasional crank then you know for sure that the wire plug on the back of the lock cylinder is bad. That item can be replaced easily.

Rockauto.com Only a few left and only $10
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Sep 27, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #8  
Ok Good battery used and i get nothing my headlight wont even come on. the only thing that seems to work is the step lights.
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Sep 27, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #9  
Dude...

Quote: make sure the grounds and terminals are clean and tight.
This isn't rocket science. 11.78v isn't "good"... and your problem sounds like a classic dying battery, and/or corroded / loose terminals or grounds.
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Sep 29, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #10  
"Good" being a relative term in some instances, (not battery voltages) what is a "good" brand to use in the Z. Being a 28 year old car, who's batt performs best in these wonderful yet tricky little buggers?
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Sep 29, 2011 | 04:10 PM
  #11  
id be checking the battery conections to the car. batteries are a personal choice, i peronally choose optima batteries. i also like ac delco. also be checking the fuseable links. that battery voltage is definatly low, installing a battery that is tested good, that can hold cranking amps and voltage is a must when diagnosing electrical problems
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Sep 29, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #12  
You can also get someone to hook up with jumper cables ad verify that they can provide 14+ volts from their side will help you get and maintain good voltage.
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Oct 2, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #13  
ok the problem was a bad positive cable going to the starter.
problem solved...
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Oct 2, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #14  
Two fumbs up!
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