I guess I should ask... where are you checking for spark? At sparkplug boots? Or at the coil?

 

haha.. hopefully the plug boots.

 

at the coil packs of course!

 

yes... cause every body in this world has coil on plug setups...... lol

 

both at the coil and the plugs.

 

So if you have the correct amount of spark at the sparkplugs... that only leaves fuel as the other major factor (as long as you have air getting into the engine).

At this point, if it's flooded, take out the spark plugs & let it air out for a few hours.

 

ok will do..

 

you can clear the cylinders by pulling the plugs and disconnecting the fuel injector connectors and cranking her for a few seconds. That'll give you a fresh slate to start from. Do you have a multimeter so you can test anything like the CHTS or AFM?

Also, are you getting a strong spark? Or is its just barely sparking?

 

yeah like do what i do. hahaha... ok and... hahah omg... ok and pull the plug plug it to the plug boot and hold the plug.... haha.. and crank it and if it makes you jump and shake your hand its good.. if it makes you just jolt a bit.. its to weak... it should hurt lol... DO IT!

 

actually... are the plugs new? cuase the could be **** adn maybe the boots are sparking but the plugs arent....

 

The Plugs And Wire Are Brand New Nkg's

 

ok i took acloser look at the engine today and noticed my car does not have a chts. all mine has for smog is a canister and egr. So does that help out with the t/s??

 

Didn't your engine come from a 79 or 80? If so I believe that would explain why you don't have the CHTS. So that leaves probably the AFM. One thing I want to say is possibly your Ignition Module. Just because my Turbo would be so wacky it'd run one morning, then run awful later in the day. Then run really good a couple days later, then after cooling down and starting back up it ran really bad, then just never ran good again until I replaced it and re-set my timing. If you have a multimeter you could pull the AFM, that's really easy and follow the tests from the Haynes/FSM.

 

You've got something similar though so dont think you're out of that boat just yet. In the thermostat housing you have a water temperature sensor. I'm not talking about the one that sends a signal to the gauge. There's an entirely seperate temp. sensor there that sends a signal to the ECU to provide basically the same function that the CHTS does.

 

hmmm ok i'll try that thanks j again and every one else

 

didn't i saw that, or was it on another thread? w/e, hope your car can make it to a meet cause i might stop by on my way to cali.

 

when are you moving?

 

i'll probably leave like thursday, i have to wiat for some parts from shady, then i'm gone. I hope theres a vegas meet that day, so i can stop by. Maybe friday. Next week that is.

 

nope there is no meet on thrusdays or fridays. I work nights too. damn it... lol now if it was on a saterday i could get with ya.

 

I had a major flooding issue at one time. One day, just out of the blue. Lot's of spark, wet spark plugs, didn't like to start, let alone run... Turned out to be a bad wire for the AFM. It was reading an open loop for the injectors. If it would help you. I have a spare AFM that works great. Might be able to narrow things down for you.

Donna

 

dam d83 you got a gang of z's. Skit, yeah that sucks, i might go to one of the race nights or to the tri state meet, i'm going to try and bring some friends if there not bull shittin or working....they both play in bands so they might even be in a concert. meh, i'll see when the time comes.

 

i noticed that my afm was not grounded where do i ground it?? and does it make a difference?

 

I know the turbo one doesn't need to be grounded, but I do remember the non-turbo one having a grounding wire. Throw together a quick grounded wire setup to see if it makes any diff. Just use any available threaded holes on the AFM & around the fender.

 

yeah no change lol i wonder if my afm is toast.. i looked inside it and it seems ok though.

 

It is possible, that it could be. My other AFM's I got lying around, look good on the inside. But they only work mechanically, so the ECU can't read them. So I think the electronics are fried, or faulty. Could be what's wrong with yours. Just a thought though.