Clutch time!
10-02-2010, 04:26 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 903
Clutch time!
Ok... Recap: 1983 280zx GL 5-speed.
Anyway, time for a clutch. Felt some slippage starting, need to nail it while I have the x-tra $$$. So... Anyone ever ordered the "clutch kit": from Black Dragon (AKA: Victoria British)? Not looking for uber-speed-need-all-the-HP-now-before-I-kick-the-Nawzz-and-smoke-a GTR.... Just need something to get me to work and back, and maybe smoke a few Honduhs on the way home.
The Black Dragon option is $173 + shipping (about $200 total). Includes the pressure plate, disc, and throwout bearing.
Any other options out there that are decent and reliable?
Anyway, time for a clutch. Felt some slippage starting, need to nail it while I have the x-tra $$$. So... Anyone ever ordered the "clutch kit": from Black Dragon (AKA: Victoria British)? Not looking for uber-speed-need-all-the-HP-now-before-I-kick-the-Nawzz-and-smoke-a GTR.... Just need something to get me to work and back, and maybe smoke a few Honduhs on the way home.
The Black Dragon option is $173 + shipping (about $200 total). Includes the pressure plate, disc, and throwout bearing.
Any other options out there that are decent and reliable?
10-02-2010, 08:58 AM
#3
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
I bought the one from Black dragon for my 2+2 and it seems to be holding up fine and I have a bit of a lead foot. But its basicly the same kit you would get from a parts store. I think it was a "Beck and Arnly" or something like that, clutch kit.
10-02-2010, 09:22 PM
#5
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
I got my clutch kit at Auto Zone. Just a basic Duralast. Works just fine. It set me back a little over a $120 or so. Came with everything needed. (disc, throwout bearing, plate, pilot bearing, clutch alignment tool) I believe that's it. Are you able to change it yourself? If you need guidance, I could give you step by step instructions. Anyway good luck man.
10-03-2010, 11:43 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Alameda, CA
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I have done a few clutches, but not on the Z. Just by looking at the car and reading the Haynes Guide, it seems a pretty straight forward process just like I remember (it has been about 20 years since I have performed the surgery...). However, there looks like there is one bolt on the bell housing that's going to be hell to get to on the passenger side. Any advice on that?
Oh... I guess I'm going to have to remove the center console and pull back the carpet too, huh? Might as well pull out the seats to make it easier. Damn, forgot about that part.
Oh... I guess I'm going to have to remove the center console and pull back the carpet too, huh? Might as well pull out the seats to make it easier. Damn, forgot about that part.
10-03-2010, 03:01 PM
#7
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
Pull back the carpet? I dont remember doing that (then again, I dont HAVE carpet) But you do have to remove the center console I know that. And To get to the odd bolts I just used a really really long chain of extensions lol
10-04-2010, 10:44 AM
#9
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Hmmm.... just called the parts store. They wanted to know about the outside diameter. One was 8 7/8" and the other is 9 1/4" (I think that's what he said). I figured that since I don't have a turbo, I would need the smaller of the two. However, not sure which outside diameter he was referring to.
Either way $109.
Either way $109.
10-05-2010, 08:18 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 145
Well, the bolts on the bell housing are actually pretty easy.
How I replaced my clutch:
Go from underneath the car after you put the wrench on the bolt. I couldn't fit a ratchet at all, but I also didn't have any short ones. If you have enough clearance to properly maneuver its not hard to reach up while laying on your back. This also increases your leverage by being able to use your body weight. Whats more, a neat trick for extending a small wrench, is to hook the bolt with the circled end and then use the hooked end to support the enclosed end of the other side. It effectively doubles the length while providing a better angle.
Once the transmission has been pulled back enough to fit your hand up inside the bellhousing, you can wedge a long screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel by the passenger side of the engine block and a bracket. I do not remember which bracket it is, but it prevents the pressure plate from rotating when you loosen the bolts. Once one comes out, remove the screwdriver. Then loosen the bolt; it won't loosen, but it will rotate the plate. Replace the screwdriver when you get to the desired angle and loosen it. Rinse and repeat.
On my 1980 model, I had to cut the exhaust before i could drop the tranny all the way, b/c the bolts are pretty rusted, and there wasn't quite enough room to let it fall. Seriously, only an inch or less.
Thats my double dose of pennies. I found it much easier that way.
How I replaced my clutch:
Go from underneath the car after you put the wrench on the bolt. I couldn't fit a ratchet at all, but I also didn't have any short ones. If you have enough clearance to properly maneuver its not hard to reach up while laying on your back. This also increases your leverage by being able to use your body weight. Whats more, a neat trick for extending a small wrench, is to hook the bolt with the circled end and then use the hooked end to support the enclosed end of the other side. It effectively doubles the length while providing a better angle.
Once the transmission has been pulled back enough to fit your hand up inside the bellhousing, you can wedge a long screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel by the passenger side of the engine block and a bracket. I do not remember which bracket it is, but it prevents the pressure plate from rotating when you loosen the bolts. Once one comes out, remove the screwdriver. Then loosen the bolt; it won't loosen, but it will rotate the plate. Replace the screwdriver when you get to the desired angle and loosen it. Rinse and repeat.
On my 1980 model, I had to cut the exhaust before i could drop the tranny all the way, b/c the bolts are pretty rusted, and there wasn't quite enough room to let it fall. Seriously, only an inch or less.
Thats my double dose of pennies. I found it much easier that way.
10-05-2010, 08:54 PM
#12
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
Well, the bolts on the bell housing are actually pretty easy.
How I replaced my clutch:
Go from underneath the car after you put the wrench on the bolt. I couldn't fit a ratchet at all, but I also didn't have any short ones. If you have enough clearance to properly maneuver its not hard to reach up while laying on your back. This also increases your leverage by being able to use your body weight. Whats more, a neat trick for extending a small wrench, is to hook the bolt with the circled end and then use the hooked end to support the enclosed end of the other side. It effectively doubles the length while providing a better angle.
Once the transmission has been pulled back enough to fit your hand up inside the bellhousing, you can wedge a long screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel by the passenger side of the engine block and a bracket. I do not remember which bracket it is, but it prevents the pressure plate from rotating when you loosen the bolts. Once one comes out, remove the screwdriver. Then loosen the bolt; it won't loosen, but it will rotate the plate. Replace the screwdriver when you get to the desired angle and loosen it. Rinse and repeat.
On my 1980 model, I had to cut the exhaust before i could drop the tranny all the way, b/c the bolts are pretty rusted, and there wasn't quite enough room to let it fall. Seriously, only an inch or less.
Thats my double dose of pennies. I found it much easier that way.
How I replaced my clutch:
Go from underneath the car after you put the wrench on the bolt. I couldn't fit a ratchet at all, but I also didn't have any short ones. If you have enough clearance to properly maneuver its not hard to reach up while laying on your back. This also increases your leverage by being able to use your body weight. Whats more, a neat trick for extending a small wrench, is to hook the bolt with the circled end and then use the hooked end to support the enclosed end of the other side. It effectively doubles the length while providing a better angle.
Once the transmission has been pulled back enough to fit your hand up inside the bellhousing, you can wedge a long screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel by the passenger side of the engine block and a bracket. I do not remember which bracket it is, but it prevents the pressure plate from rotating when you loosen the bolts. Once one comes out, remove the screwdriver. Then loosen the bolt; it won't loosen, but it will rotate the plate. Replace the screwdriver when you get to the desired angle and loosen it. Rinse and repeat.
On my 1980 model, I had to cut the exhaust before i could drop the tranny all the way, b/c the bolts are pretty rusted, and there wasn't quite enough room to let it fall. Seriously, only an inch or less.
Thats my double dose of pennies. I found it much easier that way.
10-06-2010, 06:30 AM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 145
Nope. In a nutshell:
Unbolt Bellhousing
Drop driveshaft
make sure all the top parts are unbolted and take the shifter out
shove the tranny back a couple inches until you can access the bolts of the pressure plate
unbolt the pressure plate
And if your exhaust has never been unbolted, like mine, then you might have to cut it if you have to drop the tranny all the way.
What i'm getting at is that you shouldnt need to drop it like the manuals say.
Imma gonna find pitchas!
And here it is:
Unbolt Bellhousing
Drop driveshaft
make sure all the top parts are unbolted and take the shifter out
shove the tranny back a couple inches until you can access the bolts of the pressure plate
unbolt the pressure plate
And if your exhaust has never been unbolted, like mine, then you might have to cut it if you have to drop the tranny all the way.
What i'm getting at is that you shouldnt need to drop it like the manuals say.
Imma gonna find pitchas!
And here it is:
Last edited by KHCreason; 10-06-2010 at 07:01 AM.
10-06-2010, 07:23 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 145
Gah... the clutch kit form autozone comes with a clutch, an alignment tool, and a new pressure plate. Pressure plate's gotta come off cuz the clutch is underneath it.
Maybe I'm calling it the wrong name?
Besides, Im talking about changing the clutch, not dropping the tranny. They are just similar in process.
Maybe I'm calling it the wrong name?
Besides, Im talking about changing the clutch, not dropping the tranny. They are just similar in process.
10-06-2010, 07:44 PM
#18
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
Oh, your changing the clutch the really bloody hard way. I remove the trans entirely t get to the clutch pressure plate and stuff. Everyone I know also removes the entire transmission to change the clutch lol
10-06-2010, 08:38 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 145
Lol, well I consider the hard way pulling the engine to get the tranny out w/o cutting the exhaust, then separating them to get to the clutch.
I totally would have just dropped the tranny if my exhaust could have unbolted, but it couldnt, so i had no choice. But i really dont think it was that hard anyways. A bit time consuming, but im good at it now :P
I totally would have just dropped the tranny if my exhaust could have unbolted, but it couldnt, so i had no choice. But i really dont think it was that hard anyways. A bit time consuming, but im good at it now :P
10-07-2010, 02:15 AM
#21
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 903
One last question... I was just flipping through the Haynes Guide and saw this thing called "The Datsun Tool" to get the pilot bushing out. Do I really need one? What size socket would that be? The largest socket I have is 1 1/16" (but that is mostly for the wife's Land Rover). Metric would be 17mm and it's not a deep well socket.
10-07-2010, 03:50 AM
#22
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
^ That I am not sure of. I decided to leave the pilot bushing where it was. Because I wasn't sure how to get it out. Didn't seem to be a problem leaving it in.
Also...I just put my floor jack underneath the transmission. And pulled it back enough to get to the clutch components. I have done that twice now, on 2 different Z's. I also don't remember having to remove the exhaust for the operation. I do know I removed the driveshaft. And it has 4 12 mm bolts holding it on the rear end. Relatively simple process there.
If you still need any more help. We are here for you man. Good luck on your procedure.
Also...I just put my floor jack underneath the transmission. And pulled it back enough to get to the clutch components. I have done that twice now, on 2 different Z's. I also don't remember having to remove the exhaust for the operation. I do know I removed the driveshaft. And it has 4 12 mm bolts holding it on the rear end. Relatively simple process there.
If you still need any more help. We are here for you man. Good luck on your procedure.
10-07-2010, 11:34 AM
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 145
Exactly, WildMan, to drop it all the way *some models* need the exhaust unbolted. Otherwise, if your leaving it in, you just need the driveshaft and whatnot moved so the tranny comes back.
Thats what Im gettin at lol
Thats what Im gettin at lol
