joel280zt

Ok after trawling the internet for answers I have come up with somethings but not exactly relevent.

When car is at idle the charge light is off but dim.

As soon as I accelerate all the lights come on asif the car is being just started up.

The alternator is new, only put it in 2 weeks ago.
My battery is like 2 months old.

I get 13.98volts when car is at idle.

Does anyone have anythoughts or solved this issue,

Anyone thoughts?

rogerz

your post doesn't make a lot of sense (at least in American English). the light is off but dim (lights are on or off no inbetween if you see it dimly then it is on).

As soon as I accelerate all the lights come on asif the car is being just started up. what lights come on when you start it up. mine all go off after start. some lights come on when you put the ignition in run with the engine off.

13.98 v probably why you get a dim charge light at idle. possibly you got something loose that is causing things to make contact when you accelerate.

if you are saying you get warning lights when accelerating I think you have a bum alternator or your belt is quite loose and not turning it. don't believe that just becaUSE something is new means it is good. lesson I learned at age sixteen putting points in 49 Ford. dad I asked what is wrong. points no good son. but they are new. get a look like you poor fool.

joel280zt

Yeah I know the just cause its new doesnt mean its good, changed out the last one because it was rebuilt and died, basiclly the charge light flickers then as you accelerate it goes bright and the rest of the hazard light light up then when you get back to idle everything goes off with the charge light flicking again, yeah its sounds like the ic regulator, but what could keep killing alternators, the starter doesn't have trouble turning over the engine. Could this be a bad earth?

When I first put the alternator in it gave me 14.5 but has slowly being going down.

joel280zt

Yeah I've learn't with belts don't over tighten (ruins bearings) but don't leave to loose (slipping).

Switchtr3

Wow, for real? Way to be a f ucking *****. I'm American and I understood it just fine even if it wasn't EXACTLY how I would have chosen to word it. Hell, your post makes less sense than his (that whole part about the points at the end, wtf you talking about?). Nobody likes an *******... gtfo with that s hit dude




So an answer to the OP-

Sounds to me like you've got a bad voltage regulator. The same thing has happened to my car twice before. Just because the alternator is new doesn't mean it's definitely good. I'm guessing you bought a cheapish remanufactured alternator from a chain parts store (like an autozone or advanced auto or something of the type)? Those are well known to be bad right out of the box sometimes.

The higher the engine revs and the faster the alternator spins, the more voltage it will create because the regulator isn't stopping it. All of that power has to go somewhere so the lights will come on, it may or may not even effect your EFI. It's not a good idea to run the car like that because you can burn up your harness and then that's a whole other world of problems. Just bring the alternator back and tell them it was defective they probably won't be too surprised. Swap it out with the good one and I'd bet it will be okay.

If the belt was loose like rogerz said it wouldn't turn all the other lights on, if anything your lights would be dimmer because they're not getting juice. That and the same belt runs the water pump so you'd probably be overheating (not to mention the squeal of the belt, you'd know if that were the case). I also don't see what could be randomly contacting causing that either.

I did one time have something unplugged under the dash on the passenger side that caused similar charging symptoms, but I think it really sounds like the alternator, that would be my first guess. Did this problem just start happening?

joel280zt

Yeah just decided to go pop, but the issue is that this is the second one to do the same thing as the last worked great then boom no regulator, major headache.

FricFrac

joel280zt

OK, there is actually no solution to this issue other than, making sure you have a clean earth and your signal wires have clean contact, if this fails obviously you have serious earthing issues or to much resistance on you signal wire (i.e. replacing those old wires). If you have any of these problems your going to get a dead alternator.

My favourite one is the GM 1 wire trick or mod what ever you want to call it. That is a definite fail proof solution.

So my question is does anyone here make L28 GM alternator brackets for purchase?

evandubya

here is the original bracket.


here is my modified bracket.


Cut the bracket to the correct length, by comparing the two alternators. drill a through hole using the back hole as a guide.

noboosts130

I had an issue with my alternator overcharging and the charge light flickering. The gauge read 15V. Mine wasn't a bad alternator, but turned out to be a badly corroded fusible link for the ground.

joel280zt

Check those grounds, make sure the engine small black one connected via the heater hose clamp is connected with good contact to the block not the clamp, I just busted another alternator, then i fixed the gorunds and it seem to be running well now, thanks for those pic's defiantly a great mod. I ruined an alternater but repco here in Brisbane replaced it for free.