BW T5 into NA revisited
#1
BW T5 into NA revisited
Hey all,
Recently I was looking for info on putting a T5 into a 1980 NA 280ZX. I really didn't find any info on doing this so I figured I'd share. My old trans was going out and I had a T5 laying around collecting dust...so I figured why not.
The only things that I knew I would need was the driveshaft and diffy flange that go with the T5. The output shaft for the T5 is different then the Nissan trans and the driveshaft is slightly shorter and larger in diameter. Turns out that these are the only parts I had to buy to do the conversion. I would have had to buy the crossmember if I didn't have it already. It bolted right! I used the stock NA flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder. The arm to disengage the clutch is the same as the NA as well as the throw out bearing.
I did find there to be a fitment issue with the tunnel on the NA though. The shifter on the T5 sits slightly more forward then the Nissan trans so it contacts the front of the old hole slightly and causes vibration to be transfered to the cabin of the car. I will remedy this by trimming the front of the hole slightly. I also will have to lengthen my reverse switch wiring as it is in a different location on the T5.
Other then that it works great! I really like how nice the shifter is on the T5 compared to the old worn out Nissan trans. My car also seems to accelerate much better and is a lot less noisy.
Recently I was looking for info on putting a T5 into a 1980 NA 280ZX. I really didn't find any info on doing this so I figured I'd share. My old trans was going out and I had a T5 laying around collecting dust...so I figured why not.
The only things that I knew I would need was the driveshaft and diffy flange that go with the T5. The output shaft for the T5 is different then the Nissan trans and the driveshaft is slightly shorter and larger in diameter. Turns out that these are the only parts I had to buy to do the conversion. I would have had to buy the crossmember if I didn't have it already. It bolted right! I used the stock NA flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder. The arm to disengage the clutch is the same as the NA as well as the throw out bearing.
I did find there to be a fitment issue with the tunnel on the NA though. The shifter on the T5 sits slightly more forward then the Nissan trans so it contacts the front of the old hole slightly and causes vibration to be transfered to the cabin of the car. I will remedy this by trimming the front of the hole slightly. I also will have to lengthen my reverse switch wiring as it is in a different location on the T5.
Other then that it works great! I really like how nice the shifter is on the T5 compared to the old worn out Nissan trans. My car also seems to accelerate much better and is a lot less noisy.
#2
Very good!
Thanks for posting that. I've got a 1982 280ZX 2+2 n/a with a transmission going out...
I've had this low mile T5 in my garage for years wanting to put it in, but no time. I've got a new slave cylinder and I've got the center driveshaft. So, I was wondering if the rear "4-bolt" pattern on the center turbo driveshaft matches to the n/a. I guess so, right?
Now, the crossmember. Are you talking about the rear transmission mount? I don't have that for the turbo so looks like I might need to get one before hand. I'm actually thinking of switching from this turbo (2+2) clutch setup to the lighter weight 2-seater clutch. I really don't think I need a return spring that hard. I've already changed out the pedal springs and that didnt' help much so its all within the transmission.
Going from a 3.0:1 first gear to a 3.5:1 !!!
Thanks for posting that. I've got a 1982 280ZX 2+2 n/a with a transmission going out...
I've had this low mile T5 in my garage for years wanting to put it in, but no time. I've got a new slave cylinder and I've got the center driveshaft. So, I was wondering if the rear "4-bolt" pattern on the center turbo driveshaft matches to the n/a. I guess so, right?
Now, the crossmember. Are you talking about the rear transmission mount? I don't have that for the turbo so looks like I might need to get one before hand. I'm actually thinking of switching from this turbo (2+2) clutch setup to the lighter weight 2-seater clutch. I really don't think I need a return spring that hard. I've already changed out the pedal springs and that didnt' help much so its all within the transmission.
Going from a 3.0:1 first gear to a 3.5:1 !!!
#3
Bleach,
You will need to get the diff flange to mount the driveshaft to. The pattern on the turbo shaft is slightly larger...I've heard of guys doing this swap in an older turbo Z and just redrilling the holes....swapping out the flange is much easier and faster. You will need the trans crossmember(trans mount) due to the mounting on the T5 is farther towards the rear. I did have to ever so slightly trim the tunnel opening on the passenger side for the shifter....think this is cuz my motor mounts are sagging.
Took me 4 hours to do the swap...so get to it...HEHE! It was definetely worth the time to do this. First gear launches are oh so much better with that 3.5 first gear! I'm sure you'll enjoy how nice the T5 shifter is as well.
You will need to get the diff flange to mount the driveshaft to. The pattern on the turbo shaft is slightly larger...I've heard of guys doing this swap in an older turbo Z and just redrilling the holes....swapping out the flange is much easier and faster. You will need the trans crossmember(trans mount) due to the mounting on the T5 is farther towards the rear. I did have to ever so slightly trim the tunnel opening on the passenger side for the shifter....think this is cuz my motor mounts are sagging.
Took me 4 hours to do the swap...so get to it...HEHE! It was definetely worth the time to do this. First gear launches are oh so much better with that 3.5 first gear! I'm sure you'll enjoy how nice the T5 shifter is as well.
#4
Bleach,
Isn't the 2+2 12 inches longer. I don't know for sure if the driveshaft lengths are the same. Not that its a big deal to have one lengthened..........
Originally posted by BleachZee
I've got a 1982 280ZX 2+2 n/a with a transmission going out...
I've got a 1982 280ZX 2+2 n/a with a transmission going out...
Isn't the 2+2 12 inches longer. I don't know for sure if the driveshaft lengths are the same. Not that its a big deal to have one lengthened..........
#5
True! So the middle part of my turbo driveshaft is probably from a 2-seater. If so, I could just have the center driveshaft lengthened, and in the process weld the back end of the NA driveshaft with the front end of the trubo driveshaft! Problems solved. that's more downtime, but i've got the truck to get me around.
Also, I've got a 2-piece turbo driveshaft and I only have the front part of the turbo shaft, so I would be connecting that to the center yolk of my NA. If the NA is a one-piece, then Im' not sure what's going on. I haven't really looked under my car that much!
also got a new timing chain set; gotta put that in. That's another whole day's work...
Also, I've got a 2-piece turbo driveshaft and I only have the front part of the turbo shaft, so I would be connecting that to the center yolk of my NA. If the NA is a one-piece, then Im' not sure what's going on. I haven't really looked under my car that much!
also got a new timing chain set; gotta put that in. That's another whole day's work...
Last edited by Bleach; 08-25-2003 at 12:12 PM.
#6
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I am doing the T5 into the NA conversion. My T5 is from an 83 280ZXT. My car is a 82 280ZX. Everything is going good except the driveshaft to rear-end connection.
How do you change out the diffy flange?
Would it be easier and cheaper to have the flange cut off the NA driveshaft and welded to the T5 driveshaft? Is there a U-Joint that can be used to match the NA diffy flang to the T5 driveshaft?
Thanks for any and all help and opinions.
How do you change out the diffy flange?
Would it be easier and cheaper to have the flange cut off the NA driveshaft and welded to the T5 driveshaft? Is there a U-Joint that can be used to match the NA diffy flang to the T5 driveshaft?
Thanks for any and all help and opinions.
#7
MacksZs,
You'll need to use a puller to get the flange off of the differential. If you don't have one, you can usually rent one from an autoparts store like Autozone for instance. I then used a dead blow hammer to get the turbo flange started and used the nut to push it the rest of the way on.
Good luck!
You'll need to use a puller to get the flange off of the differential. If you don't have one, you can usually rent one from an autoparts store like Autozone for instance. I then used a dead blow hammer to get the turbo flange started and used the nut to push it the rest of the way on.
Good luck!
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