Hey all,

I'm about to go and check out a local 1979 280zx and was wondering if there are any year-specific problems I should be looking out for. I read the sticky on the common problems but wanted to make sure I don't miss anything.

The ad says there is "noise in rear end." so I'm hoping it's the bushings.

Are there any common rust areas?
Which gaskets go out easiest?

etc.

My '89 Supra just blew another HG so I decided it was time to move on.

Any info appreciated,
Alex

 

comon problems? lol, rust in general. thats it. like honestly, these cars are very resiliant. look for rust all over the body, under the body, under the carpet, under the hood and battery tray. especially check out those frame rails. clunking is usually bushings. a whine noise or something awkward could signify a bad rear end. but they are easy to replace if your up for it.

 

How much $$ would I probably be looking at if I do hear the 'whine'?

I'm guessing the engine is gonna be near death when I buy the car so I'm keeping my 7MGTE to rebuild and throw on in there for some real hp.

 

pfft.... these L6 motor are indestructible. near... but that would be a cool swap so keep it anyways. as for money, depends, if you do what i did and take advantage and restore the rear end with poly bushings... couple hundo. for a replacement diff, cheap, or you can replace it with a LSD rear end/internals, then a couple hundo again. really depends on what were talking about, theres alot of options.

 

I checked the price on a stock rear diff at the local U-Pull-It yard last week, and they wanted $150 for one. I think most larger self pull type yards would be much cheaper.

 

I dont' think 1979 has anything year specific for common problems. Just the usual...

 

Drive the car... listen to the noises. Cost of "whine" depends on what is whining. It could be a wheel bearing, cv or driveline u joint, loud tires, etc etc etc...

Again... drive the car, and we'll go from there. No need to speculate and guess the 32 million "what could it be?'s"

 

first off what color is the 79 that you are looking at??

 

i was told the biggest rust problem in these cars happens under the battery tray and if left in checked the battery will leak and over time eat out the complete passenger side frame and floorboards.

i have seen this once on a yard car but lickily the car i bought although there is battery leakage is recent and its just eaten the paint off.
also check the corners behind the doors near the bottom of the rocker pannels. check up under the rear bumper area too, moisture from the exhaust circulates up and can cause body rot or rust the bumper out, i can post an example of the bumper rot tommorow if need be

another thing is check all the acessories, i want able to check a few and had to go on the guys word, wish i hadnt and used it for a barginaning chip but i got it for well under what NADA books it out at for a 82k mi z car.

ask the usual of course, wrecks brands on the title, replaced major parts or major mechanical work needed or had done, i ALWAYS ask these.

pretty much what every one else is saying

 

Just got back from checking it out.

It's blue.

It's about 99% rust-free and runs good. While driving it sounded as if something solid was spinning on another solid object.

There was a leak from one of the spark plug holes and it looked as if the oil pan gasket could use a change.

I think tomorrow, after I do a compression test, I'll be buying it. (for $900)

 

i say thats a pretty decent deal if its 99% rust free runing great.

 

the grinding could be many things, if it sounds metal on metal, id say brakes are kinda screwed.

 

Bought it.

Pics:
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/car/508711320.html

Now I've gotta start troubleshooting the rear end. =/

 

doesnt sound like a big deal if its metal on metal. lift the rear in the air and get under it and start inspecting. rotate the wheels by hand mabye you can hear the noise if so its wheel bearing or brakes. unless you can hear it from the diff when rotating then inspect it. i have a write up on here about overhualing the rear subframe, though its for a 280Z not a ZX they are very similare, same diff, similare if not the same setup for mounting it.