280ZX (S130) Forums Dedicated to 79-83 ZCars

bleh, was running :p. Now its overheating

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Old 05-14-2010, 04:48 PM
  #26  
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Two things I can think of thats left besides a blown head or clogged block.
EGR is stuck open. Or you REALLY need to adjust your valves.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:02 PM
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Whats the EGR control? They seem to range from 20-50 on google. Also how can i check if its bad? ok google again, heh

Edit: Found it, ok, imma go test it. hopefully cars cold enough.

Last edited by GTH; 05-14-2010 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by GTH
Whats the EGR control? They seem to range from 20-50 on google. Also how can i check if its bad? ok google again, heh

Edit: Found it, ok, imma go test it. hopefully cars cold enough.
Have you replaced the bottom hose yet? I'd do that first as you said it's collapsing.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:58 PM
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AHHHHHHHHHHHHH ive killed it.

well prolly not but sheesh,

OK. So i just almost blew my self up. car overheated on my way home, pulled into parking spot and popped the hood. Reservoir was empty, filled it, revved to see if the new hose was collapsing, It was not. noticed i was being hit with water. OH GREAT A LEAK.

Inlet from block to rad was not secured. the clamp was off. so i reach to put it back on, it backs it self off a smidge, i take two steps back BAM, the tube comes off sending boiling water steam everything everywhere. lol. i was just out of range. sheesh.

So, i turned it off, replaced fluids, start it up. now it will not rev past 2500. it bounces from 1500-2500 with constant pressure on throttle.

Timing? Belt slipping? ACK. im a computer tech not a mechanic. this is taxing me. i dont have the money or the knowledge to get this fixed or fix it my self.

I got an idea. save a few pay checks. Pull the block. Rebuild

So, i need Brakes, tires, rebuild engine, restore interior, paint, radio (have one just need to install it) Fix hand break (does not work well and tension wire is about as tight as it gets) Restore gas tank, Add turbo (yeah right, ive got enough problems).

Should be fun, wouldn't (so much) mind if i had something to drive while i was wrenching on this thing.


Edit: yes bottom hose replaced.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:01 PM
  #30  
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lol All that happened was some coolant got into the TPS switch on the side of the throttle body, open it up and blow dry it out and the connector too. So was the EGR plugged up? I usually just take it off and look into the ports on the intake and the EGR itself.

Rebuild the car works too lol
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:04 PM
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haven't taken it apart yet, it moves when revved a bit. and also i can push on it.

There is an audible change in the fan after a min or two, maybe a fan clutch issue?
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:53 PM
  #32  
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LOL, yeah, dried TPS, works fine. well still the over heating issue.


Im thinking its fan clutch? maybe? duno. the fan is very loud on start then slows down considerably.
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:05 PM
  #33  
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ok....wtf. after my lil near death experience, and fixing the TPS. i just drove the car about 20 min and it didn't even hit half temp....

Last edited by GTH; 05-14-2010 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 09:00 PM
  #34  
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Maybe there was a blockage and the depressurization from the coolant hose blowing off knocked it lose? and if your fan sounds like a jet engine the clutch is partly of totally froze up. hence why you cant get to temp.

Dumb luck? lol
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Old 05-15-2010, 12:26 PM
  #35  
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the fan spins freely when cool, if i run it for a bit it barely gets to the second left hand line on the temp gauge. Never more then 1/4 while idling. but it should start getting harder and harder to spin the fan right? at least thats what i read about a fan clutch going out, it will start to stiffen up making the fan hard to spin?
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Old 05-15-2010, 05:47 PM
  #36  
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Ya it would be hard to spin the fan if its freezing up. uh. Might want to put your thermostat back in lol
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:33 AM
  #37  
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Toss the Tstat back in and see what happens.

Let us know!
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:15 PM
  #38  
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Well once agian, im back. this time the hose from the heater core to the block is leaking. :\.

What im wondering is can i just cap this, its summer in CA and i do not need my heater to work. If i cap the return from the core to the block will it cause any problems? The hose is cracked and i dont know how to get to it yet. so I want to cap it just to be able to drive it until i have time to take the dash out and get to the hoses.

Also anyone have a guide on how to get the core out?
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:10 PM
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Yes you can cap it. Essentially when you turn the heat off in your you are stopping the flow of coolant.

I put a hose valve in mine. I turn it on and I have heat, I close it and I have cold air. (the water **** thing for the heater core on mine leaks when I put it to cool and I didn't have time to rip it out and replace it - nor the knowledge)
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:57 PM
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Taking the core out is an SOB. you have to pull your entire dash and that meta cross brace then you can unbolt that big black box with the vacuum lines running all over it out. then you have to open that to get to the core itself. but if your just changing the lines you can pull your dash to have easier view of the lines.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:59 PM
  #41  
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well the leak is on the engine side of the firewall. When the block gets hot it creates enough pressure in the return line to leak out even with the heater off. so essentially there is no flow, just the cracked hose. The block side is easy to get off, the core not so easy to get to.

Im thinkin duct tape
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:05 PM
  #42  
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I had mine blow up. Just change it If you have small hands you can remove the kick panels and the radio center console then you can reach the lines and pull them off.

OR do what I did and take a long enough piece of hose and hook it to the heater core in and out on the engine side of the firewall lol
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:25 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by GTH
well the leak is on the engine side of the firewall. When the block gets hot it creates enough pressure in the return line to leak out even with the heater off. so essentially there is no flow, just the cracked hose. The block side is easy to get off, the core not so easy to get to.

Im thinkin duct tape
I doubt the duct tape will work. lol That is a lot of pressure. And as far as I know. Duct tape does not hold liquid well.

Can you see a cracked hose in the engine bay near the firewall? Take a good look, and see. I had one of those 2 hoses leak, that are going to the heater core before. More than once. Check those areas first. Then if that's not it. You need to take your dash apart, and find the leak. I can have the dash out in 30 minutes or less. I have gotten pretty good at it. lol Get to it, and good luck.
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:29 PM
  #44  
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If its where the hose passes through the firewall you can do what blue said and run a loop and bypass the heater core. I got lucky, when mine split at the hose clamp on the engine side of the hose, so I just cut the hose at the split and reattached and all is well.

Good luck!
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:37 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by audiofreak97
If its where the hose passes through the firewall you can do what blue said and run a loop and bypass the heater core. I got lucky, when mine split at the hose clamp on the engine side of the hose, so I just cut the hose at the split and reattached and all is well.

Good luck!
And if you do that. You might regret it, when winter comes around. And you are freezing in your Z. And your windows are frosted over. lol And yes, it happens in Arizona in the desert.
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WildmaN
And if you do that. You might regret it, when winter comes around. And you are freezing in your Z. And your windows are frosted over. lol And yes, it happens in Arizona in the desert.
Very true, but it's a quick fix if you're desperate...
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:12 PM
  #47  
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CA here, our winter is a chilly 58. lol.
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