Is there any way to do it without lifting the car and removing the right wheel?

My car sits very low in the front and I can't lift it it up because the jack barely fits under the car, I squeezed it in and when I tried to lift my car up a piece of rust broke off the car so now I'm afraid to lift the old rust bucket.

I've never bled the clutch before, but I figure it should be kind of easy...minus the fact that I can't lift my car.

So does anyone know another way to bleed the clutch? I can't keep driving the car like this without using a clutch forever.

 

Sorry homie... there's no magical way to bleed the clutch w/o getting under it. You need to open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder... which is under the car.

You're car can't be THAT low... My buddy's C5 Corvette was LOW and he just drove it up on some stacked 2x4's to raise it high enough to get a jack under it.

 

go to autozone and get some ramps or rent if u dont want to jack up.

 

2x4s work great for getting the jack under my z32. 2x6s are even better!

 

no no no, you guys, he's worried teh car is going to fall or buckle cuase its a rust bucket. get wheel ramps you can drive up them. problem solved. also... you dont have to remove teh right wheel, who ever told you that is a moron. you need patience and lucky (like me) and it will gravity bleed, or a buddy. get a little socket or wrench, loosen the nipple just a bit have a friend press the clutch pedal and hold it, then you tighten the nipple up again while he/she is still holding the pedal to the floor, once its tight, you have him pump the pedal up. make sure the master stays filled, and repeat that method until it is a steady "jet" of brake fluid that comes out and it isnt spurting (means there's air if it spurts)

 

I changed the clutch slave cylinder on mine last week. To bleed it I just ran a tube from the bleeder down into a half bottle of brake fluid, cracked the valve, then pumped the clutch pedal a few times, refilled the clutch fluid res and repeated until I couldn't hear any more air. I tightened the bleeder after and so far it's been working great. I would have been much easier with somebody to assist by pumping the pedal, then cracking the valve, but I was here alone and had to improvise.

 

^^^^ thats the exact way you get air in your lines. when you let back off the pedal, it probably sucked air back in. if you cracked it open, and filled the master, it would have eventually started leaking out in a steady trickle since the line system for the clutch is so short, not much distance to travel. gravity bleed baby

 

you don't usually get air in the lines if the line comming off the slave cyinder is submerged in fluid though, at least I haven't had that problem.

 

ahh.. i read that detail now, but still, there was air in the line prior to pumping. thats a clever idea though i spose...

i would still just do it the old fashion way

 

Well....tried lifting it...guess what happened? I now have a small mountain in my passenger's floor. And a piece of rust that fell out about the size of my hand, I'll try to get my mom's camera and post a pic for you guys to see.

I drove it out, because of an emergency. Let's just say I was really made because of all the crap that's been happening to me lately. I almost cried for my Z, and I haven't cried since I was 4...I think theres more problems with it now...it was soooo weak, did not feel torquey at all, guess it's my fault for driving it without a clutch and just shifting by rev matching. I don't know but the other day I was driving it and it smelled like turkey.

I've been having a bad week, I think I'm getting evicted by friday...but thats another story.

Thanks for the advice guys, unfortunately I have no money because I no longer have a job. This car is my DD, and it's about to die.

 

Where did you try to lift it? If you have access to a floor jack, you should only jack it up by the front cross-member or the rear differential.

If you're using the spare tire scissor jack, you should only jack it up by the jacking points indicated in the owner's manual.

Anywhere else will buckle the sheet metal. Countless frame rails, floor boards and side's have been damaged this way...

 

theres jacking points on the front and rear cross members. look at them, and you'll see what looks to be a square hunk of metal, yeah, thats teh jacking point. its all nice and flat and solid for you. if i had a picture id post it... i might actually, ill have to look in my photo bucket account


EDIT: cheer you go. circled in red is the jacking points. the front is actually the engine cradle/crossmember, just jack in the center of that. the rear point is actually a solid block of steel under the front of the diff for jacking. only places a jack should be placed on these cars. hope this helps

 

Note to self... DON'T JACK CAR UP ON THE FLOOR BOARDS.