I remember when I was looking for an 18mm bolt Napa was amazed at the size. Did you by chance check Nissan?

 

why? lol not like i can bring it to you haha. and you need the inner diameter to be 18.25mm on the crush washer? that is pretty big. try the dealership

 

Bah... you're worthless. I did try the dealer... there's one in California... he might be able to get it to me in a week.

 

And she runs again... Nice and quiet this time. Whew!

 

goooooood stuff. i bet it feels good

 

Indeed... just need to put the radiator in, fill it w/ coolant, and take it for a drive tomorrow.

 

just drive it off a cliff you'll thank me later. lol. where did you find the crush washer? or did you re-use the old one? it can be done but not always successfully.

 

break in sucks. 3500 max for the first 500 miles?

 

engine break in is 1000 miles i believe and its no red line, non synthetic oils, use a fram filter actually they are good for break in because of how well they catch crap (only reason they suck is cause in the older engines they catch **** so well they start to clog up from the crap old engines can pass and start to starve the engine of oil) and no full throttle and i doubt its 3500 max rpm probably more like 4-5k


but this isn't like a brand new motor last i checked. just a rebuilt head a new rod and crank and bearings. no big deal.

 

i guess every engine builder says it different. i've heard other things from the best engine builders i know.

 

Indeed... opinions vary on the break in, but the basics are to go easy the first 500-1000 miles, use conventional (non-synthetic) oil, and vary the RPMs. I got a lot of road to hit.

I didn't find the crush washers... I'm going without for the moment (RTV'd the inside edge of the oil cooler hook ups).

The motor runs a lot more smoothly & doesn't spit out smoke / carbon. The rings were hurting from the orig rebuild (I think the Nissan mechanic didn't do the rings properly). So I'm happy w/ the end results.

 

sweet, when that break in is done, get that fancy vid cam out and show us!!! i hated my break in period, you can feel that it wants to go, and the right foot starts going down, but brain says no. fram are only junk because they have cardboard end caps inside, take apart a penzoil, or purilator, they use thin metal, less likely to blow.

 

Good to hear you got it running again. Engine looks good. nice and clean and bright red. I agree with shady280 though, get ya some vids and let us see/hear it.

 

Nice man...glad to hear all that hard work has payed off. Looking forward to seeing some vids of your Z on the road too..

 

The car runs great minus a leaking stock fuel pump... I have a Walbro 255L to re-install, then cruise time!

 

w00t! FINALLY... after a long long wait, I was able to take my Z out for a 60 mile cruise today. I drove it like a grandma, but that's okay! At about 50mph and again at 70mph it has a funky whine due to the solid diff mount, and my freaking oil temp gauge is still whack. Oh how I've missed my Z.

 

Good to hear!

 

bout F'in time... can't wait to get mine done and we will have 2 more 2+2's on the road (idk if thats a good thing)

 

I bought those washers at a napa store two weeks ago to sell with my Z31 turbo kit.......complete......down to the banjo washers.

 

Right on man...glad to hear. You got your Z on the road again. I know what you mean by missing a Z. Been there done that. lol

 

i thought this was title the bitter end? BLEH its back.... the primer beast. haha. i might have the talon on the road today as well.

 

haha... I drove my 280ZX yesterday for the first time in maybe 2 months. It ran great!

 

Sweet... I haven't driven mine in maybe... 4 years... ;(

 

I'm REALLY thinking about selling my Z now.

I cannot freaking figure out the hesitation issue. It's just on cold start up & for the first few minutes, then rough idle. I've got the Z31T ecu so I did the diagnostic test & keep getting two codes:

21: Ignition signal to primary coil is not entered more than 10 times.

I have checked every wire for current & ohms. Everything checks. I removed my Mallory ignition & went back to stock coil & ignitor... no change. The only other thing I can think of is the CAS which I will swap this weekend.

23: The ON-OFF signal from idle switch is not entered after ignition is turned to ON.

I checked, double checked, triple checked the wiring to the TPS, all checks out. Reset the TPS... no change. Saw this video on youtube ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmgYPuJkUuY ) so I pulled apart & cleaned the TPS... no change!!!

WTF!!!!11!!11ELEVEN!!!1ONE!!!111!

 

egr stuck on?? pvc plugged? those things can trigger false codes. is the rough idle all the time or just in those first few minutes and when did the problem start.