OK, I’m taking a break from the heater to try and pick someone’s brain! The wife’s 1982 280ZX is leaking in the floorboard, it’s obviously the heater control valve (Water ****). I searched this site and the internet, I’ve found 3 different types of valves, I have the manual heat option with a valve that has a capillary tube running from it into the heater. The capillary tube seems to be attached to something as I can hear a door moving when I pull on it. I have bought a valve without the capillary tube from Nissan and am told that it will work instead of the one I have. The question I have is (1)what does the tube do (2) do I need to remove the heater and disconnect this tube as it seems to be attached or just cut it and leave it in place, or (3) just keep looking until I find one with the tube? If anyone knows for certain I’d appreciate the advice!
Thanks

 

Did you see this thread? https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=****

As for that coil tube, I honestly have no idea what it does. I've taken several apart & couldn't determine any real benefit (I don't think the Haynes / FSM mention it either). The only thing I can think of would be an extra temp monitor to allow more / less coolant to flow through the core.

You can R&R the valve w/o removing the core or dash, but it will get a lil messy, so be prepared w/ a garbage bag & towels. You could also disconnect the hoses by the head & pre-drain the coolant to make the change easier.

 

Thanks, I've pulled the dash already, I don't have a clue how anyone fits their hands up in there without doing that!! This would be the same situation as your link (I missed that one), the valve with the coil is now a non item at Nissan, one website offers it for $229.95 plus a $100.00 core charge. Nissan tech told the parts dept that the non coil version would fit and work.That still leaves me with the question of what to do about the coil, it seems stuck in the heater casing. When you changed yours do you recall what the coil was attached to?

 

The coil on the back of the entire heater / control box (right where the firewall & tranny hump meet) shouldn't be connected to anything up inside the box. It's just a coil attached to the backing plate & leads back to the water ****. I have 2 control units at home, I'll check them out tonight & take pics.

Technically you can cut those lines leading to the coil, leave it there, & install the new valve.

 

Thanks, that might help.

 

And getting up in there with the dash still in involves Very weird positions.

 

yes it dose

 

Ok Nismopick, I see what you mean about the bracket, I loosened the heater and removed the coil. Now it looks like I'll have to flush out those hoses. The water **** on the new one has a nylon bushing held in place by a retaining ring. Its all missing in the old one. Looks like I'll need to make sure its not floating in the system somewhere!

 

Good to hear!

I didn't have time to take pics last night, but let me know if you still need them.

 

Don't quote me on it, but when I spoke with a service advisor (he was a hardcore 510 guy) years ago at a Nissan dealer, he said the coil was there to help regulate the temp of the air going through the vents better.

The non-coiled one will work (it's what I have on my Z too), but the heater's range is definitely not as great as it used to be. I go from cold, to barely warm, and then straight to blazing hot. There is no "medium" setting with this new heater control valve for me.

 

I would say you are correct, looking at the coil you can tell it would work the switch by itself.