'82 fuel lines...
'82 fuel lines...
Ok, I need to know the size of the fuel lines under my '82 ZX. From the fuel pump to the metal and anything else I would need. What are the best clamps?? I need to know by the weekend so I can get it done before emmisions...
PS: I'm not going with costly overlaid fuel line (Like original) cause it's too costly. Just a good grade of fuel line this time around, to hold up to the Arizona heat during the summer...
Thanks, guys!
PS: I'm not going with costly overlaid fuel line (Like original) cause it's too costly. Just a good grade of fuel line this time around, to hold up to the Arizona heat during the summer...
Thanks, guys!
Last edited by Carl's Z; Mar 15, 2004 at 07:07 PM.
Be sure to get fuel injected fuel hosing and not carbed! lol My parts store made that mistake once and 10 miles into driving, I smell raw fuel and find that my hose had blown. The fuel injected lines will have "multi-fuel compatability" written on it. It would also be a good time to inspect the condition of your injector pintle caps. They tend to crack and break, and if that happens you will get vacuum leaks and run a bit lean.
John 82ZXT
John 82ZXT
fuel lines
Your car looks too good to become charcoal, so don't skimp on cheap lines!
Besides you don't need very much.
I just changed mine and used 5/16 and 3/8 size, but my car has been slightly modified. There is a big difference in clamps too, the ones that come on cards, like 5 to a pack are usually junk. A good parts guy can point you in the right direction.
Using the best quality Gates hoses and TRW clamps, the total cost was about $12.00, with the one exception of the hose from the fuel tank to the pump was a Nissan fitted piece at a 90 degree angle too sharp to get around, but like I said my Z has been modified.
Besides you don't need very much.
I just changed mine and used 5/16 and 3/8 size, but my car has been slightly modified. There is a big difference in clamps too, the ones that come on cards, like 5 to a pack are usually junk. A good parts guy can point you in the right direction.
Using the best quality Gates hoses and TRW clamps, the total cost was about $12.00, with the one exception of the hose from the fuel tank to the pump was a Nissan fitted piece at a 90 degree angle too sharp to get around, but like I said my Z has been modified.
Some good info here. I'm not sure what "pintle caps" are, but I recently swapped out ALL of my injectors with new ones (no rebuilds) and changed all the holders and O-rings. Actually, I chenged that hose out from the tank to the pump when I changed the pump out, and used regular hose. Just makes a big loop, and I used a spring outer cover on the hose so it wouldn't crimp up. Thanks for the heads up on the "fuel-injector line" I never would've bothered to ask...
fuel lines
The trouble with standard fuel lines is that neoprene becomes hard and brittle in contact with gasoline, go figure!, never saw why american companies insisted in using it. I've witnessed more than a few cars on fire due to split fuel lines, its pretty sad to a years worth of work go up in smoke.
Remember that the fuel injected Zs run at high fuel pressure (32 to 46lbs) depending on the model. Standard line is for 3 to 17 lbs max.
Various alcohols, methanol mainly, ruin the injector seals. I still use isopropol to remove water from the tank and so far after 20 years no problems. But the cheaper gas mixes aren't the best for the Z, as well as all the super neato scientific junk they sell us to add to our gasoline.
Remember that the fuel injected Zs run at high fuel pressure (32 to 46lbs) depending on the model. Standard line is for 3 to 17 lbs max.
Various alcohols, methanol mainly, ruin the injector seals. I still use isopropol to remove water from the tank and so far after 20 years no problems. But the cheaper gas mixes aren't the best for the Z, as well as all the super neato scientific junk they sell us to add to our gasoline.
As far as gas goes, my car seems to like Chevron the best, so I stick with it. Now and then I'll run a fuel injector cleaner from STP. Then sometimes I'll run fuel treatment. That all comes basically from what my father did when I was growing up. I'd like to run high test fuel all the time, but with Arizona in the middle of fuel price gouging, I am forced to run no better than the middle of the road fuel. Still $2.07 a gallon for that. I'll make REAL sure to get good fuel line and good clamps. I'm not a big fan of the cheap screw clamps, but will ask about a better alternative when I go shopping Saturday...
gasoline and fuel lines
Yeah, know what you mean.
Some years ago I tested all the "special" additives and wasn't impressed.
I figured that premium Chevron solved the deposit problems and was worth the difference, besides our cars were made for 92 octane.
As much as I dislike the misfits that run Standard Oil Company, the techron that comes mixed in Chevron gasoline is the best I tested, so I saved a few bucks by not buying additives, but paid it out at the pump.
BTW, don't waste your time with STP, it contains methanol and was the poorest performing products we tested at New Mexico State University.
Best oils were Kendall and Castrol
Best fuel injector cleaner as a product from a company named MegaPower
As a student money was hard at times ( OK, I was always broke) so I started running two tanks of lower grade Chevron and then the third tank was the good stuff.
I could feel the difference, probably due to the octane, but I always tried to use a full tank of premium Chevron for travels across the desert to Santa Fe or Albuquerque.
Well hope some of this helps!...Later
Some years ago I tested all the "special" additives and wasn't impressed.
I figured that premium Chevron solved the deposit problems and was worth the difference, besides our cars were made for 92 octane.
As much as I dislike the misfits that run Standard Oil Company, the techron that comes mixed in Chevron gasoline is the best I tested, so I saved a few bucks by not buying additives, but paid it out at the pump.
BTW, don't waste your time with STP, it contains methanol and was the poorest performing products we tested at New Mexico State University.
Best oils were Kendall and Castrol
Best fuel injector cleaner as a product from a company named MegaPower
As a student money was hard at times ( OK, I was always broke) so I started running two tanks of lower grade Chevron and then the third tank was the good stuff.
I could feel the difference, probably due to the octane, but I always tried to use a full tank of premium Chevron for travels across the desert to Santa Fe or Albuquerque.
Well hope some of this helps!...Later
Last edited by Z*Tech; Mar 19, 2004 at 11:11 AM.
Interesting stuff, Z*Tech. Good advice is always welcome. Anyways, I went and got fuel line today. 10' for $44.50! OUCH, my butt started hurting as I broke out the wallet for that! Was told just to double clamp it, reversing one from the other on each end. Sounded alright to me. Now I'm broke for the week, but hopefully will save a bit in fuel after this little bit of a fix....
BTW, Nissan here said 5/8" line for all except the vent hose, which is 1/2"...
BTW, Nissan here said 5/8" line for all except the vent hose, which is 1/2"...
Last edited by Carl's Z; Mar 19, 2004 at 07:16 PM.
No Pressure
OUCH!, Thats gotta hurt, but look at it this way, you'll have extra line for another project! I think you needed less than two feet for the rear of the car, unless memory fails me.
The one line from the tank to the pump is best to use the molded Nissan part.
The front end uses more, longer runs, for instance from the fuel filter to the rail, etc. So now you have the material on hand for that side too! I've never had to double clamp, but it can't hurt. You have realitive low pressure from the tank to the pump but after the pump its pretty impressive.
So now I'll be waiting to hear back if that solves the problem, and I sincerely feel it will. Got my fingers crossed!
The one line from the tank to the pump is best to use the molded Nissan part.
The front end uses more, longer runs, for instance from the fuel filter to the rail, etc. So now you have the material on hand for that side too! I've never had to double clamp, but it can't hurt. You have realitive low pressure from the tank to the pump but after the pump its pretty impressive.
So now I'll be waiting to hear back if that solves the problem, and I sincerely feel it will. Got my fingers crossed!
Yeah, I used about 3.5 feet total and they won't buy the excess back. Oh, well, at least I'm not smelling fuel anymore. Gotta wait and see what it does for mileage. I feel pretty good about the whole thing now, though. I gotta nother question, though. I'm changing out the PCV valve tomorrow, and was wondering whether to use teflon or not. Let me know ASAP!!
Thanks bunches for all the info...
Carl
Thanks bunches for all the info...
Carl
Last edited by Carl's Z; Mar 20, 2004 at 11:38 PM.
82 fuel lines
Congratulations on fixing the leak!
Theres a better product (and its cheap) called anti-seeze compound.
Various manufactures produce it, haven't found any differences.
Teflon is great for plumbing but with the high temperatures of the engine and exhaust I always use a anti-seezing compound, you can also use it on sparkplugs to help them seat and remove easier on the aluminum head, remember a very little bit goes a long, long way.
The PCV valve hangs below the heat shield and gets alot more abuse from heat than the rest of the intake manifold, then again the air moving thru the intake keeps it cooler were it screws in, so teflon paste at that point is probably fine, if you already have it. I was taught not to ever use Teflon tape on aluminum or plastic, but for the life of me I can't remember why!
BTW the 82 & 83 series Z's have always been a favorite of mine, never had much of a problem with them and they are very comfortable for touring around, especially across the desert.
Theres a better product (and its cheap) called anti-seeze compound.
Various manufactures produce it, haven't found any differences.
Teflon is great for plumbing but with the high temperatures of the engine and exhaust I always use a anti-seezing compound, you can also use it on sparkplugs to help them seat and remove easier on the aluminum head, remember a very little bit goes a long, long way.
The PCV valve hangs below the heat shield and gets alot more abuse from heat than the rest of the intake manifold, then again the air moving thru the intake keeps it cooler were it screws in, so teflon paste at that point is probably fine, if you already have it. I was taught not to ever use Teflon tape on aluminum or plastic, but for the life of me I can't remember why!
BTW the 82 & 83 series Z's have always been a favorite of mine, never had much of a problem with them and they are very comfortable for touring around, especially across the desert.
The threads are tapered and will seal with enough pressure, but it will be a bear to remove without an compound, I believe there was a sealant when new from the factory.
Still say anti-seeze is the best option, or use one wrap of the tape.
Still say anti-seeze is the best option, or use one wrap of the tape.
Well, I just got back from doing it. Just put the new one in W/O anything. Old one came out pretty easy. Old one had what looked to be a nissan emblem of sorts on it, so I'm wondering if it's original. Most likely not, I suppose. Pretty gummed up, but still "shook". Haven't noticed any difference in the 3 miles home, but I'm glad it's done, regardless. Hopefully in two years or so it won't be a bear to get out and swap again....
Thanks for all your help Z*tech. Mucho appreciato...
Carl
Thanks for all your help Z*tech. Mucho appreciato...
Carl
82 fuel lines
No problem and you can always check it for a air leak by squirting the base of it with a little carb cleaner, if it sucks in the cleaner the RPM of the engine will change letting you know.
Been years since I was in Mesa, sure enjoyed it!.....Later
Been years since I was in Mesa, sure enjoyed it!.....Later
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