Okay well figured I would post and see if anyone else has any ideas.

Ever since I did the swap the car would idle for about one minute to maybe a minute and half. Then it would slowly just die. So it really never has a chance to get warm. The only way I can get it to idle now is to have a vaccum line disconnected. The PO blocked off the EGR valve however I did here this motor run when I bought from a driving car. The idle problem doesnt change between cold or warm.

Now when I actually drive the car there is no problem runs great good boost and great power just wont idle.

Things ive tried:
CHTS, ive tried two known working ones
AFM, tried one out of a daily driver
PCV, bought one new, also put a known working one it
I now have removed my AAC and AAR to see if anything would change any and nothing.
I have got great fuel pressure.
I set the timing at 24 deg
All the vacuum lines are pretty much new. but like I said it doesnt idle unless there is a vacuum leak. Which makes me think too much fuel?

If anyone else has any ideas that would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

How about some good quality pics of your engine bay & intake manifold?

 

Okay when I get home from work tonight I will get you some good pics. I'm already in the middle of putting it back to stock becase obviously there was nothing wrong with my original equipment.

 

Timing @ 24* TDC? Is that right for a turbo??

 

^^^ Yup yup.

 

So in my process of moving things around I managed to break a few of the factory hose clamps, and seeing as its 4am I cant really go buy new ones. SO please ignore the missing clamps, this pretty much shows how they are all hooked up.

 

Uh if it's not idling I'd check the idle control valve and the AFM connector.

 

I've changed afms and checked the connection on it mulltiple time including the connection to the ecu. And have played with the idle control valve. And again it will idle when completly cold for about a minute, and then it slowly dies.

 

What is the cold rpm idle? Above 1k? I see several mis-connected vacuum lines. The main one being the AAC vacuum line connected right to the intake... that will throw off idle all by itself. The EGR and AAC are both run by their own vacuum control pump located below the AFM. It looks like that isn't hooked up at all... leading me to believe there are MANY vacuum leaks.

 

Well I did think of that intially and my boost/vac gauge reads at roughly 18hg at very little throttle, which from what I've read sounds about right. And I haven't really had a chance to look at the rpm gauge as I just got it working. However it never sounded like it was ideling very high.

Would it being connected straight to the intake cause to much vacuum to the AAC? I considered that as a option.

As I stated earlier the PO blocked off the EGR by welding the bottom of it closed. The car was also wrecked on the side of that control pump. I was impression that that was not required.