I am in the process of attempting to bleed my brakes after installing lowering springs and shocks. It took longer than expected so the lines were open for close to a month with an opportunity for air to work its way into the system. I have followed the FSM bleed procedure by bleeding the master cylinder then the front wheels and finally the rear wheels using a hand-vacuum bleeder. I am able to pull clean fluid with no air at the master cylinder, the front wheels, the rear driver wheel end, but when I get to the passenger rear wheel end, I keep drawing air. The pedal never firms up and the pistons are not clamping down in the rear. Is there something I am overlooking? I have pulled well over a quart of clean fluid through the system. I feel like I am drawing air into the system somewhere, but am not able to locate any leaks if I close all the bleeders and pump the brakes. Has anyone else had problems like this? I want to get the car off the jackstands and back on the ground to see how she looks with the new lowered look!

 

Have you tried just leaving that one RR bleeder open while pumping? That will force all air and fluid to that corner. Attach a hose to it so you can poke your head down under the car while pumping to watch for the fluid, or just have a second person to watch. Once a steady stream comes out, proceed to the "pump, hold, and close bleeder" method.

 

I have attempted to do this and am not able to get a steady stream of fluid at the RR bleeder.

 

you should always bleed the futherst point first to avoid this sort of thing. but it will take 2 doing the standard method to get it out. it may just take a bit. 3 pumps hold while you open it. repeat lots, keep the master topped up and just keep going. theres a lot of fluid missing going all the way back there. trying to get it all by yourself is kinda hard but doable. you could just leave it open all night to allow some fluid to drip. that works sometimes if you dont have the 1 on 1 time with your car.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will try the "gravity bleed" method to hopefully get most of the air out of the lines. One question regarding this method, do you need to leave all the bleeders open, or just the one that is still drawing air? Also, does it matter if the fill cap for the reservoirs are on or off?

 

leave cap on and just the one bleeder. brake fluid is well known for attracting moisture right out of the air. so make sure to bleed the brake properly once the fluid finally gets there.

 

Just replaced my brake master cylinder... Had to pump forever before the RR got steady fluid, but it stops like a champ now. Also the hand bleeders are terrible. I'd just have a second person pump the brakes for you.