ThaPimpShrimp

I don't believe I do. And the pump goes for about 5 seconds to prime the system, but for whatever reason that isn't enough to get the fuel to the engine.

After I cycle the key probably 20 times it will start up, and run fine. Just the at the initial startup there is no pressure to the engine.

NismoPick

Either there is hardly any fuel in the tank, or the pressure regulator is shot.

ThaPimpShrimp

Well there was about a quarter of a tank, so that's not the issue.

I found a lot of other issues though! Hooray!


Cylinder #5 is not firing at all. (Could be, and hopefully is the spark plug..)

The valve cover gasket is leaking quite badly..

There is a huge exhaust leak coming from the turbo area.

The exhaust that is coming out is very smokey. I assume oil rich but.. it really is not good. (Any ideas?)

I don't know if this is an issue, but someone mentioned to me the turbo is quite discolored, which could mean it's been overheating. The coolant port is disconnected. Is this something to worry about? I posted a picture of the turbo earlier.

I think the u joint (Or something with the driveshaft) is bad.. whenever I accelerate or let off the gas, the car jerks with a clanking noise.

Also, under acceleration it feels like the engine is possibly losing another cylinder.

So.. overall Monday wasn't the best of nights.

FricFrac

More likely your spark plug wires than the plug. Easy enough to check either though. Sounds like you have some ignition issues you need to get fixed first. If it feels like it's loosing another cylinder, etc that sounds like ignition woes to me...

Other than the normal culprits for oil in the exhaust don't forget about leaky seals on the turbo - another source for oil.

Discoloured and rusted is normal for a turbo. Turbos can get hot enough to glow... Pictures would help though.

ThaPimpShrimp

Well the engine and turbo have less than 12,000 miles on them since a rebuild so I would hope no seals are quite gone yet. I actually think it is the plug and not the wire because when I pulled it as it was running, the wire was sparking. The plugs might have gotten fouled from the timing being so high, it was driven about 1,000 miles in that state.

From talking to the guy at the smog shop, the readings were such that it should easily pass smog once it is running right.

What kind of things can cause the ignition issues? If you guys can give me a few things to check out and test I will do so at my next chance. I feel like it'll be worthwhile to just change the plugs and wires while I am there too, and I'll try to find the source of the exhaust leak. I am thinking it might just be the downpipe gasket.

I am mostly worried about the smoking exhaust. Are there a few obvious or common things I should check for finding the source of this?

Oh, and about the fuel pressure regulator. What kind or brand would you guys suggest. Is an aftermarket one worth it? Or should I just replace it with a stock one. This car might see some more performance upgrades in the future if it gets running right (intercooler, bigger injectors, 16psi) so I'd like to take that into account now.

I'll also be sure to take plenty of pictures while I am down there next, so you guys can have a firsthand look at what I am seeing. Maybe a video is in order? :P

Thanks again for all of your help guys.

ThaPimpShrimp

Well this Sunday I've decided to just go purchase the car from him, because he just wants it gone, and I want the car pretty badly still even though it's not in the best of condition right now.

You guys will hear some more Sunday I'm sure haha.

Any pointers on a replacement fuel pressure regulator, and the smoking exhaust?

ThaPimpShrimp

What a fun today it was today!

I bought this Z for perhaps one of the greatest deals of all time... $300.

Anyways, today I replaced the plugs. They were in terrible condition, but now all cylinders fire until you hit about 2,000 rpms and one gets dropped.

I think my power steering may be leaking, but it was hard to tell because it was getting dark. I really need to just get it up on a lift and clean all of the oil off. It's bad.

Tomorrow I am picking up a new dizzy cap, rotor, and wires. I am also planning on replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Hopefully this fixes the firing issue.

I am ordering a Fel Pro Valve Cover gasket, so I will be replacing that soon also.

I still need to diagnose the clanking when hitting or letting off the gas. I am thinking diff mount or u joint.

I'll try to get some pictures up in the next few days! Unfortunately when I get home it is dark, but hopefully by the weekend I will. Should have some nice before and after pics of when I start cleaning up the interior, paint, and engine bay.

Edit: Should I pick up an ignition coil while I am at it?

NismoPick

Two thumbs up!

Buy an MSD Blaster II coil (usually can be found cheapest on ebay).

ThaPimpShrimp

Would this do the trick?

http://autoshepherd.com/product/MSD-...D/8223?v=67358

No idea the difference between ignition coils. :P

On MSD's website they have the MSD II Coil here.. http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...24.0.0.0.0.0.0

If there is no difference I'd like to find one on the Autoshepherd site because I can get free shipping since I am already buying a few things.

FricFrac

Close - try this one from Autoshepherd instead

This is a picture of it with the MSD 6AL I'm running on my 240Z

ThaPimpShrimp

Hmm alright. Well one last shot at this. I need to rack up my super saver shipping on amazon too since I am ordering myself a Haynes manual.

http://www.amazon.com/MSD-Ignition-8...ecc_rvi_cart_2

Or, you guys can maybe get me a link.

@ Fricfrac

That's part #8207 you're referring to correct? And that one will work perfectly with my car? Sorry it just looks intimidating haha. Do I need to order anything else to go with it or is it plug and play.

ThaPimpShrimp

So I've talked to Corey (Original owner) and he says that the dizzy cap, rotor, and wires are all new. He also told me the coil is a solid state 300zx coil, so I shouldn't worry about that either.

We've decided to go O2 sensor route for now. If that doesn't help then I guess we'll have to re-evaluate and possibly backtrack haha.

ThaPimpShrimp

Replaced the O2 sensor, but no luck. Here is a video of what I'm seeing and hearing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtuBWxubQzA

I'm going to go out and read the codes on the ecu and see if anything catches my eye.

Edit:

So it turns out my ecu is throwing codes for the Throttle Position Sensor, Neutral Safety Switch, AC/Load, and the Cylinder Head Temperature sensor.

FricFrac

Well if its for an automatic it's gonna give you the Neutral Safety Switch and the AC load if you don't have an AC system....

Adjust the TPS and check your CHTS...

ThaPimpShrimp

It's a manual but for all I know the z31 ecu may be out of an automatic. And yeah not running an AC system at the moment! haha.

I'm gonna start looking through the FSM and figure out what's up with the TPS and CHTS..

ThaPimpShrimp

Turns out my CHTS was bad. Pulled the plug after I warmed the car up and nothing changed! I ordered a new one online. Can't wait to see how it runs next weekend when I get both the CHTS and FPR replaced. Stay tuned

Bleach

pimp!

ThaPimpShrimp

Hella Pimp.



So the plan for this week/upcoming weekend should be replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Valve Cover Gasket, and the CHTS. I am also planning on replacing all of the vacuum tubing, and fuel lines in the engine compartment, and cleaning off any contacts that I can find.

While the valve cover is off I figured I'd give it a nice new coat of paint, and I'll clean up the intake manifold and fuel rail area too since I'll be taking off all of the vacuum lines anyway.

If I get to it I also want to repaint the rear louvre. I already have it sanded down and cleaned off. What type of paint would you guys suggest, and what methods?

Thanks as always!

ThaPimpShrimp

Hey guys. I was pulling everything apart this morning and I was wondering if that little fan on the passenger side of the engine was really necessary. Does it do a lot? Or should I just leave it off.

Bleach

Leave it off

ThaPimpShrimp

Will do! It's ugly anyway haha.

Back to replacing the gasket!

ThaPimpShrimp

Alright guys I everything replaced today and I wish I could say everything is now working perfectly but that would be a lie

I replaced the CHTS with a brand new one and I have a bit of a confusing (at least to me haha) dilemma.

When I have the CHTS plugged in, the engine idles awfully, it revs badly and sounds like it's running super rich. When I unplug it, it's back to the way it was before in my previous video.

Here's what's happening.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5F5Q...G4vffpJoV33b-b
(Sorry if it still looks sideways, youtube has yet to process my edit to the video.)

ThaPimpShrimp

Time for an update!

I got it running pretty good. I reset the ecu and reset the timing and all is well on that side. I think I may have an exhaust leak at the manifold though.

Aside from my registration issues the only problem I am currently having is with the fuel, and starting it up.

I replace the FPR and for whatever reason it still looses pressure when it isn't running and I have to cycle the pump for 20 minutes to get it started. I can't figure out where the leak is, or maybe the new FPR is bad too (But I doubt it..).

I have noticed once that there was a bit of gas that had come off the lines back near the pump, however I can no longer replicate that leak. I did tighten all of the clamps back there just in case.

Eventually I am planning to replace all of those rear fuel lines, but if anyone else has a suggestion I would be grateful.

One more thing, do I need a special type of fuel line for the rear? The stuff that is on there now has a mesh around the outside. The line I bought just looks like vacuum tubing.

Thanks!

FricFrac

Make sure the fuel line you bought is high pressure for fuel injection and not low pressure for carbs....

Bleach

Fuel injection line = about $5 a foot
Carb fuel line = about $1 a foot