1982 280zx Turbo
10-23-2011, 02:41 PM
#26
Head Muckraker
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 9,221
Anything in the East/North East that hasn't rusted away carries a premium.
10-26-2011, 11:48 AM
#30
Soo an update on my Z.
I went on Saturday to go pick it up, and when we started it, it started pouring gas from underneath the car.
Naturally I decided to not drive it home that day haha.
I took a look at it and it seemed to be coming from some of the fuel lines in the back near the pump. There was also what looked like a filter? back there that could have been the source. It was all saturated so I couldn't tell.
But some other information on the smog. Maybe you guys can help me out. It isn't too late to back out of buying the car yet so depending on the information you give me I might haha. I am only 17 and I have a limited amount of cash to spend.
The smog paperwork said these things:
Fail On Ignition Timing: 41 BTDC
What does this mean? And what's the fix and approx. price if possible haha.
It failed the Hydrocarbon and NO sections in the 15 mph test. What can cause this? It passed the CO test. And passed HC, NO, and CO in the 25 mph test.
The results for the failed tests.
HC
MAX
138
GP
328
MEAS
173
NO (PPM)
MAX
1136
GP
2253
MEAS
2677
Also, because of the NO test, it was labeled as a Gross Polluter. What kind of repercussions does this have?
Based on your help on the Smog results I will decide whether to buy the Z. My plan to do so is to just go fix the fuel lines and starter at his place before taking it home. I could probably knock another 1-200 off the price too if this is worth it. Thanks again for all of your help!!
(Also if it is more helpful I can post a copy of the smog paperwork, and some pictures of the fuel leak)
I went on Saturday to go pick it up, and when we started it, it started pouring gas from underneath the car.
Naturally I decided to not drive it home that day haha.
I took a look at it and it seemed to be coming from some of the fuel lines in the back near the pump. There was also what looked like a filter? back there that could have been the source. It was all saturated so I couldn't tell.
But some other information on the smog. Maybe you guys can help me out. It isn't too late to back out of buying the car yet so depending on the information you give me I might haha. I am only 17 and I have a limited amount of cash to spend.
The smog paperwork said these things:
Fail On Ignition Timing: 41 BTDC
What does this mean? And what's the fix and approx. price if possible haha.
It failed the Hydrocarbon and NO sections in the 15 mph test. What can cause this? It passed the CO test. And passed HC, NO, and CO in the 25 mph test.
The results for the failed tests.
HC
MAX
138
GP
328
MEAS
173
NO (PPM)
MAX
1136
GP
2253
MEAS
2677
Also, because of the NO test, it was labeled as a Gross Polluter. What kind of repercussions does this have?
Based on your help on the Smog results I will decide whether to buy the Z. My plan to do so is to just go fix the fuel lines and starter at his place before taking it home. I could probably knock another 1-200 off the price too if this is worth it. Thanks again for all of your help!!
(Also if it is more helpful I can post a copy of the smog paperwork, and some pictures of the fuel leak)
10-26-2011, 12:41 PM
#31
ALWAYS do an oil check / change & spark plug check / change before taking a new (to you) car to smog. 
Also, who knows how old the gas is... (old gas doesn't burn well).
Timing means... well... TIMING. It's pretty basic.
41 BTDC is way advanced, and that is probably a big part of the failed smog check. Timing on the L28ET is 23 to 24 degrees BTDC. You can turn in down to about 8 to 10 degrees if it just won't pass HC.
I suggest reading Wildman's smog fail thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=fail
Also, who knows how old the gas is... (old gas doesn't burn well).Timing means... well... TIMING. It's pretty basic.
41 BTDC is way advanced, and that is probably a big part of the failed smog check. Timing on the L28ET is 23 to 24 degrees BTDC. You can turn in down to about 8 to 10 degrees if it just won't pass HC.I suggest reading Wildman's smog fail thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=fail
10-26-2011, 01:44 PM
#32
The Evil Twin
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Generally, retarding the timing will help with smog tests. The 1981 turbo says to go with 20 BTDC. Later years suggest 23 from the factory. You can likely set it at 18-20 and be good for the test. Run it at 23 for your daily use.
Adjusting timing is free. Just find yourself a timing light. Maybe used. $5-20 I think for one of those.
After your tune-up, drive the car around a lot to use up that old fuel. Put some mid grade gas in there, warm the car up, and drive it hard. For your smog test, use low octane. It ignites the easiest and burns clean for those tests.
After you pass, set your timing to 23-24 deg and run mid grade or premium fuel. If that is too expensive then back your timing to 19 or so and run lower octane fuel.
Adjusting timing is free. Just find yourself a timing light. Maybe used. $5-20 I think for one of those.
After your tune-up, drive the car around a lot to use up that old fuel. Put some mid grade gas in there, warm the car up, and drive it hard. For your smog test, use low octane. It ignites the easiest and burns clean for those tests.
After you pass, set your timing to 23-24 deg and run mid grade or premium fuel. If that is too expensive then back your timing to 19 or so and run lower octane fuel.
10-30-2011, 04:28 PM
#33
Generally, retarding the timing will help with smog tests. The 1981 turbo says to go with 20 BTDC. Later years suggest 23 from the factory. You can likely set it at 18-20 and be good for the test. Run it at 23 for your daily use.
Adjusting timing is free. Just find yourself a timing light. Maybe used. $5-20 I think for one of those.
After your tune-up, drive the car around a lot to use up that old fuel. Put some mid grade gas in there, warm the car up, and drive it hard. For your smog test, use low octane. It ignites the easiest and burns clean for those tests.
After you pass, set your timing to 23-24 deg and run mid grade or premium fuel. If that is too expensive then back your timing to 19 or so and run lower octane fuel.
Adjusting timing is free. Just find yourself a timing light. Maybe used. $5-20 I think for one of those.
After your tune-up, drive the car around a lot to use up that old fuel. Put some mid grade gas in there, warm the car up, and drive it hard. For your smog test, use low octane. It ignites the easiest and burns clean for those tests.
After you pass, set your timing to 23-24 deg and run mid grade or premium fuel. If that is too expensive then back your timing to 19 or so and run lower octane fuel.
Do you guys thing that fixing the timing and doing all of these will really drop the results enough to put them in the right spot?
ALWAYS do an oil check / change & spark plug check / change before taking a new (to you) car to smog. Also, who knows how old the gas is... (old gas doesn't burn well).
Timing means... well... TIMING. It's pretty basic. 41 BTDC is way advanced, and that is probably a big part of the failed smog check. Timing on the L28ET is 23 to 24 degrees BTDC. You can turn in down to about 8 to 10 degrees if it just won't pass HC.
I suggest reading Wildman's smog fail thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=fail
Also, who knows how old the gas is... (old gas doesn't burn well).Timing means... well... TIMING. It's pretty basic.
41 BTDC is way advanced, and that is probably a big part of the failed smog check. Timing on the L28ET is 23 to 24 degrees BTDC. You can turn in down to about 8 to 10 degrees if it just won't pass HC.I suggest reading Wildman's smog fail thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=fail
Here's an update in the process of buying the car.
I made a deal with him essentially.
I told him if he got me the parts, I would come down to his place, replace the lines and starter, and adjust everything I can to try and get it to pass smog. If we get it to pass smog I"ll be getting it off of him for 1600. If it doesn't.. well then it's his problem I guess haha. I can't afford to be buying something I can't use right now.
Edit: One more question. Are there any guides on adjusting the timing on these engines? Also this engine has the Z31 ecu upgrade, so do I have to do anything special for that?
I've never adjusted timing on any car before (I'm still a noob
) so obvious pointers may be necessary!
Last edited by ThaPimpShrimp; 10-30-2011 at 07:59 PM.
10-31-2011, 12:38 PM
#35
The Evil Twin
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
First, this video explains what timing is. I'm not sure this is new info for you...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc
In the video they talk about total timing but you can ignore that for your 280ZX. You only need to worry about timing at idle.
Specifics on the L28 distributor, you loosen the two bolts at the base of the distributor. Then snug them down gently.
With the engine still off, try to find a little notch in the front crank pully. (the pully that the alternator belt goes around) Clean that spot, maybe put a dot of white paint or white-out on it so it shows up nice and bright under the timing light. Also clean the little metal plate near the pully that is bolted to the front cover of the car. It will have a zero, possibly 10, and 20 on it. If your car is brand new, cleaning is not required
Now turn the engine on. I usually have the car warmed up so it is at low idle. 700-800 rpm
Timing light power wires go on your battery. The little 'clip' goes around any spot on spark plug #1. (the wire going to the spark plug at the front of the engine)
Pull the trigger and point the flashing light at the pully/metal plate. After you know where the timing is you may turn the distributor a tiny bit to advance or retard the timing. I sometimes carefully do this with the engine on but you may turn it off first too. Just watch out for the hot exhaust manifold and the spinning radiator fan.
When the timing is set good, turn the engine off and tighten those two bolts a bit more at the base of the distributor. They need to be snug but not torqued down super tight. You dont' want to snap small bolts or strip out threads. Remember a lot of those are into aluminum threads, not steel.
You might want to search for other videos or instructions on setting timing on a 4-cyl engine (closer style to the inline six) You can apply those same methods to your L28. Also make sure it is instructions using a distributor with spark plugs wires and not coil-on-plug or coil pack ignition. Those are a completely different setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc
In the video they talk about total timing but you can ignore that for your 280ZX. You only need to worry about timing at idle.
Specifics on the L28 distributor, you loosen the two bolts at the base of the distributor. Then snug them down gently.
With the engine still off, try to find a little notch in the front crank pully. (the pully that the alternator belt goes around) Clean that spot, maybe put a dot of white paint or white-out on it so it shows up nice and bright under the timing light. Also clean the little metal plate near the pully that is bolted to the front cover of the car. It will have a zero, possibly 10, and 20 on it. If your car is brand new, cleaning is not required
Now turn the engine on. I usually have the car warmed up so it is at low idle. 700-800 rpm
Timing light power wires go on your battery. The little 'clip' goes around any spot on spark plug #1. (the wire going to the spark plug at the front of the engine)
Pull the trigger and point the flashing light at the pully/metal plate. After you know where the timing is you may turn the distributor a tiny bit to advance or retard the timing. I sometimes carefully do this with the engine on but you may turn it off first too. Just watch out for the hot exhaust manifold and the spinning radiator fan.
When the timing is set good, turn the engine off and tighten those two bolts a bit more at the base of the distributor. They need to be snug but not torqued down super tight. You dont' want to snap small bolts or strip out threads. Remember a lot of those are into aluminum threads, not steel.
You might want to search for other videos or instructions on setting timing on a 4-cyl engine (closer style to the inline six) You can apply those same methods to your L28. Also make sure it is instructions using a distributor with spark plugs wires and not coil-on-plug or coil pack ignition. Those are a completely different setup.
Last edited by Bleach; 10-31-2011 at 12:45 PM.
11-01-2011, 12:58 AM
#36
The Emblem Thief y0!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 947
First, this video explains what timing is. I'm not sure this is new info for you...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc
In the video they talk about total timing but you can ignore that for your 280ZX. You only need to worry about timing at idle.
Specifics on the L28 distributor, you loosen the two bolts at the base of the distributor. Then snug them down gently.
With the engine still off, try to find a little notch in the front crank pully. (the pully that the alternator belt goes around) Clean that spot, maybe put a dot of white paint or white-out on it so it shows up nice and bright under the timing light. Also clean the little metal plate near the pully that is bolted to the front cover of the car. It will have a zero, possibly 10, and 20 on it. If your car is brand new, cleaning is not required
Now turn the engine on. I usually have the car warmed up so it is at low idle. 700-800 rpm
Timing light power wires go on your battery. The little 'clip' goes around any spot on spark plug #1. (the wire going to the spark plug at the front of the engine)
Pull the trigger and point the flashing light at the pully/metal plate. After you know where the timing is you may turn the distributor a tiny bit to advance or retard the timing. I sometimes carefully do this with the engine on but you may turn it off first too. Just watch out for the hot exhaust manifold and the spinning radiator fan.
When the timing is set good, turn the engine off and tighten those two bolts a bit more at the base of the distributor. They need to be snug but not torqued down super tight. You dont' want to snap small bolts or strip out threads. Remember a lot of those are into aluminum threads, not steel.
You might want to search for other videos or instructions on setting timing on a 4-cyl engine (closer style to the inline six) You can apply those same methods to your L28. Also make sure it is instructions using a distributor with spark plugs wires and not coil-on-plug or coil pack ignition. Those are a completely different setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc
In the video they talk about total timing but you can ignore that for your 280ZX. You only need to worry about timing at idle.
Specifics on the L28 distributor, you loosen the two bolts at the base of the distributor. Then snug them down gently.
With the engine still off, try to find a little notch in the front crank pully. (the pully that the alternator belt goes around) Clean that spot, maybe put a dot of white paint or white-out on it so it shows up nice and bright under the timing light. Also clean the little metal plate near the pully that is bolted to the front cover of the car. It will have a zero, possibly 10, and 20 on it. If your car is brand new, cleaning is not required
Now turn the engine on. I usually have the car warmed up so it is at low idle. 700-800 rpm
Timing light power wires go on your battery. The little 'clip' goes around any spot on spark plug #1. (the wire going to the spark plug at the front of the engine)
Pull the trigger and point the flashing light at the pully/metal plate. After you know where the timing is you may turn the distributor a tiny bit to advance or retard the timing. I sometimes carefully do this with the engine on but you may turn it off first too. Just watch out for the hot exhaust manifold and the spinning radiator fan.
When the timing is set good, turn the engine off and tighten those two bolts a bit more at the base of the distributor. They need to be snug but not torqued down super tight. You dont' want to snap small bolts or strip out threads. Remember a lot of those are into aluminum threads, not steel.
You might want to search for other videos or instructions on setting timing on a 4-cyl engine (closer style to the inline six) You can apply those same methods to your L28. Also make sure it is instructions using a distributor with spark plugs wires and not coil-on-plug or coil pack ignition. Those are a completely different setup.
11-02-2011, 06:23 PM
#37
First, this video explains what timing is. I'm not sure this is new info for you...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc
In the video they talk about total timing but you can ignore that for your 280ZX. You only need to worry about timing at idle.
Specifics on the L28 distributor, you loosen the two bolts at the base of the distributor. Then snug them down gently.
With the engine still off, try to find a little notch in the front crank pully. (the pully that the alternator belt goes around) Clean that spot, maybe put a dot of white paint or white-out on it so it shows up nice and bright under the timing light. Also clean the little metal plate near the pully that is bolted to the front cover of the car. It will have a zero, possibly 10, and 20 on it. If your car is brand new, cleaning is not required
Now turn the engine on. I usually have the car warmed up so it is at low idle. 700-800 rpm
Timing light power wires go on your battery. The little 'clip' goes around any spot on spark plug #1. (the wire going to the spark plug at the front of the engine)
Pull the trigger and point the flashing light at the pully/metal plate. After you know where the timing is you may turn the distributor a tiny bit to advance or retard the timing. I sometimes carefully do this with the engine on but you may turn it off first too. Just watch out for the hot exhaust manifold and the spinning radiator fan.
When the timing is set good, turn the engine off and tighten those two bolts a bit more at the base of the distributor. They need to be snug but not torqued down super tight. You dont' want to snap small bolts or strip out threads. Remember a lot of those are into aluminum threads, not steel.
You might want to search for other videos or instructions on setting timing on a 4-cyl engine (closer style to the inline six) You can apply those same methods to your L28. Also make sure it is instructions using a distributor with spark plugs wires and not coil-on-plug or coil pack ignition. Those are a completely different setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc
In the video they talk about total timing but you can ignore that for your 280ZX. You only need to worry about timing at idle.
Specifics on the L28 distributor, you loosen the two bolts at the base of the distributor. Then snug them down gently.
With the engine still off, try to find a little notch in the front crank pully. (the pully that the alternator belt goes around) Clean that spot, maybe put a dot of white paint or white-out on it so it shows up nice and bright under the timing light. Also clean the little metal plate near the pully that is bolted to the front cover of the car. It will have a zero, possibly 10, and 20 on it. If your car is brand new, cleaning is not required
Now turn the engine on. I usually have the car warmed up so it is at low idle. 700-800 rpm
Timing light power wires go on your battery. The little 'clip' goes around any spot on spark plug #1. (the wire going to the spark plug at the front of the engine)
Pull the trigger and point the flashing light at the pully/metal plate. After you know where the timing is you may turn the distributor a tiny bit to advance or retard the timing. I sometimes carefully do this with the engine on but you may turn it off first too. Just watch out for the hot exhaust manifold and the spinning radiator fan.
When the timing is set good, turn the engine off and tighten those two bolts a bit more at the base of the distributor. They need to be snug but not torqued down super tight. You dont' want to snap small bolts or strip out threads. Remember a lot of those are into aluminum threads, not steel.
You might want to search for other videos or instructions on setting timing on a 4-cyl engine (closer style to the inline six) You can apply those same methods to your L28. Also make sure it is instructions using a distributor with spark plugs wires and not coil-on-plug or coil pack ignition. Those are a completely different setup.
The original owner of the car told me to remember that it has the 300zx Turbo ECU and distributor upgrade, and that I have to disconnect the throttle position sensor first, or it will get way out of whack.
Is that true?
And if it is, since the timing is so screwed up already, won't the sensor already be out of whack?
11-03-2011, 09:57 AM
#38
The Evil Twin
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 9,294
Well, I would make a guess and say he is wrong... but maybe you should search for specifics on setting the timing on a Z31 (VG30ET) and see what they say.
I have a 1988 turbo ECU and I had been reading that the ECU advances an extra 3 deg at high rpm on those 16-bit ECUs and to take this into consideration for where you set your timing at idle. otherwise, I have not heard of people changing their methods for timing while using the Z31 ECU on an L28 turbo
I have a 1988 turbo ECU and I had been reading that the ECU advances an extra 3 deg at high rpm on those 16-bit ECUs and to take this into consideration for where you set your timing at idle. otherwise, I have not heard of people changing their methods for timing while using the Z31 ECU on an L28 turbo
11-05-2011, 09:46 PM
#39
11-06-2011, 03:40 PM
#40
So, I went down and replaced the starter, and the leaking fuel line today. (Planning on replacing the rest when/if I own it) and I took some pictures of things that I had some questions about. Yes I know I should get a manual, I just haven't bought one yet.
Here are some wires I found on the passenger side when I was replacing the starter, any idea what they go to, if anything?
Here is a hole I found near or possibly attached to the turbo...
The t-tops are bubbling like this on each corner. I am assuming the metal underneath is oxidizing? What can fix this and is it too harmful?
The interior is in pretty great shape except for the rear. Here is what it is currently looking like. What's the best way to go about fixing these. Finding replacements, or re-vinyling it. Whatever is underneath the vinyl is pretty warped unfortunately.
Overall it's running pretty well it seems like. No grinding of gears, engine revs well and turbo seems to be doing it's job. I am sure it needs a bit more tuning up before it's running perfectly though.
Here are some wires I found on the passenger side when I was replacing the starter, any idea what they go to, if anything?
Here is a hole I found near or possibly attached to the turbo...
The t-tops are bubbling like this on each corner. I am assuming the metal underneath is oxidizing? What can fix this and is it too harmful?
The interior is in pretty great shape except for the rear. Here is what it is currently looking like. What's the best way to go about fixing these. Finding replacements, or re-vinyling it. Whatever is underneath the vinyl is pretty warped unfortunately.
Overall it's running pretty well it seems like. No grinding of gears, engine revs well and turbo seems to be doing it's job. I am sure it needs a bit more tuning up before it's running perfectly though.
11-06-2011, 09:23 PM
#41
www.xenons130.com/reference <---- Go there right now.
It's the coolant port. That's a turbocharger from a Z31T.
Yep... oxidizing aluminum, it's common on these t-tops. Harmful? Well... eventually it will corrode all the way through, in about 100 years.
It's the coolant port. That's a turbocharger from a Z31T.
Yep... oxidizing aluminum, it's common on these t-tops. Harmful? Well... eventually it will corrode all the way through, in about 100 years.
11-07-2011, 07:05 AM
#42
www.xenons130.com/reference <---- Go there right now.
Got all of that downloaded now.Sooo.. What size turbo does the z31 have in it? Larger than the S130's? Also is it bad that the port is just open like that? Haha
Ah, oh well I won't really worry about it then.
11-07-2011, 11:07 PM
#43
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
Turbo is the same - just has water cooling. I wouldn't bother hooking it up. You want it to fail as quickly as possible so you have an excuse to upgrade. In fact I'd disconnect the oil lines as well lol
11-08-2011, 07:04 AM
#44
Sooo, should I hook up a cooling system or is it alright to just leave it.
11-08-2011, 07:05 PM
#45
From the original owner about my turbo;
The coolant ports are disconnected, because I ran water cooling for a while
and it caused the car to overheat when it got turned off.
The center section of that turbo is the Z31 *style*, but the turbo is definitely
upgraded. I remember, it was expensive. :P
http://ss.vix.com/~corey/Hybrid%20Turbo/
(Images of it before it was put in)
The compressor is a Garret T04B 0.70 A/R with an 'H' trim wheel, the center
section is water cooled and journal bearing, like the 300ZX, and the turbine
is the stock Nissan T3 with a stage I wheel.
The coolant ports are disconnected, because I ran water cooling for a while
and it caused the car to overheat when it got turned off.
The center section of that turbo is the Z31 *style*, but the turbo is definitely
upgraded. I remember, it was expensive. :P
http://ss.vix.com/~corey/Hybrid%20Turbo/
(Images of it before it was put in)
The compressor is a Garret T04B 0.70 A/R with an 'H' trim wheel, the center
section is water cooled and journal bearing, like the 300ZX, and the turbine
is the stock Nissan T3 with a stage I wheel.
11-12-2011, 04:19 PM
#47
Definitely a plus!
The plan is to go on Monday afternoon to attempt to get the Z smogged.
I've replaced the oil, plugs, and wires. I'll retard the timing back a bit before I go in, and I'll get it warmed up for a while on the freeway before we start. Oh, and it's now running on regular.
Luckily I know the guy who owns the shop, so he'll let me pre-test it.
Any other things I should check/go over/do to the car before Monday?
The plan is to go on Monday afternoon to attempt to get the Z smogged.
I've replaced the oil, plugs, and wires. I'll retard the timing back a bit before I go in, and I'll get it warmed up for a while on the freeway before we start. Oh, and it's now running on regular.
Luckily I know the guy who owns the shop, so he'll let me pre-test it.
Any other things I should check/go over/do to the car before Monday?
11-13-2011, 02:48 PM
#48
Sooo.. I need some help here guys.
Starter motor is going well, and the fuel lines are no longer leaking but I have an interesting issue.
The car had sat for a few days from running, and now for whatever reason when you try to start it, there is no fuel pressure. Fuel pump seems to be working okay. It is still making that whirring noise. After cycling the fuel pump quite a few times I eventually got it to start. At first it was very hesitant when I hit the gas, but it got better as it warmed up.
After the engine had pressure again then it ran perfectly fine. What causes the pressure to not be there when you're going to start it?
Starter motor is going well, and the fuel lines are no longer leaking but I have an interesting issue.
The car had sat for a few days from running, and now for whatever reason when you try to start it, there is no fuel pressure. Fuel pump seems to be working okay. It is still making that whirring noise. After cycling the fuel pump quite a few times I eventually got it to start. At first it was very hesitant when I hit the gas, but it got better as it warmed up.
After the engine had pressure again then it ran perfectly fine. What causes the pressure to not be there when you're going to start it?
Last edited by ThaPimpShrimp; 11-13-2011 at 08:02 PM.
11-14-2011, 11:00 AM
#49
Sorry for the multiple posts but I am going down to smog today so if anyone has any other pointers I'd appreciate it haha.
Also, could the fuel pressure regulator cause this? I'll also be checking to see if the pins on the ecu came loose.
Also, could the fuel pressure regulator cause this? I'll also be checking to see if the pins on the ecu came loose.
11-14-2011, 12:59 PM
#50
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
When you turn the ignition on you should get the fuel pump to prime and bring the system up to full presure. Do you have a fuel presure gauge running?
