I did the swap in my 82 280zxt and the car runs and drives. But I just want to make sure its running good and to its full potential. I have done lots of researching and reading but need a little help.

!. Should pin 114 be hooked up to a constant +12v (for memory)

2. I have the knock sensor disconnect. Does this but the ECU into limp mod. Is there a way to bypass it, so the ECU thinks its connected?

3. Does Z31s have batch firing? (Some say they do some say no) I would like a for sure if they do or don't.

I have checked the codes on ECU and have 6 different codes. Here they are;

1. Ignition Signal- I believe this is from me not having the -coil wire hooked up due to having a Mallory ignition. Should I hook this up?

2. Idle switch- Is this referring to the TPS? If so it has been adjusted and has new connector.

3. Neutral Switch- Its a 5 speed so shouldn't matter, right?

4. A/C- Don't have A/C

5. Detonation Sensor- Does this not being hooked up put ECU in to limp mod? Is there a way to bypass?

6. Fuel Temp Sensor- Limp mod? A way to bypass?

If anyone could shine some light on any of this, it would be helpful. Thank you

 

Most of these questions are answered in the HBZ write-up and my Z31T ecu zip file... you have both of them right?

Unless you are using an 81T harness, or entire Z31 EFI harness, the pin 114 is already hooked up. No?

Leave disconnected (280ZXT & Z31T detonation sensors are not compatible with each other). It does not put ecu into limp mode.

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Z31 Injector Service Campaign Information
Injector rewiring

No. You only need the -coil wire if using the Z31 ignitor / coil. I get this ecu code as well.

Yes. You've verified that it's set correctly using an ohm meter?

Correct. Is your Z31 ecu from an auto?



See above answer.

No, not needed. You can read about it in the Z31 FSM. It's purpose is to adjust the a/f mix if the fuel temp is above a set degree. I've thought about installing one on my rail as the FTS can unscrew from the Z31 FPR... but, meh...

 

Yes I have the write up and the Zip file. Thanks again for that I wouldn't have been able to do it with out it. My car is a 82 280zxt and harness is stock. That's why I was confused by the Zip drive says "not used" on the 82-83 harness but "fuse block" on the Z31 harness. But after looking at my car again pin 114 is hooked up and has constant 12v power.

The TPS I just got done checking it again with an ohm meter and all is good but still showing a Idle switch code.

 

Maybe I gave you an old version? I thought I had updated this a long time ago...

 

The batch fire thing has been discussed and I'm not really sure if it makes a difference or not, but I did swap the wiring. In the Z31 the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. So it will batch fire injectors 1-2-3 then 4-5-6. So technically it may be firing 2 and 5 out of order. I've never noticed an issue with this, but in theory it makes sense. So I swapped the injector wires on the plug for 2 and 5. Again I never noticed a difference.

As Nismo said the fuel temp sensor/detonation sensor shouldn't make a difference. I would go ahead and run a wire to the - terminal on the coil. I mean it can't hurt. I do think the car does run slightly better with an O2 sensor, but overall this is another spot where I noticed very little difference. Even in my old Z31 I found the O2 sensor was unhooked. After plugging it back in and confirming it worked, I found no difference.

 

So I still have an Idle switch code. With an ohm meter I have continuity with no throttle (idle) and with the slitest throttle movement no continuity. Any ideas any one?

I also want to switch injector wires 2 and 5. But this maybe harder then just switching wires. Due to the car being 30yrs old. Im sure some wires have been switch. Like 1 and 2.

The O2 is hooked up.

On another note the throttle sound is much louder and I can hear compresser surge when I release the throttle quikly. To bad my Greddy BOVs diaphram took a poop last week.

 

I still have an idle switch code.

I tried 3 different TPSs and no change. I tried 3 different ECUs but no change. I also used an OHM meter to check at the connector to the ECU. Meaning I unplugged the ECU then checked connectivity. Pin 18 and 25. I have a reading then as soon as I give it throttle no reading. So it looks like all is good.

Any one have any idea whats going on, I need some help?

 

If it's driving fine, don't worry about it.

Just to verify... this is code 23 that you are getting?

EDIT... are you checking codes AFTER driving it / depressing throttle? The ecu has to see the sensors activated.

■Turn the ignition on - LED lamps viewed through the side window alongside the selector screw should be on.
■Turn screw clockwise and LEDs will flash - red LED counts "tens", green LED counts "ones", e.g. one red flash followed by three green flashes = code 13.
■Write down the codes displayed (they will recycle, so don't worry if you miss one).
■Depress and release accelerator pedal.
■Shift transmission selector through each gear in turn, return to neutral.
■Start engine (if possible).
■Drive forwards at at least 6mph.
■Turn air-con on and off (if fitted).
■If all is well (and you have air-con that works! then code 44 will be displayed. If all is well and you do not have air-con, then 31 will be displayed.

 

So after switch out TPS with another and taking the car for a drive no more Idle code. Thanks for your help.