Webbing Removed
 

Has Anyone Taken The Webbing Out Of There Intake Manifold, Kinda Like Some N42's Ive Seen Out There.(s/c's Photos Got Me Thinkin Again) I Was Wondering If It Helps Cool Each Runner, Or Is It Even Worth It. It Would Make It Easier Access To The Header Bolts Though

It probably helps cooling in some minor way. Personally, I would prefer the open runners from the N42 to let the heat escape faster.

i think i could do it i would need at least 2 of them. one for test run on how far i could shave off. and one for the fished product.

It's possible, but whatever you use to cut it, will keep getting gummed up with aluminum chips... thus taking a long time to do it.

the webbing is suppose to dispurse heat and take it away from the intake runners...

I would agree, except there is one great fault to the L28 setup... the exhaust manifold right underneath the intake. Once the engine gets up to operating temp, it heats up that intake manifold quite a bit. If you have open runners & a good air flow (our famous NACA 280zx hood scoops), it will disperse heat a bit better.

Yeah I dont think that webbing is doing anything but hindering the dissipation of heat. The heat has no where to go but sink into the intake manifold with the webbing there. With the webbing gone the heat can pass right through and vent through the hood. Leaving a fin on either side of each runner though would help with the dissipation for a little while. Once that aluminum gets so hot though it doesn't matter cause it can only dissipate so much heat. Also, it might be a good idea to leave some sort of webbing in there to support the runners. You'll notice on the early manifolds without the webbing there is still a little near where it attaches to the head. I think the webbing is just there for ease of casting. The casting mold probably lasted longer by leaving the webbing in there. Where as with just casting the runners individually complicated the sand mold and probably didn't last as long. It's most likely just a case of what was cheaper for Nissan. I'm sure they went to the non webbed manifold temporarily cause it ran cooler, but ended up not being worth the cost.

Hmmm, so for heat dissapation, we just put a very small water mister, in the middle, on top of the intake???

Two problems with the water mister idea:

1. The water runs out
2. You'd have to pour a boat load of water on there to dissipate enough heat to make a difference

Then you're only using the intake manifold as a heat sink to transfer the heat from the exhaust manifold to the water.

You're still better off with a header blanket and open intake runners.

Ideally, header wrap in addition to the open intake runners, but the wrap will collect moisture and rust your headers into oblivion in almost no time so a header blanket is a reasonable compromise.

This will let any heat that escapes the blanket flow around the intake runners and exit the hood. A nice functional cowl induction hood with a high CFM fan would complete the puzzle.

C&R sells a 3400 CFM fan that will fit our cars... ;)

If I still have heat problems with my ZXT, that'll be the next step.

Cloging Of Tools Would Not Be A Problem For Me Nismo, The Proper Tools (ones Made For Aluminum Dont Clog) And A Product Called Boe-lube Really Helps Lube The Tools. And If You Cant Guess Its Made By The Boeing Aircraft Company In Bleaches Home Town. Ive Worked On Aircraft For Years And Love Aluminum To Death, You Just Need Special Cutting Wheels Called "green Corps" And Zing Out It Comes. Ill Post Pics When Done Later. Thanks For The Feedback Guys

If you need one to expeirement on, let me know. I have a extra 1 you can practice on.


Oh, and if your thinking of doing it and selling em, Please put me on the list of potential buyers. Depending on price and other stuff of course. Thank you

i wouldnt mine experimenting this idea. anyone got one they can spare? if it works out succesfuly you have a custom intake plenum

I have a couple extra's. I can spare 1. I get free shipping too. Let me know

man... give a manifold as an experiment... then buy it back. ;)

I think if he gives you one for free to experiment on and even ships it to you free, it would be neighborly of you to give it back to him at the same price once you've perfected the process... ;)

Lost, you never sent me your shipping address for the euro mirrors... You still want 'em?

Reply'd in the other thread. And again thank you LWW. Mani to be shipped tommorow

I Have A Spare As Well, Id Do It For 100 Bucks American Plus Shipping Both Ways. Any Takers After The First Is Done?

All right I'm interested.

Hey I Started On Removing The Webbing, The Stupid Egr Casting Is On The Bottom, So All The Webbing From The Top Side View Cant Be Removed. But It Is Going Well. Ill Post Some Pics Here Soon.

EGR?! We don' need no stinkin' EGR! :)

Of course, Grand Master L-Dub is in no way condoning the removal of any device that may interfere with the vehicles emmisions system or any modification that may result in emmisions being greater than the vehicle manufacturer inteneded or beyond legal limitations for said emmisions. Doing so is the sole responsibility of the vehicle owner and is subject to the laws of the state of residence for the operator of the vehicle.

. This disclaimer brought to you by friends of L-Dub... A not-for-profit organization.

:)

Rod.

Sha! LoL :)

Problem Is If It Gets Ground Off, Then There Are Holes In The Manifold Making A Vaccum Leak, A Really Big One.

AC TIG and some aluminum wire will take care of that hole...

Of course, you should only do this if it's allowable based on your local city, state and Federal guidelines...

Rod, you kill me! :D

Thankfully Nevada is not as bad as Cali. No under hood inspections

Hey guys! New to zdriver, but i just wanted to say sometihing about removing the webbing from the turbo inake. First of I personally think it is a bad idea b/c it actually decreases heat dissipation. Example say there are two peices metal that I need to heat up. The first peice of metal is 1 inch thick and 2 feet wide and the second is 1/2 inch thick and 1 foot wide. It would take much longer to heat up the first peice of metal becuase it has more surface area to heat up and would dissipate more heat also. Think of a heat sink in a computer. The fins allow air to cool more surface area. Just trying to say that the engineers of Datsun/Nissan were not idiots when they put the webbing on the turbo intake to compensate for the extra heat that the turbo produces. Thanks https://www.zdriver.com/forum/images...es/biggrin.gif
:D

Welcome to ZDriver! Did ya read through page 1? I guess the ideal setup would be holes in the webbing, but that don't look good!

The Idea Was To Let Heat Go Past The Manifold. My Test Is Going Well, So Buisness Is Open!!! I Can Also Leave A Small "fin" If One Wishes

As great as the heat dissipation would be it's better if the heat can just bypass the intake manifold altogether by going between the runners. Energy always takes the path of least resistance so the manifold would probably maintain a lower operating temperature if heat were allowed to bypass it as opposed to leaving the metal on there to dissipate that heat. Another thing too is that as the engine compartment heats up the air directly around the manifolds is going to get too hot to efficiently dissipate the heat away from the manifold so now the webbing is a heat sink and not a means of dissipation. The hood scoops are designed to vent heat from the engine compartment. So if you open up the intake manifold by removing the webbing then the heat from the exhaust manifold will literally be sucked right through by the vents in the hood. And another thing too: Heat can be reflected. Remove the webbing and polish the runners. Or even coat them with a ceramic coating. Then they'll look good and wont absorb nearly as much heat. I'm in the process of shaving and polishing up my manifold. It's going to be a long process as I dont dedicate a lot of time each day to the project (its frickin boring :eek: ) but once it is done I'll post some pics up. I'll leave the sales to SHADY though, thats too much for me :rolleyes: Trimming it aint so bad but polishing that sucker is a PITA.

Oh and welcome to forums ZXturbo11 :) Hope you enjoy it here. A great bunch of people here.

polishing it is not that hard. i have done 2 now. and when i find the time to get out to the shop i have fun doing it with my littel girl mary.

What are you using to do the initial grind down? ( to get rid of the texture)

It's not that its hard, it's just time consuming. I suppose if this wasn't part of whats holding me back from getting the engine back together I wouldn't be so anxious to get it done :p

I also need to get a flex shaft for my dremel. I cant get to certain areas cause the dremel body makes contact and the bit wont reach the metal when it does that.

I Hate Polishing, Its Too Finiky For Me, Im Doing The Stainless Inserts In My Bumpers, Yikes, I Got To Sand 600,800,1000,1500, The 3 Stages Of Polish. Lets Let J Be The Polishing Salesman On This One.

anyone have pics of the finished project?

Well I had my wife pick up a grinding set last night and either today or tomorrow I'll get around to really getting on this manifold. I'm really limited in my choice of tools right now so I'm going to take a little time to get mine finished. Polishing isn't so bad at first, but after a while it just sucks. And I'm not the most patient person so I'll find myself rushing and not doing as good of a job on certain areas so I'll have to go back and redo them. I also still need to get a new gasket so I can start port matching.

you can do sevral things there are certin polishing compounds you can use with buffing wheels that will take it down. or some times i use a air angel grinder with scoch brit buffing pads. a dremal w/flex shaft is a grat tool but i dont use them,they arnt to eficent in doing the job. the best tool to use is a dule bench top buffer. it looks like a bench grinder but has large buffing pads on it, and a 4 1/2 angel grinder w/buff pads, and a 7 to 9 inch polishing wheel. alot of pepole think you need to use several steps of sand paper. but all you really need is one 4000 grit. if you use the polishing compounds in the proper order (4 steps of compounds) then you only need to use the 4000 grit wet right befor you use the last compound and ther will be the best finish posibel. i love polishing, and so dose my daughter mary. i have done every thing from vale covers to 280z 5 speed trans, you wana talk about somthing hard to polish try a trans. if some one wants piks let me know i will send by email. i dont see the button to post the piks.i also did the intake manafold inside and out, timing cover oil pump, inside turbo, and im working on the turbo vale cover for darall hers a link to his polish thred https://www.zdriver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14057

Im Doing The Stainless Bumper Inserts, That Metal Is Hard. You Really Shouldnt Polish The Inside Of Intakes It Actually Looses Power, Just Do The Exaust Stuff. Reason Being Is That It Helps The Fuel Air Mixture Mix Better, If You Go To A Flowbench Guy, Thats What He Will Tell You.

hey guys i got the pieces cut out on my cars intake when i did the intake gasket last week. i had to put the heat sheild back in place because the intake seemed to be too hot to touch. i think i might put the little cooling fan back in to help with the intake temp. but i will wire it to my rads electric cooling fan so it actually does something. how hot does everyone elses intake get? can you touch it after a good hard drive?

I'd leave the heatshield in too. I haven't gotten around to removing my webbing yet. Been too busy with other parts of the car. I'll get to it when I'm ready to put the manifold back on. That fan really wont do much for you. When the car is running you've got the air from the radiator fan. When the car is in motion then you've got air coming into the engine compartment. Plus you've got the vents sucking the hot air out. Now that aux. fan is going to be sucking hot air from the engine compartment and it pushes such a low cfm that it's not likely to make much of a difference between all the other sources of air coming in. It might help with heat sink after the engine is shut down though.

ver are ze pikchores!?

haha, Im enjoying following along with this project because Im sure one way or another our canadian friend is making Z history. I will be the first to admit that when reading a progress thread I can never seem to be satisfied with the amount of pictures, I love seeing how the work is done and every step of the project. . . not criticizing of course, just saying that Im a sucker for pictures. Oh and if anyone needs test parts, I've got a wrecked NA Z in the backyard with a nearly complete motor minus that ugly fan

l-dub, you in the wrong area, why you talking batteries when i mentioned a fan?? i got a great ac delco 7 year warranty battery, it is great. i agree with j, maybee i wont put the ugy duck fan on the top. i put the heat sheild back in and it helped cool the thing. sorry about no pics, i only cut square holes as big as i could for now, i didnt hog it right to the runners yet, so it aint purty, just functional.

So the runners had the webbings on all the L28's right? Would removing that webbing help much for a N/A car? I mean obviously it'd help run a little cooler, but I imagine the biggest help would be in a turbo.

any time intake temps can go down even the slightest bit it will help performance. it would help more on a na due to the fact that it needs as much help as poss. getting a good cold charge of air into it.

Yeah a turbo is cramming hot air into the intake any ways so the turbo would probably see less benefit then an NA would.

Ok, so I had it backwards. Alright I noticed the LWW and a few people have said the N47 heads might be a bit better because they are more free flowing, but then j says that you'd do better with the P79 heads shaved down a little, then if you remove the webbing from the runners you'd see some increases right? I'll have to look into doing this.

might get rid of the webbing just for looks...or maybe cut out a pattern in there...

that boys thinkin' im not that artistic, how bout a canadian flag!!

Leave a 'Z' inbetween runners 3 and 4 ;)

canadian flag in the middle would be good...get rid of the outside webbing totaly and then leave the middle as a maple leaf or something...oh yeah!

A Maple Leaf with a Z.