soooooo..... i figured out my problem. the car isnt advancing the timing enough. when at 20 degrees when you rev it all the way up, the timing doesnt advance past teh last mark on the guage, which is about 30. should go alot more than that. the mark used to drop outta site when i floored it with the timing gun on it. so set all the way to a little over 30 degrees the car revs up just liek it should. so im curious, what controls the timing advance on the turbo cars that i should look inot. is there any vacumme control? cause i know my vacumme system was screwed up before and giving me problems. that or my car jumped timing some where along the way. i need som info. and ull have plenty of time to post up remarks since i wont be back till sunday as of this post. thanks guys

eric

 

i hope you had it on a dyno for that, as the turbo doesnt boost unless it has a load on it..

 

i dont even know what that is supposed to mean hoov. if ur refereing to boost helping advance the timing, then no, its only by lack of vacumme. thats how all things are controlled other than boost guages for reading boost. tehy go by +vacumme to 0vacumme not + boost.

 

The ecu controls the timing.

 

thats what i thought.... well then WTF. its either jumped or another ECU bites the dust.

 

hey, one question, i checked my knock sensor wires to make sure they werent in contact causing the timing to retard... but what sensors are used when the ECU decides where the timing should be advanced to? is it just teh CAS in the dizzy? or is it any mixture of the CAS reading and TPS? or more? AFM? what? im just trying to make sure im not about to re-check/advance my timing chain for no reason when it was all this time just some retard sensor. idk... this thing just really pisses me off and i want the car gone NOW but not without it running right. so nismo, anyone, input? please......!?!??!?1

 

I don't have the manual in front of me at the moment, but I would think the knock sensor, and TPS are the main sensors to affect timing.

 

thats what i thought. i check my knock sensor wires... they are connecting or grounding anywhere as far as i could tell. never had them hooked up to anything though but it never affected the car. my TPS however got fuged around with when i had the intake manifold and throttle body off. it was all loosey goosey and the setting got thrown off and i wouldnt find it to hard beyond belief to thinnk it went on the fritz.... and i dont even know how to set the TPS. manual is kinda vague on it and is more along the lines of "dont ****in touch it if you dont HAVE to"

30 bucks for a new tps isnt bad, but i really want the car gone too....

 

get a feeler gauge set and a multimeter. The TPS should give some sort of reading in ohms when the throttle is closed, and the TPS should have no continuity when the throttle is opened I believe .035 to .04mm.

 

well, i set it back to stock, the bracket was sooo dirty you could see where the bolt was resting against it, so i filled the shiney in with black sharpie made sure it just barely dissapeared then tightend it all up, but if i change the TPS to a new one ill have to do that. i saw using the ohm meter in the manual. but it was still kinda weak on details. sigh..... this sure does blow... im posting it up for sale since if taken a short cut to make it run almost 100% like it should, prolly at 80% of its potential, and while its up there continue working on it. i should have a surprise for you all by this weekend though

 

calibrating the TPS is really super easy, just takes a few tries to make sure it's set right. I forget which two pins you test with the ohmmeter, but you can tell by looking at the connector since on the Turbo models it only uses two pins. Actually I remember the Haynes guide being pretty easy to follow for calibrating the TPS.

 

right-o... so how does this theory sound to you guys. by CHTS is crap. i let the car warm up in the garage changed the TPS and revved fairly freely. got in drove and it wasnt popping and crapping on me, but the pull was just so weak.... after a few minutes, its started to improve, finally on my street on teh final stretch back home, opened her up and OMG... the power was back, 1st gear it finally spun the tires under boost. i was so proud. so now i know for a fact, its a sensor, something tempurature related.... it has to be the CHTS dont it? idk... but either way, this is revolutionary. inform me my friends.

 

Do you have a spare? Throw it in...

 

i just so happen to. but its really dark and really cold here. so im done for the night.

 

pft... wuss.

 

lol, seeing how i cant see, thats not really wuss, more like not possible. but ive been helping my dad with his car, i hardly want to touch my cars.

 

CHTS takes like 2 minutes to change. Loosen old one, pull out. Put new one in, tighten, put connector on.

 

i know i know. lol. i was just lazy, had just parked it out side when i found the one... it was super dark. garage was left open after working on the cars so it was like in the 30's in there... it was just to much... i said F'it...

 

I understand how it is. Especially with how cold it's starting to get. I haven't wanted to go outside and even mess with my timing, with it being all cold, rainy/snowy, and what not.

 

Yeah, I'm learning the weather sucks here compared to Oklahoma

Where I used to liveVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
http://www.weather.com/outlook/event...topnav_wedding

Where I live nowVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
http://www.weather.com/outlook/event...topnav_wedding

/endhijack]

 

but think of the snow you;ll miss out on

ps. i dont have a CHTS.... just a temp probe that looked exactyly the same as one until i pulled it out of the head now i have to order one....