[DJ7131]

When the mark on the crank pulley is at 0 the #1 piston isn't anywhere near tdc and the intake valve is just closing I believe. The rotor on the distributor is also not in the right place at tdc. It's about 2/5 of a turn counter clockwise from where it should be. When I got the car the spark plug wires were on the wrong positions and it only ran on 5 cylinders. At first the #4 cylinder wasn't contributing and then it started working and the #1 quit.

[NismoPick]

Your crank pulley might be toast... The outer ring is held together with a rubber damper. It is possible that it has twisted, which would throw off the timing mark.

Manually set the engine to TDC by looking thru spark plug hole #1, rotate engine by hand until piston 1 reaches TDC. If rotor is facing towards back of car, rotate engine again until piston 1 comes back up to TDC. Rotor will be facing just down from straight forward. If crank pulley timing mark is off, you will need to remove and inspect / replace it.

See also: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...-timing-40948/

[DJ7131]

I put it to tdc on the compression stroke and if you're at the front of the car the rotor is in about the 1 0'clock position. How expensive/hard/important is getting a new crank pulley put in going to be?

[NismoPick]

Originally Posted by DJ7131

I put it to tdc on the compression stroke and if you're at the front of the car the rotor is in about the 1 0'clock position.

And both cylinder 1 cam lobes were up?
Click my link above and check the cam gear markings.

Originally Posted by DJ7131

How expensive/hard/important is getting a new crank pulley put in going to be?

Cost depends on how much you can get one for... If you are on Facebook, check out the groups Datsun Parts and Needs (DPAN) and 280ZX Drivers. You can probably get a used one for free to $50. But sounds like you have other mechanical problems to check first.

[DJ7131]

Looking at the front of the engine the exhaust lobe is at about 2:30 and the intake is at about 10o'clock.

[DJ7131]

The dash is pretty much aligned with the notch for the number 2 on the cam gear.

[DJ7131]

I took the oil pump off and moved the shaft to the correct position and now cylinder #2 and #3 aren't making power.

[DJ7131]

There's a black wiring by itself coming from the air fuel meter and it has no end on it. I'm guessing this is a ground. Could this be part of why my car runs bad? Cylinder #2 and #3 aren't making power at idle. When I rev the car up with 2 and 3 plug wires on it will rev up from part throttle and die if I go full throttle. When the plug wires are off the engine dies as soon as you give it any throttle.

[NismoPick]

I suggest starting at the basics:
-Are all 6 cylinders receiving spark?
-Are all 6 injectors spraying?
-Is fuel pressure at ~30-35psi?
-Is timing at 8* (non-turbo) or 24* (turbo)?
-Have you ohm checked the CHTS at the ecu plug?

And as you've said... yes make sure all grounds are grounded.

[DJ7131]

They're all receiving spark, I learned that about the time cylinder 2 shocked me. I haven't checked the injectors but I don't think they're the problem since different cylinders start and stop working after changes to the timing are made. Don't know about fuel pressure, don't know where to check it or what tool to use. I don't know what the timing is set to, I just move the distributor until it sounds like it's running best, which still isn't very good on 4 cylinders. what is a CHTS? I've never heard of this. I hooked the ground on the air fuel meter back up and it seemed to improve how it ran at first but then it went back to normal.

[DJ7131]

It seems to run best turned clockwise more than what you can turn it with the little holding screw in.

[NismoPick]

CHTS = Cylinder Head Temp Sensor, located between spark plug 5 & 6 on P79 / P90 heads (81-83). Located in thermostat housing on the N42 / N47 heads (76-80).

Please make sure you've downloaded the FSM:
XenonZcar.com S130 Factory Service manuals

Also, you will be chasing problems forever until you get timing set correctly. Please click this link and verify your rotor is in the correct position at TDC: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...-timing-40948/

[DJ7131]

Ok so I guess I should have at least checked if the injectors were plugged in before now but I'm a dumbass. I have the oil pump out right now to get the shaft put where it needs to be so I haven't run it yet but the #2 cylinder injector was unplugged and all of them slip on and off very easily. This doesn't seem normal. I'm hoping this could be the fix to my 2 cylinders not firing.

[NismoPick]

BTW, I sell quick connector kits (n/a has 3 EV1 sensors, turbo has 2). $35 shipped.