Got some good news and some not so good news for all those who enjoy going fast

First the good news. I've successfully manipulated ECU into doing what I want it to do. By using the limitations of the stock ECU in the 280zx I was able manipulate the ATS and CHTS circuits into doing exactly what I want them to do with infinite adjustability. And the best part is the ECU stays within it's programmed parameters so as not to cause any hiccups or exceed the stock fuel and ignition systems (though I'm sure upgrades would only make the results more dramatic. The simplicity of this setup is also what makes it so great. Anyone can build one of these units. And since it's fully adjustable, as you upgrade the capabilities of the engine you can program the ECU to also respond.

Now for the bad news. I still have some testing to do to find optimal settings. And since I don't have access to a dyno (or the funds right now) I'm going to have to install an A/F gauge to help in my tuning of the system. Because of this I'm not yet ready to divulge the secret of releasing power through tuning.

Now while at this time I can't verify how much more power I was able to coax out of the ECU I can give you an example of the display of power it allowed. Now before I performed this mod spinning the tires in my Z a high RPM launch. Now from a standing start I can drop the clutch with mimimal RPM's and the thing will shred through the tires like bald tires on a rainy day. It spins all the way through first and I get a nice good chirp from second. Oh and did I mention that about half way through the powerband in first I let off to about half throttle and it managed to keep the tires spinning. Every stop sign around my house now has some nice black stripes layed out . And mind you my car is NA with very few perfomance mods other than this and advanced timing. And I ain't finished yet. my next step is going to be modding the injector pulse signal to allow for larger injectors to be utilized without the worry of flooding or over enrichment. It's just funny that no one has developed a piggy back unit for this car yet. It's really that simple.

So stay tuned and I'll be posting a full write up on this website and I'll also be producing units for those who are a little uneasy about electrical work for sell through Zspec Garage in the near future.

I'd be willing to send a free unit to anyone with dyno access to test and tune this product so that I can have some numbers to quote on this product. Only those who can legitimately secure a dyno chart on this product need bother, like some one with a dyno or knows someone with a dyno. I know dyno time is expensive and don't expect anyone to pay for it, but if you can get it done for free please let me know and the first complete unit is coming your way.

 

cool bro keep us all informed

 

can't wait to see what you've come up with

 

Here to man, fill us un when you get the bugs out!

 

I just did your AFM rebuild and it made a big difference in my 81 N/A

 

That's good to here. Now aren't you glad you didn't have to pay $120 for that?

You can send the check to ....

No seriously though, with the money you saved you better go buy your Z something nice

 

I edited my first post above. Please read the last paragraph. I also added a link to my website and changed it to say that I will only be posting the write up on THIS site. I will only be using my site to sell the product.

 

Alright new update. I've constructed a prototype unit and it's installed in my car. Before it was just a bunch of wires here and there for testing purposes. But now I've actually got a nice little unit built. I'm still waiting for a chip to come in the mail so I can integrate an A/F meter into the unit so it's easy for anyone to tune. Seeing how as it doesn't seem like anyone has dyno access, are there any willing participants with a ZX in good running order who'd be willing to install a final production unit when it's complete? I'd send it out for free, no charge no shipping in exchange for feedback. You'd keep it too. The only thing to consider here is that you have to cut three wires in the EFI harness under the dash and atleast one accessory wire for power to the unit for the install . I'll include detailed instructions on how it works and if anyone is interested please let me know. I might send out more than one unit. As far as anyone worried about destroying their motor, this is a safe mod and I'm not going to be sending it out until I've got it completely figured out. Also, you should have some knowledge of your engine too. Like knowing the sound of detonation Soldering won't be neccessary as the unit will be completely assembled and supplied with connectors. I'll eventually be posting a writeup on how to Do-It-Yourself once it's all worked out for those electrically inclined. But please, if you'd be interested in testing this unit for feedback purposes please let me know.

 

yeah,Iam definitely interested in being the "guinea pig"for the reworked AFM!I kinda caught the tail end of this project so I may need to be brought up to speed but all of this sounds a lot easier t han that turbo conversion that i've been dreading.So beam me up,Scoty!

 

Nice man...very nice...hope you're getting a wideband afr gauge...the other ones hardly work at idle! I'm very interested man, and i'd throw you some money too...for parts to get new ones to mod.

 

Well I do have imediate acess to a dyno, and my car is in good runing condition. I pay nothing for the runs on the dyno, and get prints.

 

doooood thats awsome! keep it up hey, and im very keen to hear everything about what uv done. u gotts keep us up to date lol

 

Rubber, no wideband. For a couple reasons. First, a wideband uses different voltage signals which our ECU won't be able to read. Second, is price. Those things are expensive. The area I'm interested in anyways is WOT. I'll give a little run down on what I've got so far. Basically what this "thing" does is modify a signal to the ECU to send it into closed loop mode, therefore eliminating the signal from the O2 sensor so that the ECU relies on other inputs to determine how much fuel to dump. That way we can modify those signals so the ECU dumps how much fuel we want it to without having to worry about it trying to correct this condition because of a rich condition from the O2. Then by having an A/F gauge built into the unit we can make adjustment to the unit while monitering (roughly, of course) A/F ratio through the O2 sensor. It's nothing too complicated and it's not going to add 50HP to a stock engine. And while it adds power to a NA engine, I'm sure a turbo car would see even more gains due to the extra air those motors see. This will give it more fuel to go with it. So basically, in a nutshell, it's fuel controller. It's very easy to use and only entails turning ***** to get your desired results.

So now for the responses from all you guinnea pigs. Dust, Terry, Pistolio and Rubber, I'll be PMing you guys here in a little while. I did some more testing today but I'm still waiting for the chip to come so I can get the gauge installed. I went a little overboard and fouled out my plugs and had to clean them up. I'm also going to try to intergrate some sort of throttle activation switch so it only comes in to play at WOT or atleast close to it. I think the fouling occured due to too much fuel at idle. I backed out the idle enrichment screw on the AFM and didn't have any problems after that though (If you read AFM you'll note I had the screw at full enrichment, and this extra fuel didn't help any). So what this little device does is get the mixture at the ideal "performance" ratio. Now since this is going to be different for everybody, it just makes sense to make it adjustable. I was originally going to do an install it and forget it deal but then I realized that wouldn't be such a good idea. Oh and just so everybody knows, you won't need a dyno to determine what your best setting are. That's what the meter is for. The only reason I want a dyno is so I can verify how much of a difference this thing really makes. Some companies advertise 15HP+ to the wheels on a naturally aspirated engine with similar units. Thats to the wheels, which is damn good. Hell for how much one of these things costs any HP to wheels is worth it. Let me put it this way: How much did that cold air intake cost? How much power did it give you? Well this costs a fraction of that when you do it yourself!!! I'll keep you guys updated and I'm continually coming up with ideas to make this thing better.

Oh and dust, you don't have an O2 sensor do you? Once I get the chip to build the gauge I'll get it tuned to where I think is optimal so when I send you one you wont have to make a bunch of passes to figure out whats the best setting since you cant use the O2 meter to determine mixture before you throw it on the dyno.

 

I would also be very interested. Plus, My car also has no o2 sensor.


Rod.

 

cool cool, im excited about this man. Keep in touch about this through PM's or posts.