Welp, this is my first post here.

I frequent TDF (tehdriven.com), Bimmerforums (www.bimmerforums.com), and WRXfanatics (just for the free TopGear videoz.


I'm posting here, because my stepdad has a 280 that I've been itching to get into, and finally got the OK. I don't know a ton about working on the old car, but with proper instructions, my friends and I can do the basics. I got the Haynes manual and all that Jazz.

The project: This is an N/A 79 280ZX (not worth the effort, probably, but a good project to start on). The car burnt a valve, and has been sitting since ~1996. The owner started it every other week for 5 years, but it's been sitting unstarted for about 5. It's not the best project, but it's what I've got to work with. =(

Anyway, he said he bought it with around 48k miles, and said that it wasn't driven much, so it should be around 85k.

Anyway, went down with anticipations of draining the fuel tank, oil, power steering, coolant, and brake fluid; in addition to replacing the tires and a good strong washup.

Here's what I got so far:
Went to check the fuel tank access, and was stratled by a black swarm. The friggin Brazilian/Army ants moved in. Jesus, there were a few hundred of the buggers. Note the Larvae. =(



A can of Bengal/RAID took care of most of them, and the foam covering (partially rotted out) is on the passenger seat, (antfree, ATM) and the ants I saw were all dead. I need to check next time I have a free day.



Definately going to need some new carpets. =(



The seats have a bit of rotted headliner in em. Needs a thorough vaccum/steam cleaning.



The only leak I found. Probably the passenger window. =( Any suggestions?



Couple of rust spots underhood, nothing special.



Looks like some shiny headers would go nicely there. Are there any noticable rust spots that I didn't see (that looks normal for a old header, correct?



Yeah, both sides have spotted rust on the strut towers. Problem?

(Posting now just in case something magical happens and I lose this project, I will edit and continue with photos.)

 

Since I'm limited to 10 photos...

aranoid



Pulleys have a light coating of rust. Seems to be the bane of 280's, eh?

PB blaster and a good wire bursh should fix this, or what?

Belt is tight, but dry. Not worn or cracked at all, so it'll work, but not forever.



135 HP, with a dab of torque. Civics can't touch this.



The whole thing. Got a rake, anyone? Or anyone to tell me where to look for the head identification? A guy on TDF says he's got a head off an 80 Z, and will sell it for a fair price. (cheaper than machining a valve?)



Crappy Jack and steno pad included.



Should I blame age, ants or the humidity for the disentigrated headliner? Anyone else seen this problem?

 

This item should be used sparingly.

Anyone want it, i'll sell it cheap. :rofl



I laughed because it actually says "HAZARDS"



LOW MILAGE, WILL SELL CHEAP, MUST GO FAST!
Naw. My stepdad says it should be under 100k. I'm thinking he forgets, and it's at 108.4k...



What size speakers will fit here without too much work?



The seat moves. I didn't even have to lube it up. w00t.



the only *obvious* Body rust. Underside..... I'm scared to look.

 

Lastly, anyone run a car wash?

This one needs some TLC on that side...

 

id do it, its rough, but definatly do able, how are the floors in person?

 

doesnt look too bad, the rust on the roof is kinda a turndown, but if the floors are ok then go for it.

 

i would do it but if you arent let me know if you want to sale the 120mph speed guage. good luck and remember all 280zx's are worth it, give it a good cleaning and then i think that you will find that you will want to keep it.

 

I love Z's so my answer would be do it! But, first I would see how much rust there is, by lifting car up and going under it. Also pull seats and carpet to make sure you don't see the ground when you remove the carpet. Before you spend any money, make sure that it is not eaten up with rust,( that is unless you have the talent,time and / or money to replace floor pans etc). Whether a car is too far gone is more dependent on the owners ability to repair, ability to pay or patience to drag out the project, as finding parts can be time consuming in some areas of the country. Once I determined that I had the talent, time and money to rid the car of major rust, my next step would be the engine. If the engine will run, then you have the option of putting the engine in another car with a better body to save time. That is, unless you just want to do an extensive project to remove rust. It is fun to do, I have my 4th Z, two of which I restored, but not as extensive as yours. If you do go ahead with the project, there are people here with experience to help you whenever you run into a problem. Welcome to ZDRIVER !

 

Yeah it definately looks like a good project car. And once you start fixing it up, the more you will fall in love with the 280zx. I have for almost 10 years, though I got my first Z in '00. But anyway if you need help, especially redoing your interior. I can help you out there. I just about have my interior finished. Just have a few more things to do, and then it is off to the body, and such.

All aside welcome to Zdriver, and do not hesitate to ask us for questions, and or advice. And I hope your stay is enjoyable, and knowledgeable. I know I have learned more on here, than anywhere else. Good luck to you man, and like I said go for it. If that is what you have wanted. It is definately worth it man.

 

Well, just from the pics I can say it will be a bit of work. That rust at the top of the windshield channel means there's probably more under the channel seal that you can't see. The water in the floor board behind the seat surprises me, but I'd say the pans are probably still intact. Otherwise it would have drained out. The windo seals are bad about leaking, but Black Dragon has all the weather stripping you could need as well as some other hard to find replacement parts. The engine will probably run with a good flush of the coolant system, oil, and fuel system. Check the tank and make sure it's not rusting out inside. The sides of the tank will flake and get into the lines and clog the filters. Pull the injectors, pump and pressure regulator and clean them inside and out. Replace the filters (don't forget to clean the screen filter in the pump inlet line), plugs, plugs wires and battery. Pull all the electrical connectors you can find and clean them with some contact cleaner and small knife point. Throw some dielectric grease in the connections for good measure. Once all that is done I'll bet it will crank and run. Might want to pour some marvel's mystery oil in the cylinders before you turn it over. Let it sit in there over night to free up any stuck rings. These cars are great and they are very simple to get running. Diagnosing the old EFI isn't all that easy, but it's a much simpler system than the new stuff. Good Luck!

 

Unfortunately, everything is salvagable given the motivation, knowledge or skill. In lieu of that, money will fix anything if you have enough of it.

I've seen some of the saddest examples of classic cars brought back to as new condition. It's a transformation you can't really appreciate from the current crop of "reality" shows out there today.

It can cost a LOT of money just for miscellaneous replacement parts if it's in bad shape.

If you just want a nice 10 or 20 footer, you can get them up and running with decent interior/exterior and drivelines for relatively cheap if you do a lot of the work yourself and spend quality time with your local junk yards finding replacement parts and sometimes much cheaper substitute parts from other makes/models...

If the floor pans are ok, I would take a shot at it until I run into a show stopper.

The biggest thing that worries me, is the fuel gauge reads nearly empty. Sitting empty for that long, that tank is mostly rusted out and will need professional repair or replaced.

As mentioned previously, the rust at the top of the window seal usually indicates severe rust under the trim/seal.

Good luck and welcome!

 

All right. I'll go take a harder look at it when I get a chance.

It's a chore when you work 65 hours a week. =(

 

I know the feeling. I work two jobs so its extremely difficult to get anything done.

 

Only one job, but two kids and a wife pretty much does me in. That's why my car isn't finished yet... even after 17 months...

 

Looks like a pretty good "parts car"... Good Luck!

Rod.

 

Bump. This is for sale. I've got a guy offering me 500$ for it right now.

Will include a cheap car cover.

Just fishing right now.

 

$500 for that!?!?!?!?!? Sell it and run!!!

 

Yeah. It was running before it sat.

 

Back in 81?

 

In about 02.

It's got 108,000 miles. :lol

 

take the cash and put in the contract "for sale as is no warrentee" that way he can't say you sold him a bad car. From the looks of it though i would say he knows that already. I was trying to sell mine in much much better condition and still could nto get any one to buy it

 

I had like 4 people ask me if it was for sale while I still wanted to work on it.


Solution: move to the ghetto.

 

Yeah No Joke... The Problem Here In The Getto Is They Won't Try To Buy It They Would Torch It Instead.