read through everything - holy nuts some clarification questions
 

Alright guys, I've been reading everything I could about performance for these cars but it's all over run with performance for those freaking naturally aspirated chumps (jk) and a lot of the information is scattered and not very detailed. I'm used to detailed write ups with pictures and stuff, not something that actually makes me read. :paranoid:

I just want some input on a few mods I want to do and some tips on any further mods I could do for more power. Here my little list with questions attached - sorry for being such a noob. I know, search... well, if everybody did a search and no stupid threads like mine were opened up then this would be a database not a forum. :biggrin:


- 60mm 240SX Throttle Body - Not many questions about this, I'm pretty sure I can figure this one out. Besides increase in throttle response, is this mod beneficial for an increase in power/boost?
- 225 Walbro fuel pump - Can I use stock lines for this thing up to the factory injectors? I'd assume an upgrade of some sort would be in order. I didn't search into this completely but I don't know what the factory size lines are for these cars. On my Benz they're stock 3/8" with 2 high flow fuel pumps just like this one Walbro. What do you guys recommend for increased flow here? I know this may be overkill, but I want to get these things out of the way for bigger things to come.
- Intercooler -My understanding of turbos goes as such - the shorter the piping, the better. Does anybody have any recommendations on pipe routing and what the optimal size intercooler is?
- Blow off valve - Well, I was planning on grabbing one off a early 90's eclipse/talon or whatever that car is for a cheap test bit while I save up for a better one from Greddy (maybe).. I need help with this one - where would I put this and how exactly would I modify whatever it was I need to modify to fit this?
- Manual Boost Controller - Are those NXS one's off of ebay any good? Any recommendations on manual boost controllers and any pics of your installs? I'll be adding a boost gauge for this somewhere. I was thinking an Autometer Z series since it's pretty cheap and has vacuum side in addition to the boost. Any recommendations on other gauges and how to install them?
- Injectors - Are there any higher output injectors that will go in the factory holders? If not, what injectors are there that require only minimal modification?
- ECU Swap - From a Z31, I guess. What are the benefits to the Z31 ECU swap with the MAF? Will that allow me to go more power than the stock S130 ECU would? What are the benefits of doing this swap?
- Ignition - What kind of coils are you guys running? I've seen a video on youtube with a guy running some sort of MSD coil with a different set of spark plugs, what's that all about?


That's the short list I guess. Sorry for asking questions that may be found in search, but honestly, the info is scattered around and a lot of topics filled with more off topic crap than actual info and it makes it hard for a new guy to Z's to navigate about. I've searched both here and HybridZ.

I'd appreciate the help guys, I'd appreciate even more your putting up with my noobness.

Allen
:006:

Reading = knowledge :D You're reading this aren't ya?

The 60mm TB is to ease the bottleneck of airflow, but if there are other bottlenecks, it's not going to do anything. And, like any other mod, is most efficient when combined w/ other associated mods (larger intake flow, larger exhaust...).

An upgraded fuel pump won't do anything at all on a stock system, other that probably wear out your FPR faster. The stock L28ET and associated components work fine up to ~11-12psi boost. But no, the fuel lines don't need to be changed unless you are running some monster flow injectors.

There are huge books written on turbocharging and intercoolers. Maximum Boost and Street Turbocharging are both good reads (yes... that means you have to READ. :D ). You need to do some calculations for proper IC systems, or you could just copy what other people have done... 2.5" piping w/ an NPR IC. There are TONS of pics all over the internet w/ 280zxt IC setups.

You put it on the charge pipe, and you don't "modify" it. You will most likely need a welder.

DO NOT BUY A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER. Money up and buy an electronic boost controller.

Yes, SEARCH for SVO 370cc, GN 310CC, SUPRA 320?CC

Z31T ecu & MAF swap... the Z31T has a better programmed ecu, the MAF is much better than the AFM (MAFs are still run in cars today). Benefits: more power potential, smoother running, tunable if you run NisTune.

I've got a Mallory 6AL (rev limiter) w/ MSD Blaster II coil. BIG difference on the top end.

Aww man, more reading.

Okay, what do you suggest for the intake? From what I can tell, the stock air filter is already somewhat of a CAI albeit a rather conservative one. A 3" mandrel bent tube with cone filter at the end seems like a viable option.
I've looked on ebay and found a CAI for a 280ZX, but for a NA engine. What's the difference? That's where these questions come into play with details. :biggrin:

Exhaust is covered I suppose. It's a 2.5" straight out the back.

I see and the fuel regulator is set at what, 35 or so psi? How would I go about pumping out some more fuel out of the stock injectors or are the injectors already at capacity? Any other fuel pressure regulators that can be put on without getting a custom fuel rail or am I stuck stock?

NPR? :102:

I've seen example's of intercooler setups on pictures, but the pictures are side profiles and don't really hint towards how the pipes are routed. It'd be nice to get some insight as to how and where those pipes were routed.

I'd like to mount the intercooler in front of the radiator, but I have to find out where and how to mount up a CAI prior to that.

I wasn't going to modify the valve. :paranoid:
Charge pipe? Is that the J pipe or whatever you guys call that thing?



Why's that?


These have the ability to be put on the stock "fuel rail" with minimal modification, right? I'll search non the less.

Ahh, more power potential. :biggrin:
So instead of say, 225hp power potential with the 280ZXT ECU the potential is what with the 300ZXT ECU? 240-250hp?


Ah, so what exactly have you done to get that set up? The MSD Blaster looks like a plug and play type deal with the stock harness, what's the story behind the Mallory? What's your rev limit set to? :017:


Again, sorry for having to put up with me. :icon_pidu:

The 60mm TB requires you to bore the intake manifold neck (port match). Since your car is turbocharged, you also need to use a larger charge pipe than the stock J-Pipe. Since you are going w/ an IC, 2.5" tubing is a minimum. Then use a 3" intake from the filter, to AFM, to turbo.

Yes, upgrading the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) to an adjustable one will help increase fuel flow, but it should not deviate much from stock... spiking the fuel pressure alone is not the proper way to "increase power". Use with caution.

Isuzu NPR:
http://www.008.com.au/2as_reseller/p...1220244936.jpg

Or check out some old school Saabs / Volvos in the junk yard. I've got a monster Volvo IC to install on my Z when I get around to it.

Check out my cardomain pics (click link on my signature) for tons of upgrade pics.


Manual boost controllers are cheap and unreliable. They are prone to boost creep / spikes, and are quite cumbersome to use. EBC's are very efficient, reliable, and easy to use. You can adjust the EBC while driving... a MBC you gotta get out, pop the hood, adjust and test, readjust and test... Kind of a pain if you need more boost in a hurry.

The Z31T ecu has a better fuel map than the 280zxt. You can't really pin down a number of hp increase, as it depends on the setup.

I installed the Mallory ignition and MSD coil... that's what I did to get that setup. :D I have my rev limiter set to ~6000rpm. I actually removed it for a time while doing other work on my car, and couldn't stand how it ran on the top end w/o it. It really helps w/ spark control.

I was definitely going to port the intake neck to match the 60mm TB, would be kind of pointless to do otherwise from the pictures I've looked at.

Larger charge pipe is taken care of with the whole intercooler so I should be covered there, yes? I'm definitely going to be junkyard diving.

I get you on the MBC's, but as a temporary ordeal they should be OK. I'm not really planning a boat load of power up until the IC and everything else would be sorted out.

Looks like I'm doing a Z31T ECU swap.

Any particular reason you set the limiter to 6k rpm or just felt like a comfortable spot?

Again, thanks for putting up with me.

It's your call on the MBC... if you ever get your hands on an EBC, you'll see what I mean (then I can say "I TOLD YOU SO!" :D)

I set the limiter to 6k because it pulls strong to that point, and there's no need to go over 6k because my peak hp is about 5900rpm.

lol.
Ahh, peak rpm..

Okay, so besides that, my list seems pretty OK for a small boost in power, yeah?
- 60mm throttle body - more air
- Intercooler - cooler air
- BOV - to save the turbo.. will test release to atmosphere and release back into intake after the AFM
- ECU Swap - better fuel, cleaner running, just because it's cool
- Ignition - better burning
- CAI - cooler air, power potential
- Turbo timer - just to be cool :D
Already have an exhaust done on the car so WOOPEE. may change to 3" from current 2.5" straight pipe
Searching that pop off valve right now, hopefully with some info on removal

I have to figure out a way to identify the turbo, because I don't know if it's a T3 or if its a T3/T04 Hybrid. If it's a hybrid holy crap I'm already ahead on making some power and will have to figure out my waste gate options.

You have no idea how much info is getting poured into my brain right now. Coming from NA engines to turbo engines is a whole different ball game.. I'm spent. :048:

I'm in the same boat as you BSM, I had an N/A, and am planning the parts list for a TT. It's mind boggling the differences...lol

It's pretty hectic, but I know the end result is going to be awesome! :icon_super:

WOO!

Just had a talk with my dad about my car more in detail. Turns out the turbo is definitely larger than stock, but he doesn't know what exactly it is. He says it's set around 11psi but he never cared to check.
God WTF, did he do to this thing. lol

In any case, intercooler and BOV are on the short list.

Take some pics of the turbocharger so we can see!

this mod is useless on a stock intake for anything but added throttle response,
the "added HP" some people think it gives is just the placebo of hitting full throttle sooner.

and honestly youl never notice a difference from the stock one

the bottle neck of the stock intake is the runners ID, its shit.




also: post motor pics, and lots

Damnit, looks like a intake is going to get fabbed lol.

I suppose an increase in throttle response means a bit more air getting pumped through the neck and would help increase power potential for any later mods right? I'm not really looking for high HP, just looking to get as much HP as I can for the least amount of money while maintaining reliability. Which I can and will do. :unibrow:
If I were to take off the intake manifold, which I have to do anyway to do the damn intake/exhaust gasket, would I be able to port the intake manifold for more flow? Or would that be pointless because the holes in the head won't allow for the increase in air flow?

Searching...Searching...Searching...

and i'll post as many pics as I can, my digicam battery died so you're going to have to deal with some phone pics. :)

There are guys making some major horsepower with the stock intake manifold. You can definately port and polish the manifold - obviously the intake side if you are doing the TB and the runners of course.

I've been looking into doing a manifold similar to the aftermarket ones on the RBs, etc. RT did an awesome one on HybridZ and that's pretty much the exact design I had in mind but I would do tappered runners to increase the air velocity. IIRC there is a intake manifold piece someone has machined up that you can weld your own runners/plenum to. Corky Bell's book on turbo charging actually has a very good section on intakes - seems to be hard to find any really good info on the topic. He has a few rules of thumb, etc for plenum volume vs displacement, etc...

I think I'll stick with the stock intake manifold for now, but I'll clean and port it out.

Anybody know of hand what material the intake manifold is made out of? Steel or aluminum?

Aluminum, I am pretty sure. It's real light, so I doubt it's iron.

Perfect - I'll port it, remove unnecessary bits and I have something special in store for it. :unibrow: Something cool! :icon_keel:

How absolutely necessary is the pop off valve? I get I could drill out that rivet install a stiffer spring (or stock spring with some washers) to let it pop at a higher boost, but is it really necessary? I've heard of some adjustable pop off valves, but I've also read they're discontinued. I think I could get away with just removing that and installing an external wastegate, which I want to do anyway.. Thoughts?

Yes... the intake mani is aluminum. I did a bunch of work to it on my 280zt project (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-motor-swaps-non-v8-269/l28et-s30-tucked-like-stock-only-better-pic-heavy-30516/)

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-a...76_1069835.jpg

The POV... what a co-inky-dink! I just answered that for another member: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z31-forums-8/where-hell-do-you-get-pov-now-31032/

:D

Sweet!
I really don't like that thing cluttering up the intake area. So, I just picked up a TD04 turbo AND a Garrett AiResearch Turbo. :D I won't let you guys know for how much because I think I stole them. No shaft play!

I have no idea if either will fit the Z lol.

mani is aluminum, porting the runners will bump the flow.


the valve you can plug or shim. I drilled my rivet out just enough to pop it off so it can pop back on and stuck a big ass ****in spring in there, keeps it nice and shut.


the valve has nothing to do with the wastegate tho... two totally different things.

the stock WG is an internal, take a look at your stocker and the WG actuator thats on it and youll see it.

So speaking of porting manifolds.... do you guys grind off the bumps for the screws that hold down the injectors?

cool beans.

excellent. the valve is twisted into place or is some sort of compression fit? i'd imagine i could PB blast the base of the valve and put a big old crescent wrench to remove it then fab up some sort of plug to put in its place in case i'd ever want to put it back on.. (nope :unibrow:)

that's a good question..

...and if you do.... can you use a thread sealant on the screws or a non-setting gasket material?

Grinding off the injector "bumps" wouldn't leave much for the injectors to grab on to now would it? :D Unless you want a big vacuum leak from loose injectors, I advise not to do so....

it just screws in.