my car was running great until i left it in bmore wit a friend... now it has a lack of power, it pops out of the intake and it like has this sputter/fluttery sound when you are reving or accelin... i thought it was cause one of my plugs has lost to lil screw on top piece, so i replace it.. the plugs, wires, cap rotor are all new..the air filter is new and its a CAI... i pulled it off and the car still did the same thing.. i checked the connections at my VAF and those were fine.. anybody have any suggestions.....

 

What's a "VAF" ?

Could be a vacuum leak, prob w/ CHTS (connection or actual sensor), AFM, or loose connection somewhere in there. Did your friend touch anything under the hood?

 

VAF vein(sp) air flow meter..... and i would hope he didnt... i was under there today and noticed some of my vac lines are spongy as hell and the vac line for the vac advance on the disty is all messed up, so i guess i really do just need to go in and replace all my vac lines.. i mean ill be at 200k in a few days anyhow

 

Whoa... you have a vein pressure converter setup? Post some pics of that!!! And do check all vac lines & timing. Also check you CHTS.

 

what exactly is a CHTS.. also correct me if i am wrong but the ungly AFM with a flap door is called a vein air flow meter...

 

CHTS = cylinder head temp sensor. It's on the right rear of the head between spark plug 5 & 6.

I've never heard the term "vein air flow meter" for the flap door AFM. There's a VPC (vein pressure converter)... but not a vein afm... I even googled it just to make sure.

 

any special way to check that CHTS?

 

so i was told my cam timing seems to be off by like a degree or 2... does that sound logical? my intake popping cause of the cam timing being off which i guess it does seem a lil logical since that would mean the valves arent opening at the right times

 

It could be, but I'd guess it would be ignition timing/vacuum leak before cam timing. I think you'd be having a lot more issues if your cam timing was off.

 

I don't think it's possible to have the cam "off by a degree or two." Maybe if the chain was stretched, which is quite uncommon for the L28's.

 

The AFM on our L28's is a Speed Density type...as apposed to a Mass Air Flow meter found on alot of newer cars.

 

I'm having the same issues right now, along with the car dying if I let off the throttle. I thought I had it down to a timing issue as well, but after re-setting the timing at the crank and cam and playing with the dist. timing it seems to be not so.

Could be linked to the air regulator, or your mixture. Check the tips of your plugs to see if it is running very rich or lean.

 

the car is actually running rather lean... now i know i have never bothered the mixture.. the car run jus lovely until i left it in baltimore for a week... ill change the plugs and see whats up.. maybe i need to rebuild the AFM...

 

It's possible your distributor adjusting screw has come loose and has allowed the distributor to drift a few centimeters, which would advance/retard your timing slightly. That is what happens to my car when I push the dizzy advance a bit too far, it starts to pop and backfire with a slight miss in idle.

 

i need to go check that out right now

 

well the disty wasnt the problem.... was tightly secured.. i even loosened it and played with it to see if i could get the poppin to stop... no luck... ill check the plugs when i return...

 

My car started acting that way...sort of...I had to double check all my FI connectors...sure enough, #6 was off. At least now it is back to it's normal crappy crap poopy poop shitzkys

 

[QUOTE=NismoPick]
CHTS = cylinder head temp sensor. It's on the right rear of the head between spark plug 5 & 6.


i doubted nismo befroe and got proved wrong...lol that is where i would start since mine did the same till i replaced the chts

 

You doubted me? Shame Shame!

 

There seems to be quite a few L28's with the same problem lately, I hope this group can come up with a solution soon, even the Nissan dealer can't figure it out, but then we are talking DEALER!

 

well now my car has stopped the sputtin, and its got a miss to it (plugs fouled) that came after the car started suddenly running rich.. i think everyone is right. it probably is the CHTS

 

Most dealers shops don't know what they're looking at if you pop the hood and they see an L series engine. They're too much in the mind frame of the newer cars and why the damn car won't start with a CD in the player. Most mechanics can't fathom the concept of looking just over the passenger fender to see a starter or an oil filter, let alone all 6 spark plugs...and you want them to do some old fashioned troubleshooting? Without a computer???

 

Here is one thing I recommend. Go to your autoparts store and get some seafoam. Run it through the vacuum lines. I don't know if this will work if you don't have an EGR valve, but anyway do it. It burns out as white smoke, so then that way you'll be able to see if you have any exhaust or intake leaks under your hood. I'm still not 100% positive if my leak was exhaust or intake related, but I know I have a pretty good leak going on and I've replaced damn near everything under my hood. Fuel Injectors, O2 Sensor, FPR, CHTS, TPS, AFM, Air Regulator, Ignition Coil, Ignition Module, Distributor, Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires, Plugs. I finally got my timing adjusted correctly, and re-adjusted my TPS to make it sure it was pretty much exact. All of this helped a great bit, but I couldn't figure out why my car was still running so awful until it warmed up. My guess is that the intake or exhaust manifold, whatever is leaking is leaking while cold, once it warms up the manifolds expand and close up the leak or at least almost get rid of the leak to the point that the car runs really good.

 

so i discovered today that injector #1 isnt firing...

 

hey... that will make a diff. Good find.