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Which oil for 134a Change

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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 04:26 PM
  #1  
CWHammer's Avatar
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Which oil for 134a Change

I'm getting to the point that I can do the R12 to 134a change but I'm not sure of which weight PAG to use. I can get 3oz charge cans of PAG100. Is this weight ok? How much will the system need? I hooked up a vac pump and gauges and the system seems solid. Pulled 28 inches and held. New drier gets ordered today and I hope to drain the oil from the system over the weekend.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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Where's BlueKitsune? He converted to R134a....

I did a bunch of research on this last summer, then lost interest due to all the conflicting info on R134a conversions.

You have to change o-rings... no you don't... you have to condition your o-rings... no you don't.
You have to change the dryer... no you don't...
You have to run PAG... no you have to run Ester oil...
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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I didn't change a thing and my system was already drained tho not leaking. And I just got the kit that changed the fittings and comes with a gauge and 3 cans for R12 - R134a conversions. I haven't had to refill it yet and its been 2 years now. all on stock system and seals.

I've also done this for a friends 300ZX Z32 and its still holding great.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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Did those cans have an oil additive?

See... all the R134a conversion websites say it's this huge job and you have to do everything "just right"... then you have people like Blue who say... I just filled it and it's running great.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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(Random Google link to the kit)
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._T|GRP2004A___

That what I've used every time w/o a flaw. So far on 4 different cars.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 08:00 PM
  #6  
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Is the low (charge) port the one on the passenger side by the dryer?
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Nope. thats the high side. the low port is annoyingly RIGHT on the compressor... watch your fingers while charging the system lol
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 08:28 PM
  #8  
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Thanks guys. Blue, I'm changing the drier and expansion device just 'cause the peeps I know that do HVAC say it's the right thing to do. That and it's not terribly expensive.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Ah I didn't bother to change it mainly cuz I didn't know if I could even get it let alone afford it lol
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 02:54 AM
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Unless your A/C system has been left open I wouldn't bother replacing the drier, too much moister contamination is possible when you break the seals on the original A/C system.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #11  
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I like that even better.
Old Oct 15, 2012 | 11:35 AM
  #12  
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How do you know if there is old oil from the r12 still in the system?
How do you remove it without opening the system?
Old Oct 15, 2012 | 12:03 PM
  #13  
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Unless the system has been pulled and cleaned for R134a, it's a pretty safe assumption that the R12 system oil is still in there.

You have to evacuate the system to remove the R12.
Old Oct 15, 2012 | 12:10 PM
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But does evacuate remove the oil? If not, do you have to take the compressor out to remove it? Did the Blue take the oil out before using the kit?
Old Oct 15, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #15  
NismoPick's Avatar
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Evacuating the R12 will remove the gas vapor, majority of the liquid stays in the lines.

Originally Posted by BlueKitsune
I didn't change a thing and my system was already drained tho not leaking. And I just got the kit that changed the fittings and comes with a gauge and 3 cans for R12 - R134a conversions.
I'd say he just filled it w/ R134a.
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