Hello all, new here. I have a 80 280zx with a blown motor, it is actually in very sad shape in and out. Bought it for $20.00. So the question is, I also got with the car a 240Z motor, that suposidly runs. Can the 240 motor go in the 280?? How do I deal with the fuel injection to carb issue?? Is the 240 motor the same block as the 280 motor?? If so, then I don't have to pull the trans, right??? I bought it for another project car, and a spare, because my 3000 GT, seems to all ways break down, and I hate driving the Civic. Thank you Jeremy

 

congrats on the $20 purchase!

I'm too tired to explain all the engine stuff... so I'll let others do that.

 

Welcome and congrats on the purchase...on the motor, short answer.. yes you can do it.. no its not to hard..to make it easier use the same tranny.. but basically you just dont plug in the EFI stuff.. Just pull out the whole efi system..

 

Unless your car is subject to emissions, you should just swap in the 240z with carbs.

That will be the easiest job.

I would keep the 5 speed from the ZX though.

If you are subject to emission controls that don't allow you to go to carbs, then you'll have to change that over to the EFI as well.

The easiest way to do that will be to LABEL and disconnect everything from the BLOCK including the intake and exhaust manifolds. Disconnect the clutch cylinder and the drive shaft from the back of the tranny. In one piece, pull the block, head and tranny out of the car.

Remove the intake, carbs and exhaust manifold from the 240 motor (then ship them to me. I'll PM you my address).

Mount the 5 speed to the 240z motor (you should probably put a new clutch and throw out bearing on there while you're at it and probably have the flywheel re-surfaced for good measure).

Then, drop the whole 240z assembly w/tranny back into the ZX and connect everything back up and drive away!

 

also, the 240Z motor is 2.4L and the 280ZX motor was 2.8L
You will have less power with the smaller block.

Do you know what exactly is 'blown' on the 2.8L engine?

 

Well apparently, there is no rev limiter. The guy I got the car from was doing a burn out or brake stand for almost 5 minutes straight, and said the motor just POPPED, black smoke everywhere and would not idle. Pushed it behind the garage, and just left it there. So today I took the heads off, part of the gasket was missing, running my finger nail around the gasket surface, my nail snagged on a crack, looking at the motor from the front it is in between 2 and 3 cylinder. The valves look cooked, black soot like coating, And worst is a crack on the very edge of #3 piston. The cylinder walls I could touch, have a very difinite ridge in them, Possibly from where the piston was at top position, the oddemeter is broke but it has atleast 200,000. So that motor definatly needs a new head, and valve train, new pistons, and atleast a really good bore in the cylinders, I don't think I could get away with just honing the cylinder. And that is just the top half of the engine, no telling what the rods and crank look like. And for a 20$, 25 yr old car with a very good body, no rust, no dents, the interior is garbage, the dash is cracked, seats ripped to hell, everything is dry cracked and sun faded, and a couple pounds of sand in it. So I think I'll pull the motor and try the 240 motor. If it works, then I will start putting her back together piece by piece. Since it is a desert car that sat for almost 2 years in the back yard behind a garage, windows down, I think every piece of rubber or plastic from the window seals to the interior to the suspension should be replaced. Do they still make new stuff for this car?? The wiring in the engine bay is all dry and parts of the wire sheath just flaked off when I went to remove the wires. But since I wanted a project car, I think I got one. If the 240 motor don't run or is bad then I will just try and sell the body and engine, for $ 40 bucks, double my money.

 

Oh and we do have emmisions here, just not very strict, no under hood inspection, for a car this old just a tail pipe test, but with a cat I would think I'll be okay. How good are the old carbs on a 240. I have 2 on the side of the motor. I don't know what kind, whatever came stock I think. Sorry I don't know to much about these old cars, mainly the 3000 GT's, and the 300 Z Z32's. So if my questions seem basic or have been answered before, be patient as I am reading through the old posts trying to learn more about them. It will take me a little time though. But be happy, this car did not go to the junk yard like so many have, she is safe and in very good hands.

 

And for this, we thank you. To put in my two cents, it would IMO, be a better decision to source a L28 (280zx) motor and put that in there. They can be had for really cheap cause people are always swapping them out for V8's or turbo motors. But if you must go with the L24 then it should be as simple as dropping it in. The hardest part would be rerouting the fuel lines cause you'd be running off a mechanicle pump as the stock EFI pump puts out too much pressure for a carb'd engine. Nothing to wire up so that part is simple. It should just drop right in.

 

Hey, Lost Vegaz, I'm assuming you're in Los Vegas. I'm in Utah. If you want an L28 motor, and anything else you'll need to get that car running again, just drive up here to Orem [only a 5 hour drive ] and I'll give you my motor for $50. It runs, and runs well. Just needs a headgasket.

 

can I keep the stock pump and maybe use a adjustible fuel pressure regulater for a carburaterd vehicle??

On another note, I don't really want to spend the money on the motor right now, so if the 240 motor will work, then that is good for right now. I may be moving into another house in a couple months, and if she can at least drive to the other side of town, then that is all ways better than being towed. Plus since the house I have now is only 2 car garage and 2 car driveway. I need to constantly swap the cars positions. Like right now, the 3000 gt is in the garage with a bad alternater, and right next to that is the 300 Z, with a bad water pump. So once the 3ooo gets done, I'll have to push the 280 with 4 flat tires out the way, so I can get the 3000 out, and put the 280 in. And that is a bitch since I live on a hill. And since the 300 is still in the garage, and not moving anytime soon, I'll have to be able to move the 280 while she goes through the restoration. And a running motor makes that a lot easier. Since my drive way is slanted I can't do maintenance on the 3000 or the civic. Unless it is in the garage on level ground. See the problem. And since the resto will take some time, running is better, while I track down parts for a 25yr old sports car.I'll see if I can get a camera to post pics so you all can see what 20 bucks gets you.

 

Hey dorifto, thanks man, I'll let you know, If and when I can borrow a truck. That is really cool of you to offer.

 

I'll be sure to set the motor aside for you, since I'm junking this Zed as soon before first snowfall as possible. It'll be here when you're ready for it.

Dont worry guys, I'm looking at getting another [better-condition] Zed.

-Dave-O

 

The L24 should already have the fuel pump on the block. It's just a matter of routing the fuel lines to the mechanical pump and not through the electic pump. For what it would cost you to pick up an adjustable pressure regulator you could just buy an electic pump designed for carb'd vehicles.

 

oh, that sounds like a better idea. Thank u

 

Small update, the 280's motor is out the car and WOW. I love this car all ready. Never took a motor out so easilly before. Just started un bolting and it literally all most jumped out by it self. So 280 motor is laying on the floor, beside the 240 motor. They look all most identical, except for the F.I. and carbs of course. If I was not told that 1 is 2.4 and 1 is 2.8 I would never be able to tell the difference. The 280 block is going to the recycler's in a couple days. Anyone want anything off the block?? Speak up. And since the 3000 gt is back up and running. I can devote my full attention to the Z. As for the rest of the car. Wow, the seats fell apart when I tried to remove them, the carpet I just vacumed up what was left, All the plastic trim pieces cracked when I removed them. The dash is garbage. So have to find all new trim pieces and basically new interior. The gauges were filled half way with dirt and dust. So have a very long road ahead of me. Oh and I don't know how I did not notice earlier, she is a hard top. Don't know production #'s. Rarer?? Good news no damage underneath, 0 rust any where. Got the title the other day, it says salveged. But who cares. From what I can see the suspension and crossmember and rear end and tranny mount look all original, Brushed away the dirt, the bolts look like they have never been moved, no welds anywhere. When I start body work I will find out if she has ever been repaired and the extent of any repairs. And if she has had any accidents. When I get the rest of the interior stripped I'll have a better idea of her life. Oh yeah, where do I find replacement parts for the interior. Lots of parts missing, like the storage bins and rear shock tower covers and stuff?? Well it's late. Good night

 

I don't know if it's rare or not but I would definitely have liked to have found a slick top. I don't really care for ttops. They take away from the overall sleekness of the roof. I think they look more at home on the 2+2 then the 2 seater especially though. I'm not talking functionality or anything like that. I just prefer the look without them.

Okay, bring on the hating about the slick vs. ttops

 

I like both personally. but since I have driven a slick-top more. Which is my '81 280zx. I like the t-tops better, '82 280zx. They are pretty sweet in my opinion. But I suppose if you have one type longer than the other, you will want the opposite. It is a mind trick, and all in taste. And like you were saying, about the t-tops taking away the sleekness. I can somewhat agree with you. But not about the part that t-tops belong on 2 + 2's!

 

I agree on that 2+2 thing. A slick top 2+2 is just strange looking, like a limo Z. The t-tops make the 2+2 roofline bearable.... although the Z was made to be a 2-seater.

 

While browsing around, and looking at every one pictures. I don't see any other hard tops around. Wildman says he has 1. Anyone else ?? Also getting ready to drop that motor in and start the resto. Got a Victoria Brittish catalog from a friend. Looks like I can order alot of new parts. Been looking at MSA's site too. There is a picture of the body kit that really updates the look of the car. Alot of stuff for the 280 's. Unfortunatly I need pretty much everything. Even my suspension needs work. With the motor out the car. I pushed down on the front and the shocks go back up really really slow. So they are most likely blown. So new shocks, while I am at it, order a new bushing set and drop springs. And when I brushed the dirt away from the front wind shield trim. The chrome is pitted and dented. You can see where some one used a flat black spray paint of some kind. Don't know for what, Either to hide a metal repair, or bonbo. Or maybe a scratch. Who knows. Wont find out till I strip the paint. So here is the question. Is a car in this bad shape worth trying to save. She needs everything from the wheels up. It has a auto, guess I should drop that too add new filter and new fluid. How good are the auto's ? Any issues I should be aware of ? Probably just to be on the safe side, take it to my trans guy for a re build, have the d - shaft checked, along with the diff. I have the ability to do 90 % of the work myself. Just she is in really bad shape. But the body is in tact, 0 rust. Just everything else is fubed. So before I start throwing alot of $ at her, what do you think, try to save her or let her go?

 

Keep her! Don't let her die!

I'm only scrapping my '81 because I have severe structural damage on the front right. My Zed won't even hold itself up without breaking!

I've got [okay, WILL have ] a slicktop 2+2 soon. I like the way the slicktop looks, it's a nice flow. Although the T-tops to make the car look shorter [looking at the roof, anyway]. I might actually cut the T-tops off my '81, and save them for my '82 [yeah, I'll pull a NismoPick! ].

 

hello, some more questions and stuff. I started to take the 240 motor off the pallet it came on, but I don't know where to attach a chain, to lift it. The old one since it was junk. I just wrapped it around the cam, un did the mount and trans bolts, pryed it apart fairly careful, and lifted it right out. The other motor really does not have anyplace to lift from. Just put a bolt in the block some place that has a hole and lift there ?? Any suggestions, comments, or advice will be greatly appreciated there.

And another question, how do I tell what rear end is in the car ?? I searched and the most I really could find is that early 80's had r180's and later 81's and turbo had the r200, which had the lsd. But it is a little confusing, Does anyone have a picture of a 180 and 200 ?? I am asking because when I took the rear tires off, both of them where bald. And there still is traces of rubber that got splattered onto the rear of the car. So does this car have a lsd ??

Also more of a opinion question, should I keep the car auto or make it a manual?? Keep it OG or swap the parts from another Z ??

And on a side note, I kind of was looking around, does anyone know where the paint code and interior color and options codes are ? And how to decode them ?? I ask because the driver's side door has power windows, and the passenger side does not. So how to tell what came on this mystery machine. I would like to stay as true to the OG as possible, But modern conveinces are kind of hard to pass up. Thanks for the replies and as allways keep em coming

I don't own a 80 ZX, I own a collection of parts wishing to become a 80 ZX

 

LWW, I sent you a pm. Get back to me please.

 

As far as the Diff goes, just get under the car and take a look. If the center input (where the driveshaft comes into the diff) is off center then it's the R200. If its directly in the center then its the R180. And when I say off center, you'll be able to tell just by looking at it. As far as attaching the chain to the engine: Just find a couple of larger bolt holes to attach the chain too. Two is better than one cause it helps to keep the engine upright and there's less chance of a bolt breaking or stripping out the hole if you were to use just one bolt. If you turn one of your rear wheels by hand and the other one turns in the same direction, then its got an LSD. If it turns the opposite way or not at all then it's just the open diff.

 

Right now my Z sucks. Just venting a little. Who ever designed this manifold needs a kick in the A$$. Okay feel a little better, back to work I go.


Oh LWW. I will be sending you some parts on Monday. I can't ship em all at once or my work will charge me. So they will be smaller boxes, every couple days or so. So smaller boxes more often, than a single large box is okay. I know, my work is run by not the smartest people, but it pays so

 

HMMMM, not much progress lately. The old mani is off the engine, along with the carbs. Just been mostly cleaning engine bay, Pretty sad when you need a paint scrapper to get the crap off. Engine and engine bay cleaned up pretty good Carb cleaned the mani and stuff as best as I could. Bad news though. I think I need new injectors as the old ones, all the pencils were broken or cracked, and all the hoses were cut off and replaced with new fuel line just clamped on. Should I get new injectors or try these?? Good news is the 240 block looks really good.

But I just remembered the guy I got the car and motor from said there is a different cam in there. He did not know much about it. So I would assume that it is a upgrade of some kind ?? So if it is a better cam, how will I know ?? Should I look for markings or something ?? Are there different cams for the carb setups and fuel injection ?? Does anyone know how this will affect my plans ?? I looked at the casting #'s, and it says N42 head and N42 block ?? Can this motor even be converted to fuel injection ?? I hope so as I all ready started to ship the carbs and intake mani to LWW. Anyone know anything else about this ??

I am sorry about all the questions, I tried searching and I am still in the process of reading through the old posts. Alot of good info, but it is just scattered to hell and gone. I don't think there is one post that actually stayed on track. So it is a little bit of reading. Thank you for any and all help.