Ok, so I made my own LED test light, and well blew the bulb.

Went down to the auto store told the guy what I was doing, and he showed me a kit for exactly what I'm doing.

Used the LED Fuel Kit, and every single injector "pulses".

Though it back fires ALOT!

I figured I would check the wires for the millionth time, and they're still correct.

So what now?

 

The only thing I can come up with is when I put the oil pump in I may have put it in reverse?

Because as I understand it you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right or wrong.

 

you line up the little dot on the shaft with the big DIP in teh oil pump and install with teh oil pump nozzle looking thing pointing towards the rear of teh car. you might want to check it, mine was wrong and was teh biggest problem with my car.

 

The engine has to be TDC doesn't it?

Also, does it make sense that it's the oil pump?

If there are any other ideas I'll take those before the oil b/c that thing is a bitch b/c of the sway bar.

Thanks,
wgc_3

 

its not a bitch, unbolt the sway bar from teh frame and it should move around enough to get teh oil pump out. and yes teh number one cylinder has to be at TDC... so take off teh cam cover make sure teh cam lobes are clear of teh lifters and then pear into the spark plug hole have some one rotate teh crank while you make sure its at TDC. i just went through this, makes a world of difference if it is off...

 

I figured it was when the lobes are just clear, in the spark plug hole I'm looking for the piston to be fully extended correct?

How will I know by pearing in the hole?

Sorry this may seem stupid but I don't have alot of time, and trying to make sure this is correct.

Thanks,
wgc_3

Also, if your up to a road trip! You could come down and help me with it on Monday, Dallas is only a few hours away!

 

lol, welll get a BRIGHT LED flash light and and have a buddy rotate it for you failry slow, (with cam lobes clear) and wath teh piston come into vies then go VERY slow, and watch for the first movement of down, then rotate it backwards just a hair it should be at TDC then.

 

Right on!

Thanks bro. So what time should I be expecting you?

Keep your fingers crossed that this works!

Thanks,
wgc_3

 

Snow, thank you for your input!

Now that I have a chance today to take this on, I just want someone else opinoin, would anyone else agree with what Snow, and I have came up with or does anyone else see it any differently?

Thanks,
wgc_3

 

have you tried timing the car yet? with a timing light? if you can adjust it to a proper setting, then this isnt your problem, you never removed the timing belt or head did you? if so you got teh belt on properly right? cause even a tooth or two off can make things difficult.

 

The head was removed which is what caused all of this, because the valves needed to be reseated.

The belt is brand new I ordered a new one, and all new guides. I am about 99% sure it went on correctly.

 

OK so is this correct.

A should line up with B, and D should be pointed at the rear of the car?

Thanks,
wgc_3

 

no no no... line up A with C

D points towards teh rear of the car. i think, yeah im pretty sure. lol, youll see teh holes any ways when you under there.

 

Thanks bro!

 

Ok so does this make sense?

That if cylinder one was TDC wouldn't the distributor want to fire on plug number one?


Still nothing.........

wgc_3

 

ummm... not unless its spinning. if you just put it there by hand it wont trigger.

 

No what I am saying that is if cylinder one was TDC that when I put the dis. cap on shouldn't it align with wire one?

wgc_3

 

not quite.... cause if you look at teh rotar the end is a long piece or metal not just one point, so it has all that contact area. and there for TDC should be close to teh one end on teh rotor.

 

So far what I'm getting is, that the engine will crank, the light is showing the injectors are ok, and the car will start? Or does it start then die? If it will at least start then die, have you tried pushing the accelerator some while it starts just to see if you could keep it alive? I'm wondering if maybe your Ignition Module is wonky? Also are all your spark plug wires connected correctly? You said you're getting some bad backfiring, so to me that sounds like your timing is off, or spark could be going to the wrong place.

 

Thanks for helping out duo.

A) Engine cranks fine.
B) Engine does NOT start.
C) The wires are brand new, and I've used grease to help the connection
D) The rotor is new, so is the cap.
E) The backfiring has stopped now that I've messed w/ the dis/oil rod.

So what ideas are you thinking?

Thanks,
wgc_3

 

well what did you do? right now im actually pulling my oil pump and shaft AGAIN.... so maybe ill snap some pics for you. you dont have the distributor mounted backwards do you?


and so yeah what have you done since last post and where does the car stand as of now? whats it doing? how could it back fire before if it wasnt starting?

 

Go over some of your connections, make sure the AFM is plugged in, I saw Apollo mention that he had a problem with his car and it was just because the AFM was hooked up backwards. Make sure your air regulator and lines are all hooked up.

You said the fuel pump does work right? Just because the injectors are firing doesn't necessarily mean that it's spraying fuel. Did you clean your plugs or put new plugs in? If so I'd say crank some more and see if they become fouled again at least that would tell you that fuel is getting there. You're sure that the plugs are getting spark? The only other thing I'm thinking would maybe be that your Ignition Module is pretty much on it's way out or you could be getting spark but your coil might be about crapped out and not giving a spark to combust.

My other guess would be if maybe your distributor timing is so off that it's causing the car to not start, in which case I'd say just loosen the distributor and turn it to different positions and try cranking and see if that helps at all.

Those are just some thoughts I could think of.

 

How can you mount a dis. backwards there is only one way to put it in, and the cap only goes on one way?

It's not doing anything but turning over. Just turning over.






Fuel pump is not a problem I get about 28-32 psi.

When I took the head out I left the plugs in sea foam.

The plugs I can check again to make sure they're getting a spark but I am pretty sure.

I've already tried moving the dis. I did it so much I'm afraid to burn out the starter.

All the vacuum lines go to the intake manafold.

I'll take pics to see if yall see anything.

 

Ok so went outside to make sure there was a spark and there is, to make sure the fuel was getting a current and it was.

Two things changed now that I recranked it over.

A) The exhausts faintly smells of fuel
B) One time after I tried turning it over I heard a poof not a backfire but a poof

Also, when I trun the dis. the computer sounds like its rethinking I hear this sound like you hear a desktop when it is trying to load.

The only thing not connected went to the pipes on top of the manafold which is what I told wasn't needed.

Have a look.

thanks,
wgc_3

 

I'm not going to claim to have found your problem, but I may have found a big part of your problem. It looks like you have no air regulator.

Here's a shot of my intake although it's currently off the car.


Here's yours:


If you notice I have an upper hose off my throttle body that leads to my air regulator, and this bypasses the intake for cold startups. Basically this allows extra air into the intake and increases the idle to help make the car run quicker to keep it going. It doesn't operate for long, but will make a difference. I also can't tell if you have that plugged off or not. I know that when I once disconnected the hose from the Throttle Body to the Air Regulator when testing things, my car would not even turn over. So if you don't have it plugged off you currently have a major leak that is not allowing air to even really get into the intake as it's all just coming out of that hose, which would mean the engine is trying to run purely on gas which would explain all the backfiring you got. Now if you have it plugged off, I'm not sure if it would prevent you from starting, but at a cold start you would be required to give throttle to keep it going. On my 76' my Air Regulator has taken a crap so from a cold start if I don't give it throttle my car will die. I'm not sure that this is 100% your problem, but this looks like it could be a major part of it.

As for the thing about the ECU making sounds like a desktop, I've never heard that before. I could be wrong on this, but if your ECU is making sounds like that it could mean that there's something wrong with it.