I wonder what this would effect?
#3
So the corrosion on the rotor tip doesn't look bad to you? The exhaust gasket broke when I took it off, but what may not be clearly visible is the layer of black carbon buildup from a car running too rich.
The problem I am having with the car is power loss or no power under load. Eventually the exhaust leak so bad that you could not drive the car.
My theory is that the corroded rotor caused poor spark and lots of unburnt or burning fuel was being dumped into the exhaust, eventually causing the seal between the gasket and manifold to fail.
The problem I am having with the car is power loss or no power under load. Eventually the exhaust leak so bad that you could not drive the car.
My theory is that the corroded rotor caused poor spark and lots of unburnt or burning fuel was being dumped into the exhaust, eventually causing the seal between the gasket and manifold to fail.
Last edited by Duck Ryder; 04-22-2010 at 01:30 PM.
#4
That rotor tip should be clean! I wouldn't want to see a fleck of rust on any of mine, if I did, out comes the contact cleaner and wire brush. I've had the same situation with bad gasket. Exhaust header was warped and gasket blew out in the weak area, could barely idle when first starting.
#6
Whenever you have a large amount of juice flowing through something like that, where it doesn't make continuous contact with something (even if it did) it will have a big scorch mark where ever it makes contact with another piece of metal. EVERY distributor cap and rotor that has been used will have it.
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Manaligas
FS: 240Z,260Z,280Z & 280ZX (70-83)
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