before my alternator let go, it sent very strong electrical currents throughout car and toasted a few things. first it was my radar detector, it popped and blew smoke out the sides. immediatly i unplugged it. but later my fuseable link (little fuse box next to battery) melted and snapped. radio quit. then later the alternator finally died.

now i have gotten the alternator rebuilt.
mailed out the radar
and got a wire with a fuse capsule type thing that makes it easy to swap out glass fuses.
i got that so next time it wouldnt melt the inside of the little box.

it works good except i dont know how much voltage runs through that little wire. and i dont want to fry anymore things in my car.

any suggestions or help with this is greatly appreciated! thanks!!!

 

#1: That's why they invented fuses.
#2: You were running a radar detector through an unfused power source???
#3: Radar detectors are pointless these days. HP's use radar when driving in traffic, but they use POP on & off laser on the side of the road & usually you won't get any warning before you're busted.

 

yeah i live in the country in maine, some areas theres no powerlines further north, so as far as radar goes,...its still worth having in my area, cuz it has saved me a few times, other times i just haul ***!

but does anyone know what i could put in for a fuse and or wire in that little black box next to battery? this wire is really important and i dont know what i should do about it. but ive learned the hard way that without it my car will die out on the road.

any help with my concern is greatly appreciated and very helpfull for me aswell. thanks

 

Those are fuse (fusible) links. See Haynes manual page 203.

Use a 12v inline fuse holder (Available at any car parts or car stereo store.

 

i got somethiing similar to that except plastic and smaller, it was cheap and it melted and broke when i had a 30amp fuse in it. it was running 20amps without melting or anything but they would blow within a couple miles.

i still dont know how strong of a fuse i should run in it. thats what im trying to figure out now.

 

got it all figured out, thanks for your help guys.

 

What did you figure out?

 

i just went with the oem fuseable link again, i hate how the wire is suppose to burn out tho if too much current is flowing through the link. i might switch it out later with a big fuse holder but ill see how the link works out.

so far the oem link is working just like it should, and has in the past. no issue with new one thus far.

thanks for the help. appreciate it.