which heads will work
#5
The P series heads outflow ANY of the previous heads (in stock form). On a turbo application I'd stay with the P90/a heads. You don't need any more compression but you'll want all the flow you can get. The P series heads have larger combustion chambers so a lot of the NA guys dont like to use them. But they also have the larger valves, which is a plus. There is a reason Nissan developed this head specifically for the turbo motor The P series heads had a very good quench area and are less prone to detonatin then the other heads.
And the N47 is actually one of the least desirable heads. Their exhaust flow is way too low in comparison to the intake flow. They are also prone to exhaust seat cracking more so then the other heads.
The N42 head is a great head for an NA motor.
And the N47 is actually one of the least desirable heads. Their exhaust flow is way too low in comparison to the intake flow. They are also prone to exhaust seat cracking more so then the other heads.
The N42 head is a great head for an NA motor.
Last edited by jfairladyz; 04-05-2006 at 09:02 PM.
#8
Originally Posted by hoov100zx
and nismo, it still gets me moving faster then the punks in there hondas.
#11
well i think she mighta over heated a lil bit so i think i might just pull the motor and rebuild it and make sure i didnt mess anything up too bad (i dont think it would hurt to do a rebuild considering the age of the car) does anyone have ideas where i could get a good kit? performance kit or stock kit which ever
#14
Even then, just pull the head off and check the cylinder walls. If they're not galled and has good static and leak down compression, it doesn't need rebuilt.
I've seen 250,000+ mile L motors that didn't need rebuilt and still had the original factory cross hatching on the cylinder walls...
With proper maintenance, these things were made to last forever. Remember, Mr. K wanted to build something that was as fun as the Germans and Brit's with NONE of their reliability issues.
Although that engineering was done back in the mid-60's, our L6 heritage is a beneficiary of that mentality.
I've seen 250,000+ mile L motors that didn't need rebuilt and still had the original factory cross hatching on the cylinder walls...
With proper maintenance, these things were made to last forever. Remember, Mr. K wanted to build something that was as fun as the Germans and Brit's with NONE of their reliability issues.
Although that engineering was done back in the mid-60's, our L6 heritage is a beneficiary of that mentality.
#17
Originally Posted by bradyg
how am i supposed to check the rings
#20
Originally Posted by bradyg
any one know where to get cheap rebuild kit for it
#21
Dont look for the cheapest rebuild kit. Thats asking for trouble. Look for the best rebuild kit and then try to find that kit at the lowest price. Gaskets, with the exception of the head gasket, aren't really that important. But things like rings and bearings you really don't want to go cheap (quality) on. If you can't find a good kit for the price you want then try piecing good parts together from low price retailers.
#22
Now I'm still new to alot of this, but when you say about getting the head shaved down, you mean in a same way that you'd get them shaved/resurfaced when the head gets warped? I'm thinking about looking into some of these things so I can pull a bit more power out of my N/A.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bookmarks