Finished Z31 ECU swap... but now problem...
03-23-2007, 11:33 AM
#76
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
agree^^^ and thats an uber clean turbo nismo... is it yours??? lol im gonna make my car run im gonna make my car run!!! TODAY! if i can get my dad to solder for me cause i am the sloppiest solder'er ever. lol
03-23-2007, 11:34 AM
#77
Über User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
then give it to me!
EDIT: and if your getting fuel pressure at teh right amount check your plugs if you cant tell by that, you can always take 10 mins and pull the fuel rail and see if all the injectors are spitting correctly and then just another 15 mins to put it back on. if that seems to be cool make sure you got spark, if thats cool.... idk maybe timing? akward timing can cause popping but nothing from the wastegate thats totally seperate and wont actuate until you reach boost levels.... which wont happen unless your car is running first! lol
EDIT: and if your getting fuel pressure at teh right amount check your plugs if you cant tell by that, you can always take 10 mins and pull the fuel rail and see if all the injectors are spitting correctly and then just another 15 mins to put it back on. if that seems to be cool make sure you got spark, if thats cool.... idk maybe timing? akward timing can cause popping but nothing from the wastegate thats totally seperate and wont actuate until you reach boost levels.... which wont happen unless your car is running first! lol
Last edited by snwbrderphat540; 03-23-2007 at 11:37 AM.
03-23-2007, 11:55 AM
#78
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 309
i know, all this is insane. The haynes book says it can be timing, vacuum, EGR system (haven't touched that), or valves. But it wasnt backfiring before we started the whole swap
and IF IF IF i did v8 swap, i'd turbo that badboy v8! lol
and IF IF IF i did v8 swap, i'd turbo that badboy v8! lol
03-23-2007, 12:28 PM
#80
Originally Posted by xtreme 2
ok, not the wastegate then... what's the canister on the far right of the intake manifold then? that popped and a puff of smoke came up from it... car hasn't started correctly since...
I believe you are talking about the POV (pop off valve aka emergency release valve).
03-23-2007, 12:46 PM
#82
Originally Posted by xtreme 2
so it's supposed to pop when pressure gets too high? lol
03-23-2007, 01:08 PM
#84
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
i blame timing then.... cause it ran before so it wasnt the valves... and i dont see how teh EGR would do that.
03-23-2007, 01:30 PM
#86
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 113
I took the disty off in order to switch the cutter wheels, but like you said it only goes back on one way so unless it just needs to be calibrated (turning side to side) I can't think of anything else...
plugs look fine, and when cranking they spark on the valve cover...
plugs look fine, and when cranking they spark on the valve cover...
03-24-2007, 12:35 PM
#88
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 113
ok so today I went out and tried it again, no go... but then I checked the spark plugs (even after checking them yesterday) and they were a little black from what looked like oil... dunno if I just didn't notice it before or what. So I went to AutoZone and bought a new set of Spark Plugs, gapped them, popped them in and the car fired right up... but then it died... fired right up, then died...
thinking that there may be too much fuel I shut off the fuel pump toggle and she straightened up and idled/revved fine.... let it idle for 10 minutes and then called Dan to show him... it's still idling fine... but when I went to go it bogged and died... thought it just ran out of gas finally so I turn the toggle on, car fires up but idles at like 500 rpm and eventually sounds like it drowns out. Turn the toggle off, car fires up and idles fine, go to go, car starts to die so I flip on the toggle and it drives fine til I go to stop and the car goes to idle, idles low, and boggs and dies...
So it seems with the toggle off the fuel pump sends enough to idle but not drive, and with the toggle on it drives fine but sends too much to allow a good idle...
Does anyone know if the ECU uses a resistor to limit the voltage to the fuel pump? I know that you can take a fuel pump and depending on the amount of voltage it puts out a different amount, say it shoots out a lot more with 12v than it does with 9v, 1.5v, etc...
I don't want to be driving around flipping a toggle each time I start/stop, so anyone have any ideas?? can't find anything Hayne's or Chilton's concerning that...
thinking that there may be too much fuel I shut off the fuel pump toggle and she straightened up and idled/revved fine.... let it idle for 10 minutes and then called Dan to show him... it's still idling fine... but when I went to go it bogged and died... thought it just ran out of gas finally so I turn the toggle on, car fires up but idles at like 500 rpm and eventually sounds like it drowns out. Turn the toggle off, car fires up and idles fine, go to go, car starts to die so I flip on the toggle and it drives fine til I go to stop and the car goes to idle, idles low, and boggs and dies...
So it seems with the toggle off the fuel pump sends enough to idle but not drive, and with the toggle on it drives fine but sends too much to allow a good idle...
Does anyone know if the ECU uses a resistor to limit the voltage to the fuel pump? I know that you can take a fuel pump and depending on the amount of voltage it puts out a different amount, say it shoots out a lot more with 12v than it does with 9v, 1.5v, etc...
I don't want to be driving around flipping a toggle each time I start/stop, so anyone have any ideas?? can't find anything Hayne's or Chilton's concerning that...
03-24-2007, 05:39 PM
#89
Originally Posted by xtreme 2
Does anyone know if the ECU uses a resistor to limit the voltage to the fuel pump? I know that you can take a fuel pump and depending on the amount of voltage it puts out a different amount, say it shoots out a lot more with 12v than it does with 9v, 1.5v, etc...
What was the fuel pressure when it was running? Can you put the stock regulator back on?
Last edited by NismoPick; 03-24-2007 at 05:43 PM.
03-24-2007, 07:07 PM
#91
Originally Posted by y2daniel1981
i guess we could try to stick the afm back on.
Originally Posted by y2daniel1981
would it work to directly wire the fuel pump to pins 20 and 108?
Originally Posted by y2daniel1981
cant remember checking the pressure when it was running
03-24-2007, 07:50 PM
#93
Taken from page 1 of the Hybridz write up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250
I believe PIN 20 is actually inactive or otherwise not really used. The wire running to the 280zxt ecu PIN 16 is the + fpr source. So you should be checking for voltage on PIN 16.
Now the ECU controls the power that switches the FPR on thru the ECU pin 108, and the 16 l/r wire is ignition + to the FPR. Now I have no explanation for this part, but according to the book, pin 20 from the Z31 ecu should activate the FPR, which then loops back thru the FPR to pin 108. This did not work for me. However, it worked perfect when I connected the new wire going to pin 108. Again I dont know why pin 108 is working for this and pin 20 did not, but it sure is working well on my car.
03-24-2007, 08:01 PM
#94
03-24-2007, 09:37 PM
#95
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 309
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Taken from page 1 of the Hybridz write up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250
I believe PIN 20 is actually inactive or otherwise not really used. The wire running to the 280zxt ecu PIN 16 is the + fpr source. So you should be checking for voltage on PIN 16.
I believe PIN 20 is actually inactive or otherwise not really used. The wire running to the 280zxt ecu PIN 16 is the + fpr source. So you should be checking for voltage on PIN 16.
Originally Posted by NismoPick
PS... I like this quote from xtreme on hybridz:
Apparently we're retarded.
Apparently we're retarded.
I've seen some stupid people on here, as well as on hybridz, and every other forum on the internet, so don't take it to harshly
lol
03-24-2007, 10:19 PM
#96
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 113
it was when the other people started chiming in that it started getting "retarded"... you have always been a great help...
Well I talked to a friend of mine that has a 1986 Z31 up on blocks and we are going to borrow the MAF and ECU from him to see if it makes any difference in the way things run...
How do you adjust the A/F Mixture with a stock ECU? it seems like it is running too rich at idle...
Well I talked to a friend of mine that has a 1986 Z31 up on blocks and we are going to borrow the MAF and ECU from him to see if it makes any difference in the way things run...
How do you adjust the A/F Mixture with a stock ECU? it seems like it is running too rich at idle...
03-25-2007, 07:45 AM
#98
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 309
Originally Posted by xtreme 2
and Dan, the AFM is the reason why I wanted to do this swap in the first place... it was crap and putting it back on would put the car into limp-home mode again...
03-25-2007, 12:51 PM
#99
Originally Posted by y2daniel1981
i know the AFM was crap, when he said undo everything i thought he meant EVERYTHING
03-25-2007, 04:23 PM
#100
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 309
is there anyway we can somewhat tune the a/f ratio without an AFC/EMS/ or chip?
and xtreme says there is no way he wants to go back to stock and the wiring is dead on (sent that though text since he's at work)
and xtreme says there is no way he wants to go back to stock and the wiring is dead on (sent that though text since he's at work)
Last edited by y2daniel1981; 03-25-2007 at 04:37 PM.
