what kind of headers you got lying around wildman, if you got a 6-1 header i would consider buying one, i have a 6-3-2-1 header now, but it fits like crap, and it doesnt look as impressive as the others.

 

Man i haven't had this many problems with a car in a long time. I decided to look under the hood and see what kind of stuff I will have to get out of the way for when the header comes...well well well wouldn't you know I have another leak! As it turns out this stud is broke off in the head. Makes me think if this one is missing, how many others are missing or leaking cause I dont feel any exhaust coming out of the flange anymore but I still hear the leak.

 

That is the stud that breaks off most often. The back stud on the number 6 cylinder exhaust manifold is notorious for breaking.

 

I will second that. Been through two Z's with 3 heads total that had that stud broken off. On top of that I've seen that stud broken off on a few other peoples Z's as well.

 

You just need to get an extractor set. That is what I did with my '82's motor. And it was the same #6 exhaust bolt. It is quite common for it to break. I am not sure why, but I believe it is in a tight corner, with not much air getting through. And a lot of serious heat collecting over the years. But yeah I got an extractor set from Autozone for I think $15 or so. I can't quite remember, and also purchased some drill bits. After all that and a little help from Carl, we got the broken bolt out, with no issues. Of course it was in vain, when I realized 3 cylinders were dead in the water.

 

if you use a left hand twist drill bit, sometimes the stud comes out with the drilling part, mine had 3 bolts broken when i got it, it was the front 2 and the typical rear. they all came out pretty easy, one with just the drill bit. just make sure your in the middle, straight and true, get a buddy to spot u if your not sure

 

Hold up... before you go extracting, let me lend some advice...

I too had a stud break in my head. A neighbor up the street said... "Just drill a hole in the stud & use a square extractor to unthread it back out." Well... the biotch was in there good & I broke the extractor off. So then my neighbor brings down his diamond drill bit & breaks it off in the hole... so then he says... Oh... here's what we shoulda done...

Grab a 10mm bolt & weld it on the end of the stud... the weld won't stick to the aluminum head, so it was simple to do... then put a wrench on the 10mm bolt & yoink! Out it came.

Now, this will only work well if the stud has broken off flush w/ the face of the head... otherwise you will need to drill. Just don't do more work than you need.

 

Welding the bolt is how we had to have my buddys sway bar fixed, His was recessed a little though and the guy had to build up just the very center of it with weld and slipped the nut over the weld then filled in the center of the nut...worked like a charm. Just curious but is the stud that goes into the head the same size as the three for the flange?? If so then I can just put in one of these good ones I have. I did find the one that is missing from the head sitting on the intake and even though it is rusted it looks like it could be the same.