Exhaust Flange Bolts
 

I have access to a lift now so I am able to fix my exhaust. Does anyone know what the size of the stock manifold flange studs are for an 82 NA? These are the three studs that hold the flange to the exhaust not the manifold to the head. Thanks guys I am off the get the gasket...

I just did the same repair on my '79. I believe, if i remeber correctly, they are a 10 * 1.25. I bought the 10 * 1.50 first, and they wouldnt tighten all the way. The 10/1.25 are the way to go. Sorry if those measurements arent dead on, but they are close.

Bob aka Bubbles to some. :unibrow:

CRAP!! That's the nut sizes.

Sorry man, all my studs on my manifold were in one piece. I just remember the nut size.

^ Those are some small nuts :)

Rod.

Man, no luck so far. I did get the part number from Nissan for the studs though. (14064N4200) 3 required at $3.47 each without nuts and they have to order them. Of course they could not tell me the size either, nor could Napa or Advance Auto. Man I don't want to "Jerry Rig" the exhuast.

Is the manifold still on the engine? NAPA (or at least the Napa's around here) have the "Wall of nuts / bolts / studs" to match up your needed hardware. Just start goin down the nuts w/ your stud until you find the right threaded nuts.

This could turn into a twisted thread really quick! :unibrow:

Sadly yes the manifold is still on the car, I am going to soak the remaining stud with PB blaster and head down to the car lot where the boss man said I could use his lift and tools free of charge. He is pretty sure his grease monkey has some studs that "may" work but we will see...at least I have the gasket. I will let you all know if I get it fixed.

Well I dropped the exhaust today only to find out the two broken studs were broken off in the manifold far enough so I cant get to them. I went ahead and put the gasket in and bolted it back up...when I took it down it was real lose so I used two flat washers and was able to use a socket to wrench it tight as hell. After I did that the exhaust does not move but there still was a tiny leak but I filled it and now just waiting the two hours till I can start it after this stuff cures...looks like a plaster cast but it says it is good past 2000 degrees F. This should do till I get a header for the car and new exhaust system. Who knows, I may get an extra 250hp from fixing the manifold flange!!!

Well here is the aftermath...the plaster-like wrap is now dry and solid as a rock...no leaks and I have a lot more bottom end and the pedal is more touchy. I am very pleased with this "temp fix"..should last for a while.

Attachment 4680
Attachment 4681
Attachment 4682

Temp really was temp, the fix lasted for about an hour of around town driving till it cracked!!!!

I've tried every brand of exhaust repair crap I could find and it's all crap. It'll work further down the exuast but not on the manifold where there's so much heat

Agreed. Pull out the MIG welder and throw some steel at it. It won't last forever, but it'll last longer than the 'ceramic' repair stuff and should get you through until you can get that header and new exhaust system.

I am glad you said something about the MIG welder, a guy I know has one and he used it to remove a bolt just like mine (broken off and recessed) on my buddys sway bar a while back. He built the recess up a bit with the welder on the end of the broken bolt then put a nut over the buildup and filled in the inside of the nut and let it cool, he was then able to put a ratchet on the bolt and it came right out. I think this would work even better on my studs...I am going to contact him today and hopefully fix this problem the right way....thanks for bringing up the welder, the thought had never even entered my mind till just now...you are the man!!!!!

My studs are here!!
 

Well I got my studs for my exhaust flange today...thanks to my brother, he got them without my knowlege from eBay...what a guy! He said it took two days for them to get here...FAST. The guy he got them from I am sure you who have been to eBay have seen his stuff (reddat) is the guys name "buy from him if you can". Anyway the studs are perfect and brand new as stated in the auction, here are the pics and I will get the exact sizes of the threads soon for all who would like to know. The listing said NOS but these nuts look beefier than the stock nuts and are a bit taller, hey I don't mind just more threads to grab. I hope to have this leak behind me by Saturday.....

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../Bolts-top.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...lts-angle2.jpg

Yeah I have dealt with him a few times before. Great guy to deal with, I will agree on that one.:)

Here are the stud thread sizes
 

I stopped buy the auto parts store with the studs and got the sizes for everyone and it is as follows...
The coarse thread that goes into the manifold is 10x1.5
The fine thread that the nut goes on is 10x1.25
But you can use the same size for both sides you would just need the right nut to fit the thread, but these are the factory sizes.

Actually the best source for studs is Pallnet. He makes his own and sends them with copper/brass nuts so they don't rust. The ends of his also have a small (1/4" I think) head on the so you can wrnch them into the head and not worry about it backing out. You even get a full set for the exhaust side so there's no need to reach under and work any bolts in from under the intake. Great guy to deal with and he's a huge Z fanatic. Lives in southern Louisiana I believe.

I know his fuel rails are a hot item.

He's the lone ranger now that JSKInnovations is gone.

Crap! Crap! Crap!!!!
 

Why is it when I get new things I can't use them? I headed out to the shop with new studs in hand to use the lift and pull those busted studs out...NOPE!!!!!!! The guy who was trying to remove them assured me they would come out easily as he had done this many many times before with no problems. Well after the second "easy out" busted he thought it best to not try anymore. Man I am pissed! The good news is I found out my rear end...tranny pan....oil pan...and Fu#@ing power steering are all leaking!!! Also I think if I hit a big enough bump to catch air in the car I may just fall through the floor pan.

Looks like I have to remove the exhaust manifold completely from the car as my buddy in St. Pete ripped me a new one for not calling him to do it (he is a master mechanic), he is going to take it to his shop and bust out the drill press then the O2 and Acetylene. My problem is I haven't the first clue how to remove this exhaust manifold to take to him to have fixed. Why me?

the manifold really is a pain, but isnt that bad if you follow the correct order, you can get all the bolts under the manifold from the top with a bit of trying and a 12mm wrench, then undo the top 4 with a 14mm and a universal joint and the hard part is done, you have to take off the intake hose, front idler pulley to access the fuel rail mount, and there are coolant lines going to the egr vaccum control, this can be un bolted from the manifold so you dont have to try and remove the lines or drain the coolant. and the lovely egr tube that is usually rusted into place, remove it from the intake side to avoid some frustration, 1/1/4" wrench works well there, and a 12mm wrench will be needed to remove the heatsheild from the bottom of the intake, but do the egr tube first. hope that helps. ask or start a new thread for that job tho, or search, theres bound to be a millon q's on this one. and you might as well get that header now.

Thanks Shady280, I am going to do some looking around under the hood tomorrow and see what pops out at me. I dont mind removing the intake to get to the exhaust because the car won't be drivable till I get the exhaust manifold back anyway. I am sure I will need a new gasket also and it will give me a clear shot at the very last exhaust manifold bolt that is busted off in the head...the one closest to the firewall..it's toast! I am curious as to the complexity of this setup and would like to see it all apart. I like the feeling of puting things back together and everything working...but if it doesn't I may just buy a little 250cc bike to put around on it till I get the car to GA. I will post a new thread when the tear down and reconstruction begin in about a week and a half with pics and all.

if you want pics, i can take some when i do my gasket here shortly, maybe i should do a write up for all with pics along the way. this q seems to come up often enough to need such a help part. i will also ask silvr if he can make a technical writeup header so such articles can be posted, so if we have a problem, we can check those first before asking, and the pics will save many the problems, cause everyone can understand those. hope all goes well for you thxone

I think a writeup would be cool on this, I am sure people would like to know about removing and reinstaling the intake and exhaust. It would be cool if you put up some pics too, I know if I just jump under my hood and start taking things off I am going to be there for a few hours. I don't mind some reference pics before I go in.

As for the write up, two heads are better than one so I will be having the digital camera and a note pad out there when I do the tear down and when it goes back together...I have a N/A car and I would like to put a header on it, so if I come across one before I try to repair this manifold then it will be about the header going on. I would not mind comparing notes in case I might leave something out. But if you have done this alot then I am sure it will be cool.

Also if you do decide to put a header on. Get the header gasket from Motorsport auto. It is $12 or $13, and works great on my '82. I would think about selling you my headers, I have lying around. But I don't have a scale to calculate shipping. I am not quite sure, on how much they weigh. But I know it is not much.