280ZXT to Z31T ECU / MAF Swap Guide - PDF Download
04-04-2016, 07:16 AM
#1
280ZXT to Z31T ECU / MAF Swap Guide - PDF Download
I have compiled all needed info and documentation into a comprehensive guide to upgrading the 280ZX Turbo ECU and AFM to Z31T ECU and MAF.
The 81-83 Datsun 280ZX Turbo (S130) and 84-89 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (Z31) both use Nissan’s ECCS fuel injection system. The Z31T ECU is virtually plug & play into the 280ZXT EFI harness with a few quick wiring changes. Benefits of this upgrade include: updated fuel and ignition timing control, less airflow restriction, option to use NIStune, PocketROM, JWT, AFC or similar aftermarket programmable ECU controls, ECU diagnostic codes, wiring fixes, etc. This swap alone will only add about 10hp, but eliminates the troublesome AFM and wiring bugs of the 280ZXT. Running with a boost controller and intercooler, the Z31T ECU will make big improvements.
See attached PDF file (download / open). Enjoy!
The 81-83 Datsun 280ZX Turbo (S130) and 84-89 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (Z31) both use Nissan’s ECCS fuel injection system. The Z31T ECU is virtually plug & play into the 280ZXT EFI harness with a few quick wiring changes. Benefits of this upgrade include: updated fuel and ignition timing control, less airflow restriction, option to use NIStune, PocketROM, JWT, AFC or similar aftermarket programmable ECU controls, ECU diagnostic codes, wiring fixes, etc. This swap alone will only add about 10hp, but eliminates the troublesome AFM and wiring bugs of the 280ZXT. Running with a boost controller and intercooler, the Z31T ECU will make big improvements.
See attached PDF file (download / open). Enjoy!
Last edited by NismoPick; 04-05-2016 at 09:13 AM.
04-24-2016, 11:18 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 12
I haven't looked at all of your instructions, but I would really recommend the 88-89 Z31 ECU for your upgrade. That is the very best unit to use for the car. Also, you can wire the ECU exactly like the Z31 so that when you turn the key off, the ECU will stay on 5 seconds and checksum the ECU engine parameters so it will not have to learn again for the next start.
I have worked with JWT extensively on the Z31 ECU and the 88-89 unit is the best for the type of batch firing, the O2 enable and disable, you might want to call Clark if you would like to know all of the improvements just tell him Jeff sent you, and he will give you all the details.
I have worked with JWT extensively on the Z31 ECU and the 88-89 unit is the best for the type of batch firing, the O2 enable and disable, you might want to call Clark if you would like to know all of the improvements just tell him Jeff sent you, and he will give you all the details.
04-25-2016, 08:21 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 9
78 s30 burn off
First off thank you for taking the time to provide such great info on the z31 swap. I just completed mine using this guide and the car starts and runs. Im stuck in a hard place however with the burn off cycle. I'm surging and have rough idle and lack of power. Seem to be lean and I suspect the maf. Before I swap a known good I was wondering if the self clean is possible with an s30 because of the speed sensor parameter? Or if it's possible to manually run the clean cycle?
1978 280, 85 turbo ecu, maf, chopper, cas. 82'harness.
Double and triple checked and ohm wiring. Thanks
1978 280, 85 turbo ecu, maf, chopper, cas. 82'harness.
Double and triple checked and ohm wiring. Thanks
04-25-2016, 09:55 AM
#5
I have worked with JWT extensively on the Z31 ECU and the 88-89 unit is the best for the type of batch firing, the O2 enable and disable, you might want to call Clark if you would like to know all of the improvements just tell him Jeff sent you, and he will give you all the details.
Seem to be lean and I suspect the maf. Before I swap a known good I was wondering if the self clean is possible with an s30 because of the speed sensor parameter? Or if it's possible to manually run the clean cycle?
1978 280, 85 turbo ecu, maf, chopper, cas. 82'harness.
Double and triple checked and ohm wiring. Thanks
1978 280, 85 turbo ecu, maf, chopper, cas. 82'harness.
Double and triple checked and ohm wiring. Thanks
Have you checked timing?
Checked ECU diagnostic codes?
Checked CHTS?
Checked for vacuum leaks (mainly the VCM and lines since they are no longer used)?
Yes, you can perform a manual MAF burn cycle by connecting 12v to MAF plug wire F for only 1-2 seconds max. You will see the filament glow like a light bulb.
See: Z31/300zx ECU/MAF to 280ZXT swap guide: 1981 supplement - Turbo / Supercharger - HybridZ
Originally Posted by 280Z Turbo
CLEANING CYCLE FOR MAF:
This was originally automatically controlled by the speed sensor on the Z31 and since 76s didn't have that, I needed to find a manual way to control it. Ignore the part in Afshin's write-up about connecting MAF terminal F to the ECU if, like me, you don't have a speed sensor.
I just used a push button ignition switch. I removed the bracket for the hood release and drilled a hole. It was the best place I could think of that didn't require making a hole in the dash or console. I have heard that you just hold the button down for 1-5 seconds and release to clean the filament. You don't want to burn up the filament, so be careful!
This was originally automatically controlled by the speed sensor on the Z31 and since 76s didn't have that, I needed to find a manual way to control it. Ignore the part in Afshin's write-up about connecting MAF terminal F to the ECU if, like me, you don't have a speed sensor.
I just used a push button ignition switch. I removed the bracket for the hood release and drilled a hole. It was the best place I could think of that didn't require making a hole in the dash or console. I have heard that you just hold the button down for 1-5 seconds and release to clean the filament. You don't want to burn up the filament, so be careful!
04-25-2016, 12:58 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 12
Z31 ecu
Ok now you are getting me to dig into my memory. The Z31 ECU utilizes the single wire O2 sensor the zirconia sensor. To be sure, the sensor that scales 0-1 VDC or close to 1 volt. The other sensor changes resistance. I do know you use the stock 280zx sensor for the upgrade. I am sorry it has been a long time since I messed with the Z31 box.
Regarding your problems and challenges, the Z31 ECU has to be remapped for sure, no question about that. The Z31 timing is set to 8 degrees if I remember correctly and the 280zxt is set to 20 degrees. The cold start and warm start enrichments, along with the TTP min needs to be changed as well.
If you want, I can give you a bin file of the tune for my car, but I was running the Ford Cobra MAF in my car to get the hp up, and the 440 Mercedes injectors as well.
Really you will never get the unit to work well until the ECU is retuned, the stock Z31 tune will do you no good and the car will not run good at all.
I went through all of this stuff, and if you want to do the upgrade I highly recommend buying Nistune to tune the ECU. You other option is to talk to Clark and see if he can do the mods to upgrade your ECU. JWT did do the older ECU's but they are not the preferred unit to start with.
Hope that helps,
Regarding your problems and challenges, the Z31 ECU has to be remapped for sure, no question about that. The Z31 timing is set to 8 degrees if I remember correctly and the 280zxt is set to 20 degrees. The cold start and warm start enrichments, along with the TTP min needs to be changed as well.
If you want, I can give you a bin file of the tune for my car, but I was running the Ford Cobra MAF in my car to get the hp up, and the 440 Mercedes injectors as well.
Really you will never get the unit to work well until the ECU is retuned, the stock Z31 tune will do you no good and the car will not run good at all.
I went through all of this stuff, and if you want to do the upgrade I highly recommend buying Nistune to tune the ECU. You other option is to talk to Clark and see if he can do the mods to upgrade your ECU. JWT did do the older ECU's but they are not the preferred unit to start with.
Hope that helps,
06-29-2016, 10:48 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 3
questions
Thank you again for posting this. I hope to start my swap in the next couple of weeks. I had a few questions for clarification.
Are there any benefits to using an 88-89T ecu instead of an 84-85T ecu for the swap? Or does it really just come down to what you can get your hands on?
I'm guessing I'd need an A/T ECU for an A/T 280ZXT car or does this not matter?
If I decided to go with upgraded injectors, what are recommended? What ECU would work with them?
Are there any benefits to using an 88-89T ecu instead of an 84-85T ecu for the swap? Or does it really just come down to what you can get your hands on?
I'm guessing I'd need an A/T ECU for an A/T 280ZXT car or does this not matter?
If I decided to go with upgraded injectors, what are recommended? What ECU would work with them?
06-29-2016, 10:55 AM
#9
Welcome to ZDriver!
88-89 ecu's are high impedance, so you will either need high impedance injectors or drop resistors, and a titania o2 sensor. The two benefits of 88-89 ecu: No lean cold start issue as known in the 84-86 ecu (not really that big of a problem), and somewhat easier to install a PocketROM / Nistune.
Transmission type does not matter.
Run stock turbo injectors for now.
I am running 308cc injectors with a bunch of mods and it runs quite rich (10.5:1) at full boost... still pulls like a freight train though.
Make sure you read through the whole how-to doc... most of this is covered.
Run stock turbo injectors for now.
I am running 308cc injectors with a bunch of mods and it runs quite rich (10.5:1) at full boost... still pulls like a freight train though.
Make sure you read through the whole how-to doc... most of this is covered.
06-29-2016, 11:13 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 12
ECU selection
The 88-89 ECU is the best unit to go with. Try to get the manual Federal unit if you can, but again you can go with whichever unit you want to. The man fed unit has the best software.
Injectors, well go with the Bosch peek hold injector if you can. Although there are new injectors on the market that are better then the old pinnacle type bosch injector.
Give Jim Wolf Technology a call (619) 442-0680 JIM WOLF TECHNOLOGY, INC. / NISSAN PERFORMANCE / NISSAN RACING /INFINITI PERFORMANCE and ask to speak to Clark. Tell him your hp goals, and if he has an injector for your application. Make sure you get an injector that can be run at 3 BAR, NOT 4 BAR static pressure. The reason being is that you will be hard pressed to get a fuel pump that will do 4 BAR plus the boost pressure. Most fuel pumps fall off a cliff @ 80psi for flow rates, just when you need the most flow. The external bosch o44 pump does a good job, just watch your flow/pressure rate. I would highly recommend that you mach up the fuel delivery system when you decide how much power you want to make. calculate the flow rate, and do the functional test. that will be the tell for your system, there are a number of variables that NO ONE ever considers, like the voltage drop across the fuel pump relay contacts when your pump is loaded to your max fuel flow and pressure, you know like when you are under max boost and RPM when the engine goes lean and you smoke a 2500.00 rotating assembly with detonation under max power.
The 88-89 box, if connected correctly will do a checksum of the engine parameters before it shuts down, really cool for a short run to 7-11 and not have to learn the whole program again.
hope that helps
Jeffp
Injectors, well go with the Bosch peek hold injector if you can. Although there are new injectors on the market that are better then the old pinnacle type bosch injector.
Give Jim Wolf Technology a call (619) 442-0680 JIM WOLF TECHNOLOGY, INC. / NISSAN PERFORMANCE / NISSAN RACING /INFINITI PERFORMANCE and ask to speak to Clark. Tell him your hp goals, and if he has an injector for your application. Make sure you get an injector that can be run at 3 BAR, NOT 4 BAR static pressure. The reason being is that you will be hard pressed to get a fuel pump that will do 4 BAR plus the boost pressure. Most fuel pumps fall off a cliff @ 80psi for flow rates, just when you need the most flow. The external bosch o44 pump does a good job, just watch your flow/pressure rate. I would highly recommend that you mach up the fuel delivery system when you decide how much power you want to make. calculate the flow rate, and do the functional test. that will be the tell for your system, there are a number of variables that NO ONE ever considers, like the voltage drop across the fuel pump relay contacts when your pump is loaded to your max fuel flow and pressure, you know like when you are under max boost and RPM when the engine goes lean and you smoke a 2500.00 rotating assembly with detonation under max power.
The 88-89 box, if connected correctly will do a checksum of the engine parameters before it shuts down, really cool for a short run to 7-11 and not have to learn the whole program again.
hope that helps
Jeffp
06-29-2016, 11:29 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 12
O2 Sensor
The 88-89 ECU utilizes the Zirconia sensor, not the Titiania sensor, that's one of the things that makes the ecu swap easier.
Now if you want to get really susfisticated, get a wide band and use the 1 volt output to the ECU, and you really need a good wideband to do any tuning. I don't recommend Innovate.
Now if you want to get really susfisticated, get a wide band and use the 1 volt output to the ECU, and you really need a good wideband to do any tuning. I don't recommend Innovate.
06-29-2016, 11:42 AM
#12
To clarify, the 88-89 n/a is zirconia, the turbo ecu uses the titania. The "old school" trick was to swap the 88-89 turbo EPROM chip into an 88-89 n/a ecu, thus keeping the zirconia o2 sensor. Seeing as how that requires very complicated desoldering the chip and soldering in a socket, I found that buying the $12 titania o2 sensor, and $8 bung adapter is much easier when going with the 88-89T ecu.
06-29-2016, 06:21 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Reno Nevada
Posts: 12
o2 sensors
Interesting, I never knew they had different o2 sensors. I just used the N/A ecu to do my upgrades. I took a look at the JWT site and was surprised to see they have a 550hp z31 application for the s130 car. When I started my upgrades, they only had the sport 450 upgrade, only after all the crap I did to my car and pulled another 100hp out of the setup that they came up with the 550 package, what a rip LOL. I set the bar for the L28 performance, aside from electromotive that is.
Now I run a 1990 300zx ECU in the car. I thought that would be the best unit to run, but after talking to Clark, I found out the 1993 box was the best unit to run, at least regarding the software.
I went away from the Z31 box as I was getting a consistent misfire due to single coil configuration. The spark was getting blown out, and I tried everything to fix the problem, to no avail. Also, if you look at a z31 dyno that is doing good power you will always see a knee in the power curve. That is when the duty cycle crosses over 50% so what happens is that in stead of going from a 0 to 5 volt state, the ecu flips the sinewave and goes from an on state to the off state to get the added dutycycle. I never cared for that to much.
The 90 box is working good for me. I did have to build an offset circuit for the MAF to gat a little more power out of the box. I am working for 750hp this last build. Not to bad for an L28.
Now I run a 1990 300zx ECU in the car. I thought that would be the best unit to run, but after talking to Clark, I found out the 1993 box was the best unit to run, at least regarding the software.
I went away from the Z31 box as I was getting a consistent misfire due to single coil configuration. The spark was getting blown out, and I tried everything to fix the problem, to no avail. Also, if you look at a z31 dyno that is doing good power you will always see a knee in the power curve. That is when the duty cycle crosses over 50% so what happens is that in stead of going from a 0 to 5 volt state, the ecu flips the sinewave and goes from an on state to the off state to get the added dutycycle. I never cared for that to much.
The 90 box is working good for me. I did have to build an offset circuit for the MAF to gat a little more power out of the box. I am working for 750hp this last build. Not to bad for an L28.
Last edited by jeffp; 06-29-2016 at 06:27 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bookmarks
