my 83 280zxt starts up great cold, idles great drives great, but then after i try to start it again while its still hot, it just cranks. it seems like it only acts up like this after the engine is hot, like a temp sensor could be bad or something. could the CHTS be the culprit? its had me runnin in circles and i just wanted to see if anyone knows anything off the top of their head. thanks guys and gals!

 

When a car won't start, it's one (or both) of these main problems:

#1... no spark

#2... improper fuel delivery.


Do you have spark at the plugs? Are the injectors spraying?

 

im going to have to run down the list and test everything after its hot and i turn it off. in the mean time ill just have to leave it running if i take it somewhere lol.

 

you tried opening the throttle while cranking?

 

check you're compression when the engine is warm at running temp. you should have above 100psi on each cyl.

 

i'd go ahead and do the temperature sensor. i've seen a bad temp sensor do the exact same thing to a honduh

 

unfotunately i've been out of town and wont be back for another two weeks, but ill post back in this thread when i see whats up. thanks again guys

 

ok im back and have checked it out again. right now my current theory is the ignitor. right now the car doesnt start at all now.... no spark. so maybe it was shorting out and has now gone out completely? i cant find my damn haynes manual cuz i was trying to see if it shows a way to test the ignitor. So can one of you please help me out with this? thanks in advance

 

sounds alot like this:
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/overheating-distributor-26345/

 

yes exactly, you can also see i posted in that thread, but i need to know how to test the ignitor to see if it works... thanks

 

Here's a scan from the Haynes manual... Also, just an FYI: you can download the FSM from www.xenons130.com

 

man thanks a lot ill let you know what i find out

 

ok the secondary circuit resistance on the coil was slightly higher than what it should be, so i replaced it. the ignitor seems ok... there still no spark and i did some further checking and i dont have any pulsing to the injectors now either. this makes me want to go back to the crank angle sensor/distributor. i found my haynes manual finally and both that and the 83 fsm doesnt seem to show how to test/check the cas or distributor, i was hoping someone could help me in trying to figure out if my dizzy was faulty, also if you have any other ideas or suggestions for me. thanks!

 

ok i replaced the distibutor with a used one and still the same thing. i'm out of ideas guys. i need some help!

 

try this. unplug the igniter and stick your multi meter probes inside the plug so you make contact, then tell me what the reading is with the key on. Then have someone start it and tell me what the reading is there. Also, just above your ecu is a couple of modules. When its running touch those and tell me if they are hot. Specifically the one running your fuel pump.

 

sure ill go back and write down the readings. since it doesnt run i wont be able to do the touch/hot test for the fuel pump module if i understood you correctly... check back tomorrow afternoon/evening for results. and thanks a lot

 

sorry i didnt get the chance to mess with it today. Mhinrichs i will post up info as soon as i can thanks.

 

Take your time, I`m in no hurry.

 

i sent you a pm mhinrichs...

 

Your return line could be clogged which does not allow cold fuel from the tank flush out hot fuel that is surely bubbling after a hot soak.

If you turn on the key a few seconds and back off a few times before trying to start the car it should start right away since this allows the bubbling volume of vapors in the rail to be compressed back down to liquid.

 

this sounds like a good theory. i will definately keep this in mind. right now my focuses are on my no start ignition problem. i am beginning to think that it is possible i replaced the ignitor with another faulty one. one of the downsides of trying to find deals on used parts. i will definately keep you guys updated...

 

i tried yet another used ignitor and coil yet still no spark. could the computer have went out? what is this thing that runs to the back of the distributor?

 

That thing is a resistor, it doesn't really need to be attached but its there so cant hurt. To test the cas you need an oscilloscope, as it pots out square wave signal. As for the computer look at the side of it and see if the green light is on, then find someone to let you plug their computer in and see if that resolves the issue.

 

A CAS issue maybe?

 

it might be the distibutor my z was doing the same i replaced it runs fine now ,except i ahve one problem now its running to rich and my spark plugs are all fouled up any ideas?