Hey guys, I recently had a birthday, and now I have birthday money to put to good use on the z.

I would like to do something with the suspension; every time I go over a speed bump, it creaks and squeaks. Right now I'm thinking of upgrading to these tokico springs or these tokico shocks (front and rear) based on recommendations in the forum.

The problem is that I don't have the money to do them all at the same time. I can replace all the springs or all the shocks. which should I do first? Which will help with the creaking and improve performance?

 

The front end creak is from the toasted front control arm bushings. New springs will help firm up the ride, but shot shocks / struts will still make the car feel like it's floating on the road and bobbing over bumps.

You could do the Mercedes 300D springs for the rear (I've talked about that one in other threads). Pretty simple fix for $10-$30 junk yard find. I never found a good junk yard replacement for the front springs.

 

Just to understand, the new springs will firm up the ride, new shocks/struts will make the car float?

So do you think I should get the upgraded bushings (front/rear)? Those are actually cheaper than the rubber replacement ones on autozone site ($17 for each one).

I thought in another thread, though, you said you have to cut the mercedes springs? To be honest, that kind of terrifies me, but for saving $$ i'd give it a try.

 

^^^ I meant "shot shocks" as in only replacing the springs and leaving the old (dead) shocks / struts in (you said you don't have the $$$ to do both at the same time).

Cutting the springs is cake if you have a grinder w/ a cutting disc or chop saw. You have to cut them as they are A LOT longer, but they are stiff as can be... so more firm ride (zero squat).

 

so I guess now my question is, what happens if I upgrade the shocks/struts and leave in the old springs? Will that smooth out the ride? firm it up?

 

Shocks wear out more often than springs. So with the struts and shock cartridges replaced, it will be a big improvement. I replaced my springs because the front right was sagging due to fatigue.

I would suggest doing the fronts all at once because it's a lot more work to remove the struts, and that way you only do it once. The rears can be removed in about 2 minutes.

And since you'll have the front struts out, I suggest doing the control arm bushings and sway bar links too (replace w/ polyurethane).

 

I was afraid you were going to recommend doing the front first. When I replaced the tie rod end, I couldn't get the wheel off or remove the struts after a couple hours of struggling. Ended up just having to be sneaky and replace the inner tie rod end with just the tire and the wheel on. looks like I'm going to have to try and fight that battle again!

But if it improves handling and gets rid of that squeak every time I go over a speed bump or into a driveway, it will be worth it.

 

The wheel... as in the wheel wheel... the tire? Were you using a tire iron or impact gun? You could always take the car to a local tire shop and ask them to hit the lugs with an impact to loosen them, then snug them back up and drive home.

If they are on that tight though, there's a good chance you will break the lug or stud (been there... done that on both). Breaking the stud is no big deal as you can replace it for $2. If the lug snaps in half and the other half is still seated / threaded, then it will be a LONG process getting it off.

 

Tires came off just fine! I guess I'm showing my lack of knowledge here because I wasn't quite sure what part to call it . I meant the part of the wheel where the strut attaches to the brakes. I searched for a picture, and attached what I meant (not from my car).

 

Ah... the ROTOR. You don't need to take the rotor off to remove the strut. Makes things a lil easier, but not necessary.

 

I guess the overarching problem was that we could not get the strut off of the rotor. I'm not sure I'm saying that right ...

 

To do the springs and strut inserts (shocks) you won't need to touch the rotor. The only time you'd need to remove the rotor is to replace it or have it machined smooth for a brake job.

To remove the strut, remove the 3 bolts holding it onto the control arm, remove the cotter pin and nut holding the tie rod (then knock out the tie rod), remove the brake line clip, and the three nuts on the strut tower top, and out comes the strut.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I'm fairly certain you've prevented me from doing something stupid.

mostly, I just hope every time I take my car apart that I don't royally screw something up. The bushings should be fun, too.

 

Hit me up anytime you need.

I whipped up a guide in Photoshop for ya: Haynes manual pg 55 & 257-259.