I have an 83 and my brakes are acting like there is air in the lines, but I have bled them multiple times. I have replaced the master cylinder and the front rubber lines. Any help would be appreciatted.

 

Why not replace the rear rubber lines? There are four brake hoses in the rear, not just two.

Are you sure you're bleeding it properly? And what do you mean by they are acting like there is air in the lines? The brakes won't be rock solid with just a half inch of pedal travel. Not unless your parking brake is stuck on... If they get more firm with multiple pedal pumps, then that is what air in the lines causes.

 

The peadl goes almost to the floor and then works on about the last 1/4 inch or so. The pedal goes pretty far before any thing happens. I just changed the front ones cause they were falling apart, and the back ones are fine right now. Don't want to replace stuff that is not broken until they work right. Know what I mean.

 

Did you bench bleed the mastery cylinder really well, and then re-bleed the entire brake system?

 

How about the vacuum booster? Is it still in good shape?
John 82ZXT

 

No I did not bench bleed the cylinder. But when it was installed I bled it at the bleeders on the cylinder. I also crawled under the car today and found the pass. side e-brake cable to be stuck in the set postion. I heard that the cable being stuck could be the problem so I got it so it was not stuck any more. It still does the same thing though. Bled the front ones really good tonight, but did not get around to the back ones. I did not notice that much of a difference. Going to try to bleed the back ones tommorrow. Thanks for all the help so far, anything else would be appreciatted

 

Please let us know what the problem is once you figure it out. The pedal shouldn't travel that far if the rear brakes have air in em, there would have to be alot of air in those lines! My brakes are almost the same way, but I can still fit my foot under the pedal fully depressed so I think I'm alright. I tried even bleeding the master cylinder at the bleed screws.


Maybe its time to take the car to a shop and have them figure it out. They have pneumatic and hydraulic vacuums that suck the air right out of the bleeder screws, it may work alot better than manual bleeding. Just take the car to the shop eary in the morning when traffic is scarce and leave plenty of room to brake. Be careful

 

It is not that bad, once the pedal starts to work(which is only about a 1/4 of an inch) it is fine but I got to apply quite a bit of pressure to it. I still have some things to look at before it goes to the shop. But that thought has crossed my mind.

 

It is most likely the master cylinder. There is air stuck in it and you can't get it out just by bleeding the screws on the side with the pedal. That pedal doesn't push in all the way. The firewall blocks the travel.

you have to take it off the car (which takes a total of 5 minutes) and stick it in a vice. Use a dowel or long bolt to push all the way in and bleed the bleeder screws that way. Plug them and instal the master cylinder again. Re-connect the lines without getting any air in them if at all possible. with the master cylinder full of fluid, bleed the entire brake system. (all four wheels) You'll be stopping well in no time.

If anything, a stuck parking brake cable will make the brakes feel more solid.
Bleeding a Master Cylinder

 

i agree with bleach... before you install a new master cylinder you should always bench bleed it before you install it.

 

So there is no way around it? It has to come off the car? Can't be done on the car?

 

I like to use a hand vacuum pump. I think they are still only around $20. It has a gauge on it so you can watch the pressure. You simply attach one end to the bleeder valve and the other end in a can. Pump it up and open the bleeder valve. When the pressure drops to 0, close the valve and repeat. Start at the master and work your way back.. This is a good way to purge the old stuff and you don't have to have someone pumping the brakes for you. It can also be used to check your vacuum acessories and distributor advance.