Best primer usage
07-10-2008, 06:43 PM
#26
Originally Posted by 280zx2by2
is an automotive paint store like a body shop? cause i dont think i have seen a automotive paint store in my town... plenty of house paint stores though
Auto body & paint supply store = SELLS AUTO BODY AND PAINT SUPPLIES.
A body shop = PHYSICALLY REPAIRS CAR BODIES.
Pretty tough huh?
Have you ever heard of a phone book? There is a huge Automotive section in the YELLOW PAGES. You should check it out sometime. Or, since you've managed to use the internet, check out www.dexknows.com or www.anywho.com
07-10-2008, 07:52 PM
#27
Haterade by da gallon!
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Valdosta GA
Posts: 2,306
im just saying that there arent any in my town....
i mean it seems kind of pointless to have a auto paint store...
or mabe not.... now i feel like an entrepreneur with a plan for like
JB's Auto Paint Store
i mean it seems kind of pointless to have a auto paint store...
or mabe not.... now i feel like an entrepreneur with a plan for like
JB's Auto Paint Store
07-10-2008, 07:59 PM
#28
Originally Posted by 280zx2by2
i mean it seems kind of pointless to have a auto paint store...
And while you were twittling your thumbs, I found an auto body supply store in your town...
C & D Auto Paint
107 Hemlock St Ste B Valdosta, GA 31601-5197
PH# (229) 257-0042
Huh... that's weird.
07-10-2008, 08:02 PM
#29
Haterade by da gallon!
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Valdosta GA
Posts: 2,306
nismo i swear your like the big brother that i never had... well i do have a big brother.. well your the big brother paint suplier i never ha... welll my brother brings me paint too...
your like the extra big brother i never had!!!!
i have never heard of hemlock street....
your like the extra big brother i never had!!!!
i have never heard of hemlock street....
07-11-2008, 06:14 AM
#32
Under My Car... brb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 386
I found that painting things while they're hanging is best left to large items that have enough weight to keep them from swinging. I have held them on a hanger and painted them then hung them to cure. 'Cause that's what paint does it cures not dries.
Which would be a better bare metal prep, the vari prime or the POR-15?
Which would be a better bare metal prep, the vari prime or the POR-15?
07-11-2008, 06:21 AM
#33
It's really up to you. You can use the POR 15 metal conditioner if you already have it... Variprime must be mixed like a primer, but it's supposed to protect the metal from rust if you get rock chips.
I personally use 3M / Dupont products and am happy w/ the results.
I personally use 3M / Dupont products and am happy w/ the results.
07-11-2008, 09:20 AM
#35
Under My Car... brb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 386
Good point Shady. I have a cousin that paints and he suggested using Imron by DuPont. With all of the salt chips and pothole debris that hits the front of the car I probably should use an aircraft grade paint.
With brands does it matter on the metal based filler too?
With brands does it matter on the metal based filler too?
07-11-2008, 07:11 PM
#36
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
no, because your primer goes over. dont forget some of the primer your talking about isnt the high build required for the "just b4 paint" step. what i normally do, is from base metal is
1. epoxy primer (2 part)
2. for undersides por15, for the shiney side, high build primer
3. my bondo if required (so its sealed both sides, not just the top side)
4. another layer or depending of high build
5. block sand the primer down
6. wet sand 600 for base clear, 320 for single stage (imron)
7. when its all done, about a week or 2 later, 2000 grit wet sand and polish to beautiful. (still havent done this to my z) also dont forget to sand between all coat of primer and b4 paint. and not just scuff it, sand it. prep is 90% of the work, painting is only 10. nismo and 260 can atest to that.
1. epoxy primer (2 part)
2. for undersides por15, for the shiney side, high build primer
3. my bondo if required (so its sealed both sides, not just the top side)
4. another layer or depending of high build
5. block sand the primer down
6. wet sand 600 for base clear, 320 for single stage (imron)
7. when its all done, about a week or 2 later, 2000 grit wet sand and polish to beautiful. (still havent done this to my z) also dont forget to sand between all coat of primer and b4 paint. and not just scuff it, sand it. prep is 90% of the work, painting is only 10. nismo and 260 can atest to that.
07-11-2008, 07:33 PM
#37
Under My Car... brb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 386
Excellent! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Now to save some nickels and dimes to get prepped to paint. I wish I had an in at a local body shop so I could rent a corner for a week during the winter. I don't know if I can get the garage ready for a clean paint job. If I can get the colors I want I'll go with the Imron otherwise it'll be Chromabase.
07-12-2008, 05:05 PM
#38
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
well itll take more than a week with a z to get it done really nice. spend the extra time and alot a month to do it. take the door handles out, bumpers off. little stuff like that really adds to the job. then it doesnt just look like a quick respray.
