Z31 setup w/ SAFC?
 

Just curious if anyone is running the Z31 ecu setup on their Z and is using the Apex'i SAFCI or II. I'm planning to install an SAFC on my Z and was wondering what wires you tapped you into for the sensors that the SAFC needs. It'd be cool if you could share your fuel and maf settings too. I'll probably mirror the 240sx guys and make my fuel map from there. If no one has done this, well, I guess I'll be posting a how-to sometime next week. :D Let's just hope this storm passes quickly.

I know this kid hooked up an AFC to his 280zt:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/330795/10

I was looking at the E Manage Ultimate. You can pick one up for 5 bills or less and it will even convert the AFM to MAP! Thats impressive for a piggy back and pretty cheap for everything that it does.

I was planning to do the same thing with the Z31 and the greddy emanage. I had already bought the Z31 setup. I had asked about the idea on Hybrid and most people didn't think it was a very good idea. I decided for the money I would just wait and go stand alone so I eneded up selling the Z31 setup.

MS'n'S is even less than that E-Manage. The new one can even run the Ford DIS now. So you can get rid of the distributor with it now.

Oh and the E-Manage Ultimate is a lot more advanced then the standard E-Manage was. Ultimate is still fairly limited due to it being a piggy back but it's a lot more capable then the original E-Manage is/was.

I DONT UNDERSTAND ANY OF THE COMPUTER UPGRADES, SO WOULD SOMEONE JUST BUILD ME ONE USING MY DISTRIBUTER AND MY MSD 6A BOX? THE LAST UPGRADE I NEED IS FUEL COMPUTER.:icon_anal:

Mega Squirt will do the trick. Especially with your NA setup. I dont remember exactly how much it goes for but MSnS is probably in the $350-$400 range and thats full stand alone :eek: Of course you still have to tune it and you've also got to buy the sensors and cables and what not that are needed to make it work. I'd say for less than $500 though you can have MSnS and everything needed to make it work.

Well The Hard Part Is Getting Everything And Making It Work, Im Not Good At That Part, Is There A Kit Or Something Or Is It Test And Guess?

I have to agree that MSnS is the way to go if you have the time and don't have to worry about underhood inspections for emissions (lack of MAF = non CARB compliant). Living here in Cali sucks at times so that's part of the reason I'm not going with MegaSquirt. The SAFC can stay hidden outta view and I'll be able to pass the emissions because I'll have my MAF present too.

The GReddy E-Manage looks like a good computer to use too since you can adjust timing as well as fuel, whereas the SAFC only adjusts fuel. I'm still waiting on the rain to subside so I can get to work on installing the SAFC. I think I have the wiring figured out, it's only a matter of getting the fuel settings down. If I can get it to work fine with the stockers, I'll put in some larger injectors and tune those and post my settings as well in case anyone else wants to follow suit.

Btw, there are preassembled MegaSquirt units for sale, I can't remember where I saw it, but you still have to get the necessary sensors and have either a pda or laptop handy to tune the maps realtime.

From what I've heard, the z31 ecu uses the maf output to
help calculate where to put the spark timing.
So when you start to fake the maf output, you inadvertently
screw with the timing as well.

I Have A Laptop, Just Need The Rest.

Heres a couple places:

General info:
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
Assembled units and other parts:
http://www.rs-autosport.com/
http://www.protocar.net/

I should also point out that since the MegaSquirt is so widely used that I'm sure you could hop over to HybridZ and find someone with a similar setup to yours and get a map from them that they are using. That way you get a good place to start from with minimal tuning.

*This is long!!!* Get ready to fall asleep, or read this while on the crapper. :icon_toilet:

Ok, so it's not raining for once here in SD so I got a chance to install the SAFC. I got the SAFC wired up right now, but I have not started on the fuel map tweaking at all since the sun's starting to go down and if something goes wrong, I don't want to be out there freezing my butt off till help arrives. I'll tweak the maps starting tomorrow. Anyway, I'll try to make this as easy as I can for those of you who switch to the Z31 setup and want to use an SAFC.

In advance, CraZed thanks for the heads up on the timing control. I don't plan on messing with the signal much up top, only in the midrange where the ecu is noticeably rich (shoots flames or smoke on decel). If I do mess with the signal up top, it'll be to enrichen as I crank the boost pressure up so the voltage from the maf will still be at 5V and timing will stay the same.

Ok, so off the top of my head here goes my mini how-to. As far as I know, this is the first one for a Z. Just a disclaimer: Please keep in mind that I'm assuming you can do the basic splicing and wiring thing. If you can't do that, then do not attempt this install. Also, my wiring will be slightly different since I have a Crane Hi-6 ignition box hooked up.

Apex wire: Z31 corresponding wire:

-Power (Red) Pin# 35 black with white stripe

-Green (Ignition) I tapped into the (-) wire of my tach adapter for my Crane Ignition system

-Purple (knock sensor) Not used because the knock sensor of the 280zxt isn't used when you switch to the Z31. I'm sure you can adapt a sensor of another vehicle to use though.

-Gray (Throttle Position) I have a 240sx throttle body with the extra pigtail harness that comes with the 240sx TPS. WARNING: Without that pigtail you CANNOT get a throttle position reading. Splice the Apex GRAY wire into the 240sx WHITE wire. You then take the 240sx BLACK wire to a chassis ground. Take the RED to a 12V power source.

-Brown (Ground) Pin# 26 Black, make this splice about 6" or more away from the ecu connector.

-Black (ground) Pin# 26 Black, make this splice at least 1" FARTHER from the ecu connector than the previous brown wire. Here's a simple crappy diagram: main harness-------black------brown-------ecu connector--ECU

So the brown wire is closer to the ECU than the black wire is. Don't get this mixed up or you can kiss your SAFC goodbye.

-Yellow (Airflow signal output) Cut pin# 31 wire and take the wire that is CLOSER to the ecu and connect the YELLOW wire to it.

-White (Airflow signal input) Take the other part of the cut #31 wire and connect the WHITE wire to it. So it will look like this: (another crappy diagram haha)

Main harness---White Yellow--------ECU connector--ECU


Okay, so that's all the wiring part. Turn on the ignition to your Z and let the Apex SAFC load up. Go to the etc and pick that to get to the screen that says Sensor select and pick hotwire. Next, you pick the sensor # and put it at IN = 4 and OUT = 4. For the sensor output calculation select it as IN = 1 and OUT = 1.

Next you'll want to select the # of cylinders (6 in our case, hope you know that! :D) That menu is under "car select." After changing the CYL to 6, scroll to the right and select the THR to show an arrow pointing diagonally to the right and up. (1 o'clock)

The next thing you'll want to do is self learn the throttle angle because otherwise by the time your foot hits about 80% of the travel, the SAFC will say 100% throttle. BTW, make sure you zero out the throttle position by adjusting the TPS position. If you do not zero out the TPS, you will never get the self learning curve to work.

To get the self learning feature to work, go to MONITOR, select channel 1 and select the THR. You will see a throttle % come up. Push the button and select Nx till you get a flat graph. Push up on the button and you'll see a timer appear that counts down from 60 seconds. Press the throttle to about 80% and release it slowly to about 20%. Do this a few times and then floor the throttle to 100%, release slowly to 0%, let it sit for about 2 seconds and then repeat a couple of times. Then press the throttle to about the 75% mark and release to 40% mark and do a couple of times. By the time the counter has finished, you should get 100% throttle at a fully depressed position and 0% when the throttle is untouched. Check this by selecting the Nx and getting the digital readout of the throttle position. If your throttle position is still incorrect, redo the self learning feature.

Turn off the ignition completely once you have completed the throttle positioning. This will save the data into your SAFC unit. Now fire up your Z and check to see if you are getting an rpm and throttle position readout. Once you verify that, turn off the engine and start adjusting your fuel maps, but tune carefully please, don't go blowing your motor by getting overzealous! Everyone's maps will be slightly different since we're not all in the same state of tune, but most will be in a ballpark area. Good luck and happy tuning! Whew....

John

So it worked out for you then? Let us know when you've got it all tuned up and how well it works for you. just remember: As long as you're adding fuel you'll be alright. You're not likely to do any damage running rich. Maybe foul the plugs out at worst. I just really want to know how well this will work.

Man! That's about the same length as the JWT "how to install the JWT modified ecu."

No kiddin! I'm thinkin of doing a Z31 ecu upgrade now!

Jfairladyz, yep, the SAFC is working fine so far. I can rev the engine freely and drive the Z as is. So I can confirm that the SAFC will work. I don't know about the fuel maps yet, but that'll be dealt with in the afternoon assuming it doesn't rain again haha.

NismoPick, yeah it took forever to write that! I coulda finished a 6 pack during the amount of time it took for me to type all that out. :icon_pidu: I just wanted to make sure it was simple enough so that practically anyone can follow the how-to and not get screwed on the install.

I will share my settings for the fuel maps as I get more experience using this unit. Don't worry, I'm not gonna be selfish! :cool: It'll probably take me a couple days to iron out a basic setting. I'll post the setting plus all my mods at this point for comparision. Kinda sucks being alone in this though! Hopefully more people will do this mod and chime in! It'll be pioneering at it's best.

"I just wanted to make sure it was simple enough so that practically anyone can follow the how-to and not get screwed on the install."

Ha ha that's me man. Good deal on the install. :icon_super: Yeah, please share all the details...then someone might make it into a sticky. :) Thanks, John.

Chris

Okay, well I've been tinkering with this thing for a bit, but my fuel pressure regulator took a dump on me so I don't have a basic map yet. Yeah it's not fun when your fuel gauge is reading 54 psi at idle! I had to limp the Z back to my house, stalling out at every light. :armata_PDT_11: Anyway, don't worry I'll be back out on the road tomorrow trying things out. I put in more gas too, lost about a half a tank of fuel! I do apologize though for taking a while, so here's a peace offering, a couple of shots of the SAFC and a few of the screens you can get (though not all). Btw, my Z wasn't cranked on while I took these pics, I just wanted to show the basic screens.


Loading up phase:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...8/DSC09348.jpg

Airflow meter output shown with throttle position, rpm and correction factor:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...8/DSC09350.jpg

This one shows your throttle position along with the rpm on a digital graph as you go farther along the scale.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...8/DSC09349.jpg

Analog pic of airflow meter output and throttle position.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...8/DSC09351.jpg


Okie dokes, so yeah, hopefully by the end of tomorrow I'll have something figured out. The mods of my Z for the basic map I'll be tuning for is:
-Crane Hi-6 Ignition with lx-92 coil
-Spearco fmic
-Turbonetics t3/t04b
-'84 300zxt ecu and maf
-stock injectors
-Moroso 8mm ignition wires
-stock heat range plugs (bpr6)
-3" catback exhaust, stock downpipe
-Apex'i air filter
-boost pressure at ~9psi (0.6 BAR), will do another one for 12psi later, 14 will happen after I get my metal headgasket installed, but that's down the road

Man... that is pretty sick! I wanna know the results! :paranoid:

Well, after burning another 1/4 tank of gas and running who knows how many times up and down the same stretch of highway, I've got a basic map figured out that seems to work ok.:023:

Ne points: 1000, 1600, 2200, 2800, 3400, 4000, 4400, 4800, 5200, 5600, 6000, 6400.

Low throttle: 15
High throttle: 55

Decel values: haven't figured that out just yet, soon to come.

For the low throttle, I only put the correction factor at -1% for Ne points 1000, 1600 and 2200. Other than that, it seemed like 0 correction was needed.

For high throttle, I put the correction at +1% for 3400/4000/4400.
I put +2% for 4800/5200 and +3% for the other three top end rpms. the lower rpm points were left at 0. So far so good on those settings. I'm gonna head off to get some food now, it's been about 6 hours since I ate!

is there noticeable difference in the way it runs / feels ?

Hey bro,

Did you take out the MAF? And I was reading your install instructions... You said that on the setup you pick "hotwire" on the screen.... is the an option for the AFM flap style?

Hey Lifeguard, Setup A Harness And Computer For Me!!! Ill Pay For Time And Materils. Mines N/a Though Would This Still Work?

NismoPick, to answer your questions, the Z is running great. I've made a few more changes to the fuel map, but at 0.8 bar of boost, my Z "feels" stronger than it was before I started tweaking. I can't verify since I didn't dyno back to back, but there is definitely a noticeable difference to me. Could be a placebo effect, but I hope not! :paranoid:

To answer your second question, I am using the MAF out of a 300zx Z31. It's a hotwire setup instead of the flap style on the stock zxt/zx. There are provisions to select flap/hotwire/speed density and Karman Vortex. I personally have no experience trying to setup the SAFC on stock efi components, however, I do believe it can be done. The people who tried to install the SAFC before and failed, used hotwire settings... Don't ask me why they did. I would suggest asking the MKIII Supra and >93 MR2 guys if their airflow meters read the voltage from 5->0V like the stock zxt does. If theirs do, you can mirror their setup. I think the selection was FL-15 for a MKIII Supra.

All you'd have to do then is wire in the TPS from a 240sx and you'd be able to tune away and get rid of the notorious leaning out of the stock ecu above 5000 rpm and 10psi. Btw, try swapping out your ecu connectors with some from a Z31. You'll have to add a few new pins here and there, but trust me, that should clear up your lean running issue. I had the exact same problem and didn't believe swapping connectors would work, but it did. The connectors for the ecu are identical in shape for both n/a and turbo.

Shady280, the SAFC can be used for a naturally aspirated vehicle. My brother uses one on his Spec V with great results. (+6hp and +8 lb/ft. torque on his 4 cylinder) I'd like to help, but I have no experience with the n/a harness and I don't want to screw something up on your Z. If you have a wiring diagram, I might be able to help you out a little bit since the wiring of the SAFC is the same, just the pin#'s are different. Do you have a 240sx tps on you too? Without that, it'd be incredibly difficult to tune with the SAFC since there's no throttle signal being fed.

So you're saying to use a Z31 engine harness? Turbo or N/A? Do I still use the 280zx turbo distrib?
Dude! I'm gettin excited! :038:

I just finished talking to GReddy and they say the original E-Manage is fully compatible with the 280zx ECU and AFM. I'm assuming that this would also be true for the AFC since they are essentially the same thing. It's just a matter of finding the proper settings to make the unit compatible with the AFM. GReddy's tech department seems pretty willing to help as does this company: www.vertexmotorsports.com. There was just an HKS F-Con that was specifically programmed for the L28 and even included an L28 specific wiring harness on ebay. But it looks like somebody already used the buy it now feature :(

And for the Z31 swap you dont need the whole distributor. Just the crank angle sensor and wheel from inside the distibutor. They swap over to the ZXT distributor. All the Z31 distributors, turbo or NA, were the same.

Nismopick, yeah if you still want to keep your stock efi but don't want to use the z31 maf/ecu setup, just swap in the connectors. They are identical to the S130's. Turbo or naturally aspirated doesn't matter as the ecu connectors are the same on Z31's. The ecu is located on the right side of the car instead of the left. They're several years fresher than ours and they seem to hold up better than the s130's for some reason. All you have to do is chop the wires and reconnect them pin for pin. But the Z31 does have a few pins missing so grab a couple of connectors and use one as a parts supplier for the other connectors.

If you want to swap over to the z31 ecu/maf setup, it's like Jfairladyz stated, grab the chopper wheel outta the distributor and that's the last piece of the puzzle along with the ecu and maf. The wiring is really easy after you do it the first time.

Anyways, after I get done with my zxt's tailpipe inspection aka the dreaded smogging sniffer test, I'm going to try to use an MSD boost timing master and some 440cc injectors. The BTM should allow me to retard the timing as the boost increases since ecu won't be doing it with the larger injectors. If the 440's fail, I'll just use the 370cc's I have as backup as I know those will work for sure.

Jfairladyz, if you do go the E-manage route, keep us posted on how it works out for you. I'm interested in seeing how other programs and alternatives to a complete stand alone fuel management system work. I'm sure the E-manage will allow you to make more power than my Z is on the SAFC alone.

I doubt it would make any more power than the AFC is capable of. The ultimate is a little more advanced than the standard E-Manage and AFC but GReddy said they can't guarantee it'll work correctly with the L28's EFI system. They said the E-Manage has been used and it works great. It is truly universal. I've asked around and the E-Manage and AFC are basically the exact same thing. They're just packaged differently from two different companies. They do the same thing. I'm strongly leaning toward the AFC though cause it has the built in display that the E-Manage does not have. You can either tune it via knobs or you can fork over another $130 for the programming setup to tune via a laptop. Another unit I'm going to start looking into is Blitz's R-FIT. It's also a universal piggy back and has the display unit like the AFC. GReddy is a great unit but it starts to get costly when you start adding up all the additional crap you have to buy for it. The AFC seems to come with everything you pretty much need to start tuning.

so what do these systems cost anyway, im interested, but cost always rules, im almost thinking megasquirt. i just want rid of these haynus stock no adjustible components.

A standard megasquirt system will probably run you less than one of these piggybacks. But you have to tune it from scratch. With a piggy back you're simply compensating. You can install 500cc injectors and the reprogram the fuel curve so the computer keeps the mixture right at idle and then really starts dumping the fuel at WOT. BUT, and this is a big one, you are stuck with the basic fuel map of the factory ECU. So if you're looking to make HUGE horsepower then a piggyback probably isn't a great idea. It simply tricks the ECU into doing something it wouldn't do on its own. The E-Manage goes for about $350+ but the support tool costs another $130 or so. Total is about $500. The AFC is a lot less. I think it only comes in at just over $200. THe R-FIT is just over $300. A preassembled megasquirt will run you more than an AFC will. And a preassembled MSnS will run probably in the high $300 range up into the $400's. Plus you have to source all the compatible sensors and what not to work with the Megasquirt. These piggybacks work with what you got. As far as I can tell so far the AFC is the best bang for the buck. Like I said I'm going to research a little more into Blitz's unit too. GReddy is out of the question cause it's cost is not justified.

MSnS v2 = ummm tasty

That's my plan for my 240Z rolling chassis. Still have to re-build my turbo motor and fabricate... well, everything!

Of course, that's after my ZXT is done and I've finished with my 240Z resto-mod project...

So, given my current progress, like 8 years from now, it'll be done! ;)

so i should look for a complete system then, which ones are the piggybacks? i just want adjustible hp. and alot of it, i want to do 13.0 sec in the 1/4. and then change the program and pass emissions. so then i would use a 3 wire map sensor from like a chev right?

A piggy back can do that for you. I'm not sure about the AFC but Blitz unit can store up to 64 fuel maps and has two channels so you can instantly switch between two modes. Tune one channel for performance and the other for emissions. A piggy back is just a lot easier to work with than a stand alone unless you either know what you're doing or know somebody who knows what they are doing. Or you could pay an arm and a leg for a shop to tune it for you :eek:

Right now I'm working on getting a free AFC. My buddies got a heavily modded 3000GT and he's running the S-AFC right now. But he's the type that has to have the best of everything so he's looking into full stand alone. If he goes that route he said I can have his AFC. If I get it I'm going to use it with the 280zx ecu and AFM. According to Apex'i reps it can be done. They said the easiest way (other than finding someone else who's done it) is to use an O-Scope to get the AFM's voltage map and then compare it to the maps of tested AFC applications until you find one that matches up. Then you simply use that vehicles settings. Their techs are supposed to have that information handy so I can submit my map to them or vice versa and we can figure out which setting to use. From there it's just adjusting the fuel map per the cars setup. My car is basically stock for now but a little extra fuel in the top end will definitely help. Then later on when I start upping the boost and utizlizing bigger injectors I can just tinker the fuel map again.

If you consider what a RRFPR goes for the $215 or so that an AFC costs new is really a good idea once it's figured out for the 280zx.

SHADY, the only advantages a stand alone has over a piggy back is you get to design the fuel map from scratch and with some units you get the choice of a timing map too. There are no limitations. But to some thats also a drawback. Tuning from scratch is not easy if you dont know what you're doing. With the piggy back you just add or lessen the fuel where you need to and thats it. If you need to mess with timing in extreme detail then a standalone is the way to go. But if fuel is all you are concerned about then piggy back has you covered.

And if you want to decipher between a stand alone and a piggy back just look at the price tag. With the exception of MegaSquirt, a standalone generally ranges from over $1000 to over $3000 for the top of the line. A piggyback like the AFC, like I said ranges from low $200's on up. Most standalones aren't going to come with any sensors either. So you'll have to add that to the expense. Then there's the expense of tuning if you can do it yourself. And that alone can double your costs.

J, you keep justifying my MSnS solution! You can get a fully built system for $300, add another $200 worth of sensors and BAM! You got a completely tuneable system. Of course, mine is going in a '72 240Z, so I don't have to worry too much about the smog Nazi's and a missing AFM.

Hard to believe the MAF conversion is actually illegal in CA. It's all part of their fascist plot to eliminate older vehicles forcing people to buy new(er) cars as a gift to the large automotive manufacturers political contributions under the guise of reducing pollution... Where's that grassy knoll again?

I'm keeping my Z a street car and I'm not going to be needing all the stand alone perks. Plus I'm back in CA. If I stay here then it'll be alot easier to just swap the injectors and turn the AFC off then it would be to swap out the entire standalone system with the harness and all its sensors. In the end, from a performance standpoint theres no beating the end results of stand alone. If I was building a racing macine then I'd go for the MSnS myself. I'm very handy with electronics and soldering so I could save a few bucks and assemble it myself. But I just dont need all that right now. Plus if I can get the AFC for free then why not make an advancement in S130 tunability for all of man kind :D Basically if I had to choose between a RRFPR and a piggyback for the same basic price, I'd take the piggy back. I mean, If all you want to do is be able to up the boost and run bigger injectors then $215 is really hard to beat ;)

with afc can i get rid of that stupid afm we all got and go maf for better space usage and reliability. i got a rrfpr, it hasnt done a thing for me, when its hooked up and i rev the car it goes down to 20psi then up to 40psi all from when i set it at 30psi to start

You do know that RR FPR's are meant for forced induction engines right? Hence the name "Rising Rate." It won't do anything spectacular on an n/a car.

i wondered about that, but the one i got can also be used on carburated engines to depending on the spring one uses. i used it to cure high end detonation due to high cr's used to be 11.7:1 now its 10.8:1.

AFC can't get rid of the AFM unless you switch to the Z31 setup. MegaSquirt will get rid of the AFM though, as will any stand alone unit.

Good news, the SAFC can be used in conjunction with the Z32 maf. That gives you the potential for ~450hp before you max out the flow capabilities of the maf. You'd need larger injectors of couse and an MSD BTM, but I figure you can probably end up running at least 300-350hp on dog piss 91 octane fuel.

lww, haha yeah it's all a conspiracy or something. I was pissed when the Governator signed the bill ending the rolling 30 year exemption. The missing afm during inspection was told to me by my cousin's friend who's a police officer, and a local smog shop. If an afm wasn't required, I'd be sitting here trying to figure out the MSnS setup. Loads more tuning potential, and the engine bay will be void of the 1000ft of wiring and vacuum lines. :037:

Oh yeah, before I forget, to run the Z32 maf, just set the "in" setting of the sensor to 2 instead of 4. So the screen should read, 2 IN 4 OUT.

Hey guys, IM a newbie here but I have been following this thread. I wankt to give this Z31 ECU a try. I have the ECU out of Z31T and the MAF. getting thie ECU clip from the car as well. Other then an safc what else do I need? I also have the Z31 stock 320cc injectors and wondered if I could use those as well?

Thanx Nick.

Welcome to ZDriver. Read this: http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf...%20UPGRADE.PDF It's basic instruc's on how to upgrade to the Z31 ecu. I am in the process of collecting the needed items to do it.

So what else do I need? It does not make a list including what all I need for my car. lifegrddude was using a Z31 maf and they want to use a mustang cobra maf, so does the Z31 just plug in or do you have to convert wiring for it to?

If you want to use the Z31 maf... use the Z31 maf. The JWT 450hp ecu is programmed for the Cobra maf... but if you have a stock Z31 ecu, use the stock maf. Have you ever done wiring or ecu swaps like this before?

No I personally have not but my brother is quite capable of it. Just trying to figure out what else i need to complete the Z31 ecu swap. Also wanted to know if the stock Z31 injectors would work?

yep... Z31 injectors are the same as the 280zx injectors. Make sure you have the turbo ones tho.

thanks bro. the stockZ31T injectors are bigger then the stock ZXT injectors right? I was told they were 320cc injectors.

By saying "ZXT" I imagine you mean "280ZXT" ... Z31T & 280ZXT injectors are the same size, that's why they are swap-able. I believe they are rated @ 259cc. There are some SVO injectors that will work & older Supra injectors. But anything really higher than ~350cc will throw off the ecu no matter how much adjusting. To upgrade injectors, you really need a re-programmed or aftermarket ecu.

Search around on the internet & on this forum. There's tons of info about this.

sweet! thanks for the info.