Widows not rolling up and down proper
06-13-2001, 12:27 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Widows not rolling up and down proper
I have a 73 240 and I'm haveing problems with both of my windows. passenger side rolls down 3/4's of the way and won't go any further but it rolles up fine. Driver side will roll down fine but won't roll up with out help I have to roll with one hand and pull with the other and it won't fit in the frame properly. now if I take the door pannels off and make it go into the frame the next time I roll it down it won't roll up agian? any Ideas
Thanks
Thanks
10-31-2001, 02:26 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 11
Re: Widows not rolling up and down proper
Couple items for you to check.
The passenger side window, since it's rolling down only 3/4 of the way, it points directly at the FRONT sash, that's a channel that the nylon guide fits into. As posted by someone else, (sorry prior screen so can't give credit) the nylon / teflon guide can dry out and crack and bind in the sash so check to make sure this is intadct.
Next check the sash, this is the metal tube thing mounted on the front part of the door that has the nylon guide running through. Check to make sure that it is STRAIGHT, I have the same problem with mine and discovered that just below the bottom bracket it had been bent and was no longer allowing the window to slide properly. This sash MUST allow the nylon guide to slide completely top to bottom without binding in order to allow the window to move up and down properly. If it is bent, twisted or in any manner not straight, (BIG NOTE HERE: IT DOES HAVE A VERY SLIGHT GENTLE CURVE TO IT, NOTE THE EMPHASIS ON SLIGHT AND GENTLE), OR not allowing the nylon guide to slide through it without binding...REPLACE that piece. I've not found it available readily, so you may have to hit the bone yard.
Next, check the inner fuzzy channel that goes inside the chrome moulding at the top of the door AND inside the REAR channel that fits INSIDE the door. This may have slipped out, been kinked or otherwise NOT allowing the GLASS to ride in the groove it provides. Replacing this can be a bit spendy, but it will eliminate excess wind noise, rain and just temperamental operation of the window.
To check some of these items it might be necessary to remove the window from the door, it's not difficult, just have to be careful.
It isn't necessary to remove the regulator to remove the window, just the front sash, and since you're going to check it out anyhow, it is easier to check these things outside the door.
If you need info on how to remove the window from the door, e-mail me : escanlon@worldaccessnet.com
Last item, once you've checked these items, make sure that your regulator is working properly. Since you are already in there might as well make sure this is ok. Also, check your drain holes in the door, this is where leaves, dirt and other debris can clog the drain holes and trap water, a sure rust breeder. I would recommend using compressed air and your shop vac to reverse blow into the drain holes in order to make sure they're clear.
Once you're done, reinsert the window, get it back on it's rollers, mount the sash to the guide and put the bolts in place to hold it in place.
As you roll the window UP from the middle position where you installed the rollers, look at the angle of the rear edge of the glass in relation to the frame of the window. If the glass tilts towards the FRONT of the car, then you need to adjust the REAR roller support DOWN, if it tilts towards the REAR adjust UP. This is ONLY for the Rear Guide Channel that has the bolts on a horizontal line.
Once you have the window rolling up and down in it's frame properly aligned, it's time to check the front sash. It's installation is simple, just make sure that it is aligned with the Nylon guide, i.e. parallel to that front part of the window.
That's it, hope you didn't mind the length.
Enrique Scanlon
The passenger side window, since it's rolling down only 3/4 of the way, it points directly at the FRONT sash, that's a channel that the nylon guide fits into. As posted by someone else, (sorry prior screen so can't give credit) the nylon / teflon guide can dry out and crack and bind in the sash so check to make sure this is intadct.
Next check the sash, this is the metal tube thing mounted on the front part of the door that has the nylon guide running through. Check to make sure that it is STRAIGHT, I have the same problem with mine and discovered that just below the bottom bracket it had been bent and was no longer allowing the window to slide properly. This sash MUST allow the nylon guide to slide completely top to bottom without binding in order to allow the window to move up and down properly. If it is bent, twisted or in any manner not straight, (BIG NOTE HERE: IT DOES HAVE A VERY SLIGHT GENTLE CURVE TO IT, NOTE THE EMPHASIS ON SLIGHT AND GENTLE), OR not allowing the nylon guide to slide through it without binding...REPLACE that piece. I've not found it available readily, so you may have to hit the bone yard.
Next, check the inner fuzzy channel that goes inside the chrome moulding at the top of the door AND inside the REAR channel that fits INSIDE the door. This may have slipped out, been kinked or otherwise NOT allowing the GLASS to ride in the groove it provides. Replacing this can be a bit spendy, but it will eliminate excess wind noise, rain and just temperamental operation of the window.
To check some of these items it might be necessary to remove the window from the door, it's not difficult, just have to be careful.
It isn't necessary to remove the regulator to remove the window, just the front sash, and since you're going to check it out anyhow, it is easier to check these things outside the door.
If you need info on how to remove the window from the door, e-mail me : escanlon@worldaccessnet.com
Last item, once you've checked these items, make sure that your regulator is working properly. Since you are already in there might as well make sure this is ok. Also, check your drain holes in the door, this is where leaves, dirt and other debris can clog the drain holes and trap water, a sure rust breeder. I would recommend using compressed air and your shop vac to reverse blow into the drain holes in order to make sure they're clear.
Once you're done, reinsert the window, get it back on it's rollers, mount the sash to the guide and put the bolts in place to hold it in place.
As you roll the window UP from the middle position where you installed the rollers, look at the angle of the rear edge of the glass in relation to the frame of the window. If the glass tilts towards the FRONT of the car, then you need to adjust the REAR roller support DOWN, if it tilts towards the REAR adjust UP. This is ONLY for the Rear Guide Channel that has the bolts on a horizontal line.
Once you have the window rolling up and down in it's frame properly aligned, it's time to check the front sash. It's installation is simple, just make sure that it is aligned with the Nylon guide, i.e. parallel to that front part of the window.
That's it, hope you didn't mind the length.
Enrique Scanlon
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