snwbrderphat540

well, ive done alot of good on teh Z but..... im still pissed off. soooo my vacumme guage is reading 20 in Hg again YAY!!!!! the car i re-timed and pulls amazing. got the fuel pump relay's working so no need for a switch now. also my dad some how got rid of the parasitic battery drain, soooo HURRAY!!!! now for the only thing bad left. as you know my car would run then die and not restart. well we all thought coil or ignitor. i spent the 150 dollars and replaced both. especially since it died at my friends house and would not restart AT ALL. with a volt meter we got 9.XX volts at teh plug that goes to the ignitor and after the ignitor on the posts on the coil that go to the ignitor we got zip ****. sooo i replace teh ignitor obviously. but it still dies as i found out this morning on my way to school and doesnt restart. sooooooo im PISSED!!!!! what the hell could it be? and with a volt meter you couldnt get a reading off the injector clips could you since the pulse is so fast?

GTR

When you try starting, are you holding your jaw in the right position because from what i heard from a very reliable mechanic source, that's like really important :P ^.^

Bleach

oh wow, can you do a turbo swap for me too?!?!

NismoPick

He's actually so good at swaps that he's going to open his own shop. I'm thinking about taking my Z to him.

entropy31

maybe he can swap an l28et into my car too!!!!

snwbrderphat540

yeah.... its not a problem with the swap, its either the ecu or wiring harness i got. does any one know if wreckedj30's ecu was problem matic? cause thats whose ecu i got. im soo dissappointed. and even more that i saw 4 responses and not a single one helped with ****.

NismoPick

Wrecked's ecu worked fine. He drove the car 100 miles to my place w/ it.

snwbrderphat540

ic..... *****! hmmmm..... wonder if its a grounding problem them. and next time it happens im going to check the injectors with the LED's if they arent working i guess i can look at the distributor then to.

NismoPick

k... I'm gunna be honest with ya. There could be a million things wrong because you had to mix & match parts to make your turbo motor. It could be as small as one hose hooked up wrong, or it could be a combination of things. It might be easiest to dismantle your intake & make sure EVERYTHING is hooked back up where it should go, and check all wiring too.

snwbrderphat540

its wiring..... well, i narrowed it down a fair amount, when it shuts off, the ECU is no longer powered up, the LED doesnt turn on in it the injectors arent firing no spark jack ****! soooo i either have a short some where or my dizzy is bad because without teh CAS working good i would get these same results no? thats all i can think of and it pisses me off.

snwbrderphat540

soooo uhhh.... nismo do you agree? or do you still think there could be other possibilities cause im open for ideas. i mean, if the ecu totally just looses power or at least stops sending power to everything its attatched to, that means it lost teh CAS signal or a short right? come on add something to this train of thought.

EDIT: i could really use a standalone right about now, SDS or megasquirt with a distributorless ignition, problems would be solved.... guess i gotta talk my ma into letting get a tast of my savings money.

EDIT EDIT: and also, i dont touch ANYTHING... the car sits a couple minutes and pop, starts right back up runs like a champ till it dies again then it has to sit. idk, that pisses me off. and doesnt make sense. but also, does the distributor get grounded? there is liek a spade looking connector that comes right off of what looks like part of the CAS system on teh dizzy right where the CAS wire pops out that has nothin on it. it looks like it should do something. but i dont know what.

PooFlinginMonke

Next time the car dies, quickly wiggle where the wires go into the bottom of the distributor.

If you hear injectors click when doing it or the fuel pump starts to run, then you have your answer.

snwbrderphat540

ill listen for the injectors, fuel pump though always runs when the key is turned since it is in a once carb'd S30 so once its at on the fuel pump keeps humming.

i stil find it bogus that with out touching a thing or even looking at something with a mean face a few minutes later teh car starts right back up in less than 2 seconds of cranking like nothing ever happened.

260zturbo

what kind of fuel pump are you using?

GTR

Well i know i usually don't contribute any "real" knowledge in here, but at least i can give you a virtual hug and hope you figure it out ^.^


*Hugs*

snwbrderphat540

im using the stock turbo fuel pump, its more than sufficient, however i took poo's advice (hehehe.... poo) and jiggled the wire for teh CAS and yeah didnt hear ****, but i tried starting it, got a sputter, cranked it again and after 8 seconds of it finally sputtered came to life and stayed running.... it was bizarre!!! so ive been thinking. my distributor cap only has ONE of the TWO bolts holding teh cap down.... is it possible that moisture is getting in there and screwing **** up? especially since it only seems to be a dick after rain and then a few days later its like nothing happened.



EDIT: hey, ummmm.... WTF is with the huge price difference between the 2 sites? like, honestly? here:
site #1: http://thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM08/10-1321

site #2: http://www.alamomotorsports.com/arp/hsnissan.html (need to scroll to our engine code) ooo and all other sites are this price that list head stud kits by ARP for our car except thezstore, just when i thought i could trust MSA

duowing

Well I've heard about these cars having a lot of problems when you get moisture in either the TPS or the Dizzy. If you're only having the problems when there's been alot of moisture, rain, etc I'd think that would explain that connectors are getting something in them. Although I don't think just one bolt holding dizzy cap down would be enough to cause an issue.

Otherwise when the car's running it runs without issues?

snwbrderphat540

it starts right up every time, just after it rains.... just about a minute into idling not even the car shuts off, the ECU no longer powers on there is no spark and no injector pulse, which means the ecu either shorts internally OR the distributor some where. nothing else would cause a system failure like that excect a shitty power wire, and there all ran new, soooo, highly unlikely as teh problem, specially since you dont touch crap and it will start right back up after sitting 5 minutes.

finally this time though it didnt die and yes it runs absolutly flawlessly, its amazing at how great it runs. it would be a miraculous car if the issue i just described stoped happening.