shopping 280z's; have questions
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2
shopping 280z's; have questions
Hi all:
I've had 2 280z's, but in 1978 and early 80s - both were 1978s. Twenty + years later it's time for the third. Now that they're classics, I have a few questions.
Money is good so I can buy something in excellent, moderate, or not so great shape and have the mechanics and/or the body taken care of (or neither), but I don't want to bother with a whole lot of both.
Ultimately, I'm wondering how do I narrow a lot of listings (minus obvious or preference disqualifiers like brown interior or automatic transmission) to a bunch of phone calls, to 1 or 2 appraisals, to a purchase? Below are a few questions; I appreciate the help.
Thanks!
Judi
1. I'm seeing few '78s and lots of '76 and '77s. What are the primary differences between those and the 1978?
2. What's the relationship between mileage and condition? (Especially when mileage is high and condition is good?)
3. I did a search and found a Q from 2002 that said "buy the body before how it drives" and from it I gather rust is pretty much a disqualifier. What are other ones I need to be aware of or qualifying questions I should ask? (for instance anything with mileage over X, no matter the condition)
4. And randomly -color. I might end up having to drop some cash into a paint job. Very few are metallic blue, red, maroon, forest green - and a whole lot are gray, bronze, brown, powder blue, white, yellow....
I've had 2 280z's, but in 1978 and early 80s - both were 1978s. Twenty + years later it's time for the third. Now that they're classics, I have a few questions.
Money is good so I can buy something in excellent, moderate, or not so great shape and have the mechanics and/or the body taken care of (or neither), but I don't want to bother with a whole lot of both.
Ultimately, I'm wondering how do I narrow a lot of listings (minus obvious or preference disqualifiers like brown interior or automatic transmission) to a bunch of phone calls, to 1 or 2 appraisals, to a purchase? Below are a few questions; I appreciate the help.
Thanks!
Judi
1. I'm seeing few '78s and lots of '76 and '77s. What are the primary differences between those and the 1978?
2. What's the relationship between mileage and condition? (Especially when mileage is high and condition is good?)
3. I did a search and found a Q from 2002 that said "buy the body before how it drives" and from it I gather rust is pretty much a disqualifier. What are other ones I need to be aware of or qualifying questions I should ask? (for instance anything with mileage over X, no matter the condition)
4. And randomly -color. I might end up having to drop some cash into a paint job. Very few are metallic blue, red, maroon, forest green - and a whole lot are gray, bronze, brown, powder blue, white, yellow....
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 92
From: Montana
No major differences between 75 and 78. Do you want a later model because of the fuel injection or is it just what you are seeing for sale in your area? The cars from 71 to 78 are pretty much the same body wise.
Do you want a car that is all original or one that has been modified?
Daily driver or weekend cruiser?
I agree with buying the body. Motor work is cheap and easy in comparison when dealing with rust.
Mileage has more to do with how it was treated. For instance, a car with 200k on it may be a better buy than one with only 100k that didn't get regular oil changes. Details can help to determine how well it was maintained. Look for any obvious places where the original wiring has been hacked up. Electrical gremlins can drive you crazy.
There is a good parts aftermarket for these, so you can get things like OEM seat vinyls easily.
It is worth having a mechanic you trust look it over. The $75 you pay him/her could be saved many times over. You will probably get more for your money and more enjoyment with a car that is already in excellent shape. (Unless you are like a lot of us that actually like being in the garage and bandaging up bloody knuckles)
Sometimes it is better to buy a car with original worn out paint because you can see all of the rust and problem areas that might be hidden by bondo and fresher paint.
Good luck and post some pictures when you find the right one
Do you want a car that is all original or one that has been modified?
Daily driver or weekend cruiser?
I agree with buying the body. Motor work is cheap and easy in comparison when dealing with rust.
Mileage has more to do with how it was treated. For instance, a car with 200k on it may be a better buy than one with only 100k that didn't get regular oil changes. Details can help to determine how well it was maintained. Look for any obvious places where the original wiring has been hacked up. Electrical gremlins can drive you crazy.
There is a good parts aftermarket for these, so you can get things like OEM seat vinyls easily.
It is worth having a mechanic you trust look it over. The $75 you pay him/her could be saved many times over. You will probably get more for your money and more enjoyment with a car that is already in excellent shape. (Unless you are like a lot of us that actually like being in the garage and bandaging up bloody knuckles)
Sometimes it is better to buy a car with original worn out paint because you can see all of the rust and problem areas that might be hidden by bondo and fresher paint.
Good luck and post some pictures when you find the right one
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2
ah, lazlo. Thanks for all your input!
No major differences between 75 and 78. Do you want a later model because of the fuel injection or is it just what you are seeing for sale in your area? The cars from 71 to 78 are pretty much the same body wise.
If they look the same, I don't care. I don't know about fuel injection - what difference it is or isn't, so I'd have to research that.
Do you want a car that is all original or one that has been modified?
Modified is fine - depending on the modifications. Cool wheels, leather seats, better music, faster speed - all good!
Daily driver or weekend cruiser?
I work at home and my boyfriend drives everywhere, so it's a good weather, windows down, radio blasting, totally digging it, drive around CT car during the week. Oh, and errands around town. Like 4K miles/year.
I agree with buying the body. Motor work is cheap and easy in comparison when dealing with rust. One I really like has 3 small spots: under small window, on hood, on roof. That seems okay to deal with no?
Mileage has more to do with how it was treated. For instance, a car with 200k on it may be a better buy than one with only 100k that didn't get regular oil changes. Details can help to determine how well it was maintained. Look for any obvious places where the original wiring has been hacked up. Electrical gremlins can drive you crazy.
PERFECT sense. I hadn't thought about that. Thanks. I'll have a Z guy looking at it as he'll know what he's looking for and at.
There is a good parts aftermarket for these, so you can get things like OEM seat vinyls easily. Good to know - I hadn't thought of that either!
Sometimes it is better to buy a car with original worn out paint because you can see all of the rust and problem areas that might be hidden by bondo and fresher paint.
That's a GREAT point! Thanks Lazlo.
If they look the same, I don't care. I don't know about fuel injection - what difference it is or isn't, so I'd have to research that.
Do you want a car that is all original or one that has been modified?
Modified is fine - depending on the modifications. Cool wheels, leather seats, better music, faster speed - all good!
Daily driver or weekend cruiser?
I work at home and my boyfriend drives everywhere, so it's a good weather, windows down, radio blasting, totally digging it, drive around CT car during the week. Oh, and errands around town. Like 4K miles/year.
I agree with buying the body. Motor work is cheap and easy in comparison when dealing with rust. One I really like has 3 small spots: under small window, on hood, on roof. That seems okay to deal with no?
Mileage has more to do with how it was treated. For instance, a car with 200k on it may be a better buy than one with only 100k that didn't get regular oil changes. Details can help to determine how well it was maintained. Look for any obvious places where the original wiring has been hacked up. Electrical gremlins can drive you crazy.
PERFECT sense. I hadn't thought about that. Thanks. I'll have a Z guy looking at it as he'll know what he's looking for and at.
There is a good parts aftermarket for these, so you can get things like OEM seat vinyls easily. Good to know - I hadn't thought of that either!
Sometimes it is better to buy a car with original worn out paint because you can see all of the rust and problem areas that might be hidden by bondo and fresher paint.
That's a GREAT point! Thanks Lazlo.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 305
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