sl00wsierra

Well guy's, I'm new here and this is my first post. I've been looking around for an older Z for a while now and today I found a '74 260Z. The engine is rebuilt and has about 1000 miles on it, has a new transmission, and the body seems very straigt. It's actually entirely primered right now. He is asking 2200 for it. What are some common problems that I should look for? And do you guys think it is worth 2200? Thanks

theramz

Primer hides all the sins. If it's been done with spray cans, you will have to sand it all off before you paint it. Look around all the edges of the car for signs of body filler. Look underneath for pan damage and rust on the frame rails. I paid that much for a rust and accident free car and ended up changing the perfectly good driveline, all the suspension and brakes. It still needs paint and bodywork. Price is relative to how much you want the car and how much time and money you are able to throw at it. Good luck, now you have Z fever!

sl00wsierra

What kind of price range is there for these Z's. Is that generally high. low, or in the middle? And I have had Z fever for a while. I have wanted a z32 for a while now and I had a 280zx for a little while.

Bleach

The price range for your average running Z with a fairly straight body is $900-3000.
$2200 sounds about right for that car. If he had the engine rebuilt by a shop it probably cost him $2500 for the engine. If he rebuilt it properly, maybe $1500 in parts and machine shop work.

On the primer advice: Why sand it all off if its been done with spray cans? Are all spray can primers junk, or is it the risk that the primer has not sealed out moisture? ...or just to check for body damage?

theramz

An automotive paint dealer told me that the new two part paints will peel off if you use the spray can type primers. They also have propane for a propellant. That's why they don't adhere very well or properly seal. Further more ther is no longer any reason to sand down to bare metal if the original primer is in tact. I've used the new "heavy solids" primers to paint machinery and they work 10 times better.

myxtaz

What has been said about sanding off the primer. First of all you don't know what is under it, was it applied over bad paint , rust and was the surface preped properly. Another thing if painted over any bare metal you want a self etching primer first. The origional paint and or primer indeed does not need to be removed unless it has failed or has any rust under it. I just paid $120. for two qts of base color and $40. for 1 gal. of reactive reducer + the sealer and clear . All totaled it was over $400. Plus the $200 already spent on supplies to prep to paint. The statement about the paint pealing is vary likely but I won't take the chance. SEIRRA, The big thing is to look for the rust , this is the bane of the Zs. You can go to a body shop supply and buy a magnet that will show you if there is bondo and how thick it is. Another thing primer is porus as well as the bondo moisture will cause rust through the primer and bondo also. Look at the battery area and rockers as well as the doglegs and rear hatch. Does it have round top SUs , how is the interior , dash and carpets. In Oregon the car should have a interior in great shape with a crack free dash and stright body , for this much cash. A GOOD paint job should run you $1500.00 + any body work . Gary