Hey everyone, I really need some help and some expert advice from all you Zed pros here.

I have a 260 Z that has been sitting in my garage for several years now and the emergency brake was left on and has seized up... I've been told that more than likely the brake has rusted to the brake drum. As you've probably figured yourselves, since that brake is on, that car is going nowhere.

My first question is what can I do about this?
Second question, how would I go about doing this?
Another question, does anyone know the specs of a 260 Z brake system and emergency brake???

Oh by the by, I'll post a piccy of the car and the space I have to work with so you can see what I have to work with and maybe tell me where to start... Just take a peek at my profile for those pics. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRICIATED!!!

Thanks
Love always,
Kira

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by Kirie_260Z on 06/29/02 08:05 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

I'd start by putting bricks on the front wheels so the car doesn't roll when you jack it it up. Jack up the rear and take of the wheels. See if you can get the drum of the wheels, and if you can have a look round to see what is going on. By the way the haynes manual is pretty helpful. If you cna't get the drum off (like i couldn't) then i'd take it to a brake specialist. I was banging and banging it, but it wouldn't come off

Alan, Australia

 

Chock the front end both in frond and rear of the front tires. Jack the rear end up and remove try to rotate the tires by hand (ensure the tranny is in neutral). If you can do this it probably means the cable is seased inside the cable housing. If you can't turn the tires by hand go ahead and remove the tires and with a RUBBER Mallet hit the brake drums. You can hit them with quite a bit of force around the outside edge then tap the face and see if you can turn them by hand. You should be able to break the rust loose this way. Then I would get it to a brake shop A.S.A.P. The drums will probably be scored and need to be turned and the shoes replaced. I would recommend getting the front brakes inspected as well.

Hope this helps you out some.
-damon

 

Had a buddy that this happened to him. He had a old Mustang that sat for a few years while he was paying his debt to society. When he got out, the car had been sitting for 4 years. A little starting fluid and the car started right up. Same as your situation, however. The emergeny brake was left on and we could not lower it inside the car. We used a rubber mallet and tap the drums on both sides, still would not release. Since we knew we were going to replace the shoes and drums, we put the car in gear and drove it. The shoes broke a little when we did this but it was freed up. Then we simply replaced the brake shoes and the drums.

 

Had the same behavior on a 280 I've since finished and sold. We used the mallet trick, but it wasn't enough force and the cable had checked out a-ok. So, we used an 8 foot two by four around the edge of the drum, and a 6 lb hammer. One person holding the two by four against the drum edge, the 2x4 going underneath the car to the other side where the other person held that end and used the hammer. Communication and working slowly is required to prevent mashed fingers. It sounds a little silly, but we had nothing to lose at that point, and in fact by going around the edge of the drum it came off with no damage. Some ample cleanup allowed reuse of everything except the shoes and one or two retainer springs, which were done in by the corrosion which was causing the seizure in the first place. An easy brake rebuild and all was well. Can't wait to see the pics...
Have fun and good luck, sounds like a good restore project.
Dave

 

That looks like it covers all four of our suggestions. My advice is have at it, but be careful. If you don't have a good manual with illustrations of the brakes I would suggest getting one, that way if it comes apart on you you'll be able to see where the new parts go. Anyway good luck, and let me know how it works out for you.

-damon