Going to check out a 76 tomorrow??
12-13-2010, 08:12 AM
#26
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Modesto, Ca
Posts: 109
Almost forgot... So I bled the breaks last night..I know i dnt have any air in the lines did a full flush.. but i only have less the half a pedal and its kinda spongy. Didnt see any fluid in the boot by the plunger. if the master was bad would it still leak into there or would it sit it the booster. also when I start it the pedal dosent hold so that tells me the booster itself is shot right??
12-13-2010, 03:32 PM
#27
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
huh? lol. Ummm usually when masters go bad they leak inwards of what they are mounted on. the soft lines in god condition? because most S30's i've owned, the rubber lines are soft and really keep the pedal spongey feeling. Also air or dirt or water in the lines can cause that, even pads that are basically gone. So i'd just be double sure all the fluids in the lines are clean and new.
12-13-2010, 08:43 PM
#28
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
Yea I have been posting a lot lately lol. Ok cool so the dash and consol are probably stock then that’s good news. The carpet has been cut out, but from what’s left looks like it was brown. Haven’t seen sun bleaching reach up to pedal clusters before?? I agree the “saddle” Look's good I like it too. Is that the true name for this color scem?? The seats are jacked but the headliner, as well as around the strut supports the compartments and the rest of the trim are really good only one nick in the headliner. It will all stay till I go to restore it then I will go all black.
On the rust a lot of it looks like stuff (leaves ECT) sat on it and wasted away cuz most of it looks like surface rust. I did see a lil bit of bubbling at the base of the hatch all the rest looks good. I do have some on the pass floor board drivers is mmmmok just a lil there. I have it up in the air now the rails looked ok I will check out the rest that you said to look for but I’m not going to be gutting it out as of yet. My goal is to have the s30 for my DD while I bring back the zx then ill restore this beauty.
The engine did feel strong driving home although I was just cruising didn’t wana get on her especially with the issues I had. I haven’t done the pulling of plug wires to make sure she’s running on all six. I want to clean out the afm just to be sure it is clean as well… Best way to clean it??? The gas tank was completely empty I added 5 gals of fresh 89 for the ride home. Engine oil looks fresh and oil filter looks bran new cap is new as well. I am going to do a full tune up any way I like to run full syn in all my cars. This thing didn’t even have battery connecters on it just bare wire's bolted to the bat I cleaned the wires and put connectors on with an optimum bat I already had. Need to check and clean the cables on the other side.
I will be changing out all the manifold hoses and any others that dnt look that great.
Thanks for all the info… on those crappy wires the one that is disconnected outa the three round connectors. If I plug that in she won’t start, and shell die if I plug it in while running. As to the red wire... I found what looks to be a temp sensor next to the thermostat housing but it’s a black wire black to red usually not smart but idk. The temp gauge is working...
Got the emblems off sept for the hood and rear quarters...
Your door panels look better then mine do lol and im missing the crome.
Again thanks for the info... looking forward to more and getting her road worthy soon.
On the rust a lot of it looks like stuff (leaves ECT) sat on it and wasted away cuz most of it looks like surface rust. I did see a lil bit of bubbling at the base of the hatch all the rest looks good. I do have some on the pass floor board drivers is mmmmok just a lil there. I have it up in the air now the rails looked ok I will check out the rest that you said to look for but I’m not going to be gutting it out as of yet. My goal is to have the s30 for my DD while I bring back the zx then ill restore this beauty.
The engine did feel strong driving home although I was just cruising didn’t wana get on her especially with the issues I had. I haven’t done the pulling of plug wires to make sure she’s running on all six. I want to clean out the afm just to be sure it is clean as well… Best way to clean it??? The gas tank was completely empty I added 5 gals of fresh 89 for the ride home. Engine oil looks fresh and oil filter looks bran new cap is new as well. I am going to do a full tune up any way I like to run full syn in all my cars. This thing didn’t even have battery connecters on it just bare wire's bolted to the bat I cleaned the wires and put connectors on with an optimum bat I already had. Need to check and clean the cables on the other side.
I will be changing out all the manifold hoses and any others that dnt look that great.
Thanks for all the info… on those crappy wires the one that is disconnected outa the three round connectors. If I plug that in she won’t start, and shell die if I plug it in while running. As to the red wire... I found what looks to be a temp sensor next to the thermostat housing but it’s a black wire black to red usually not smart but idk. The temp gauge is working...
Got the emblems off sept for the hood and rear quarters...
Your door panels look better then mine do lol and im missing the crome.
Again thanks for the info... looking forward to more and getting her road worthy soon.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/js-how-rebuild-your-afm-15277/
12-15-2010, 11:02 AM
#29
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Modesto, Ca
Posts: 109
huh? lol. Ummm usually when masters go bad they leak inwards of what they are mounted on. the soft lines in god condition? because most S30's i've owned, the rubber lines are soft and really keep the pedal spongey feeling. Also air or dirt or water in the lines can cause that, even pads that are basically gone. So i'd just be double sure all the fluids in the lines are clean and new.
Working on the body right now... yea I Know I’m doing it backwards,
cosmetics before mechanics but I want get the ZX back in the garage. It’s sitting outside in the rain tarpped but still out in the moister with bare metal.
Here is a writeup, to help clean your AFM. It will help restore it, and make it work almost like new. Hope it helps. Oh, and pics look great man. Looks like a fun project ahead. Keep up the good work!
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15277
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15277
Thanks for the good comments it’s a blast I’m so happy I went with the s30 instead of picking up another zx. Now I have one of each 
Here are some more pics I’ve got the majority of the rust kicked off. Bumpers off and clear coat broke so my primer will stick well. Ive still got some wrk to do on the roof but, I'm hoping on doing up the bondo today. I’m going to build some custom bumpers, and not put back on the 2 tons worth of stock bumpers. Mine wont protect me in a wreak but if they turn out as good as they are in my head they should look pretty cool. Ill get a pic of what im thinking about soon... thanks for the comments and keep em coming. Enjoy
12-15-2010, 01:58 PM
#30
Über User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: lemont, Illinois
Posts: 9,532
huh, I don't remember reading anything about the pads or the lines, just the fluid flush, which is why I only stated to be sure that it was all flushed, though it's a hard thing to mess up. I can't think of why else the pedal would feel mushy other than maybe a bad master or poorly adjusted pedal. take off the master and check it out, see if there is anything inside the booster, I never took one apart either, but I know they are simple.
12-16-2010, 02:33 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Modesto, Ca
Posts: 109
I didn’t say anything about the lines in the first post that was just in the reply lol. I meant the long one but nm it’s all good. Ill check the pedal adjustment and the pull the mc prolly tomorrow.
I should be done with the body tonight. Laid all the bondo last night at shot some primer on other areas. I have got one more spot to finish filling and sanding the clean back up all the dust to finish painting and let it sit over night.
I should be done with the body tonight. Laid all the bondo last night at shot some primer on other areas. I have got one more spot to finish filling and sanding the clean back up all the dust to finish painting and let it sit over night.
12-17-2010, 01:03 AM
#32
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Modesto, Ca
Posts: 109
Bondo'ed and primered
OK guys!!!! Got er done… at least the first coat
still will have to do some touch ups and feather the paint off of the bondo spots got those typical grey patches where the bondo is, as well as do the inside hatch and door frames ect. Over all she looks good. I am fighting myself really hrd on not hurrying this process, as is the point is to save her from rusting out any further and to look good, while I take care of the zx. I can’t wait to put the wheels back on her and pull off the tape to get a real look at her completed. Then it’s into the mechanical end of things to get her legal and on the road then I will further the upgrades as I go. Well here’s the pic’s
still will have to do some touch ups and feather the paint off of the bondo spots got those typical grey patches where the bondo is, as well as do the inside hatch and door frames ect. Over all she looks good. I am fighting myself really hrd on not hurrying this process, as is the point is to save her from rusting out any further and to look good, while I take care of the zx. I can’t wait to put the wheels back on her and pull off the tape to get a real look at her completed. Then it’s into the mechanical end of things to get her legal and on the road then I will further the upgrades as I go. Well here’s the pic’s
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