1972 240Z Bleeding Breaks
05-04-2008, 01:27 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Eagle, Idaho
Posts: 10
1972 240Z Bleeding Breaks
Hi all,
I'm back to ask for more help. I finally got the car started, and am working to make it drivable. I need to "flush" the break lines and I found a link at AutoZone indicating I should open the right rear then the left rear break line. I'm use to the reference of driver side or passenger side, so does anyone know which side I should start with? Also, should I hook an air compressor to the lines to blow all the 20 year old fluid out, or should I just remove as much of the old stuff as possible from the reservoir, add fresh, and just keep pumping the break and adding fluid until the stuff coming from the break line looks clean?
I'm back to ask for more help. I finally got the car started, and am working to make it drivable. I need to "flush" the break lines and I found a link at AutoZone indicating I should open the right rear then the left rear break line. I'm use to the reference of driver side or passenger side, so does anyone know which side I should start with? Also, should I hook an air compressor to the lines to blow all the 20 year old fluid out, or should I just remove as much of the old stuff as possible from the reservoir, add fresh, and just keep pumping the break and adding fluid until the stuff coming from the break line looks clean?
05-04-2008, 03:04 PM
#2
It really doesn't matter what side you start on... if you want clean fluid in all 4 corners you will need to open all of them anyway. Don't use compressed air... that will make more of a mess than help.
All you need to do is open one corner at a time, have someone fill while you pump, and after 5-10 pumps check the color to make sure it's clean. Pumping while the bleeder is wide open will flush it pretty quick.
There's also tons of web pages that talk about bleeding / flushing / maintaining brake systems.
http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/brakef.htm
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...e-fluid-flush/
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/brake_fluid_change.htm
All you need to do is open one corner at a time, have someone fill while you pump, and after 5-10 pumps check the color to make sure it's clean. Pumping while the bleeder is wide open will flush it pretty quick.
There's also tons of web pages that talk about bleeding / flushing / maintaining brake systems.
http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/brakef.htm
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...e-fluid-flush/
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/brake_fluid_change.htm
05-04-2008, 06:47 PM
#3
Pr0n Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: virginia
Posts: 4,617
the order is given in the instructions for a reason. most instructions pretty much say to bleed from the wheel farthest from the master to the wheel closest. this is the surest way to ensure you don't get air in.
the left side refers to the drivers side, and the right is the passengers.
and as said, do your second option. just pump the brakes until clear fluid comes out. usually about 20 pumps on the back as a guesstimate will get all the dirty fluid out.
the left side refers to the drivers side, and the right is the passengers.
and as said, do your second option. just pump the brakes until clear fluid comes out. usually about 20 pumps on the back as a guesstimate will get all the dirty fluid out.
05-06-2008, 11:34 AM
#4
Hoov for Pres!
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tempe AZ
Posts: 959
I will add one more thing.
If you have ever seen Vegemite, that is what my brake fluid looked like. It was almost a solid it was so messed up. Remove as much as you can from the resevoir before putting new fluid in.
If you have ever seen Vegemite, that is what my brake fluid looked like. It was almost a solid it was so messed up. Remove as much as you can from the resevoir before putting new fluid in.
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