i think you might have some wiring issues.

 

according to the "turbo.pdf" I have ALL sensors/switches/relays plugged in (except for the two vacuum solenoids for emissions) and they all have continuity to the ECU. The only one I might be concerned about is maybe if the CHTS is not actually working.

I'm thinking I'm a tooth off STILL so Maybe i'll drop the pump tomorrow and click it over a tooth. It's idling at 15* BTDC but I can't advance it anymore (towards TDC) since the distributor can't be moved anymore

 

you could have told us when we asked what your timing was set at.......

details man, details......

 

I loosened the dizzy cap and tested all around the distributor but my timing seems to be fine, and evidently I'm not a tooth off. My air/fuel ratio is wayyyy off I can tell just by the smell and the fact that it idles super rough and giving it air will kill it. If i start it with the throttle halfway it will rev up to the throttle point and then just slowly die again....its been a week and i canNOT figure out what's going on...but now i'm thinking i have a boost leak...however, when I installed the AFM right before the TB and just ran it like an NA the same problem occured, but I will try again since I have the time hahaha

 

you seriously need to test your AFM man.

 

yeah that and the CHTS i think my problem lies in one of these bad boys. probably the CHTS i'm betting, in fact I might have an extra one...

edit: well its not the CHTS I tested it (boiling water/ice water/ thermometer) method and it follows the characteristic curve quite accurately, so now i'm going to attempt testing the AFM

edit: Yep, its the AFM. While doing test number one the resistance is supposed to be between 280 and 400 ohms, mine is probably somewhere around 210-230 but a good 40-50 away from 280. While doing test number two sliding the air flap while measuring the resistance yielded a very shaky needle as i slowly pushed in the flap and slowly let off. I guess its time to try a new one.

 

I am willing to put money on it, thats its the AFM.

 

everything you ever wanted to know about crappy 70' bosch EFI.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread...ht=AFM+testing

 

surprised i didnt say the AFM. it was also a cause for problems for me. as well as just loose/bad connections from a wire harness from 1982

 

i had a dream last night where bleach told me it was my timing i'm not kidding

 

Sure it wasn't a nightmare? lol

 

dude, if you havent figured this out by the time i get back to cali I'm coming down there and fixing it for you.

 

i will sell you my soul if you figure it out too

 

 

hoov don't know turbo swaps hes bluffing lol. only pushrod V8's make sense to him :P

 

lol, dont be hatin'

 

hahahahahahah

it just keeps getting better and better!!!
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here's whats happening: as i plug the afm in while the engine is running then it will idle normally, but it will start to die so i have to pull it out until it starts to die then i plug it back in. This series of in-n-out keeps the car idling, but when I turn the key completely off it will still run until it dies (the way it usually does).

 

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Thats what an N/A sounds like with just the manifold, so It still sounds like your Timing is out of wack, as for the rest. I think your electrical system is fubar.

 

dude, your timing is ****ED. that is called dieseling. its bad. your oil pump shaft is still way off. and with no AFM it shouldnt run and with no ignition it shouldn't run.

 

So, I went through all my old pictures trying to re-create what happened last summer with this engine and I stumbled upon this picture



Does anything look weird to you, TDC / notch-marking wise?

 

little bit. you never mentioned the head was ever removed... you always go through other peoples work...

whats strange though is the piston seems to be at TDC. just not the mark.

 

oh yeah i forgot to mention i took the engine mostly apart, (except i left the pistons in so I didn't mess with the crank, bearings, or pistons) and got a new head that I put on. That was last summer, but that's what i was thinking! It seems to be at TDC but not the mark, so maybe when I'm setting the timing as it is now, with the mark at 15*BTDC, it is actually somewhere around 5* BTDC, and maybe that's my problems?

 

Well... the freaking simple way to find out is to pull the valve cover & see if the cam markings are lined up properly when the motor is at TDC on cyl 1.

 

lol ^^^^ was just going to say that. and you took it apart huh? hmmm....

could be your problem. it REALLY sounds like timing is your whole issue, whether its just oil pump shaft placement or something as tough as the timing chain.

 

well so here's the problem:

The AFM was pulling in air and at idle but it was barely touching the carbon strip giving a 100ohm reading in which the ecu dumps in the most fuel, it should be somewhere around 300-400ohms at idle, so I checked the actual little copper swiper (that touches the carbon track) and was off by about 2mm, so I had to move it over so it was touching the carbon strip even with the flapper door closed. I don't know how it lost it's physical connection but the PO OBVIOUSLY messed with it, because after that I moved it over six teeth on the tensioner so it wasn't so rich. I'm probably going to move it over another four because I think its still running pretty darn rich.

My wiring was fine, however my timing is weird because it'll idle at 20+/- 1 BTDC but when I give it gas it rises to about 6 *BTDC causing serious detonation (see video). But hey, it idles fine now and I learned a shitload about AFMs now so I guess that's a +

check it out!

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ediT:
i fixed the timing, i retarded (or advanced, cant remember) the distributor while trying different TPS positions, finally hit the G-spot. Now, fix the misfire and it'll be good!!

the video is terrible but the sound is everything
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