what just blew up
 

whats the worst thing that could have just happened?
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Nice backfire lol Check your timing.

looks like your have an L28ET too right?

the exploding thing is a l28et yeah i used to like it up until about 30 minutes ago.
oh god timing is my worst enemy.

BUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

LMFAO....

your response is funniest thing i have heard all week.

lmfao......

i recommend one of those craftsmen adjustable timing lights, there easy to use, are fairly accurate and are under $100. (i think it was $65?)

lol, also make sure you have the correct wires on the correct plugs.

Good shat... Take no offense tremendousti, but your long and drawn out swap is one of the funniest things evaaarrr!!! :D

Seriously though, have you been following the swap write-ups and checking in the Haynes manual as you go? This swap shouldn't be so hard...

yeah i can rent one from kragen but can i check the timing without the sparks plugged in? just cranking it with the starter? i really dont want to take apart the head and set TDC and start from square one that means new head bolts, new gaskets...

yeah glad i could amuse you. it sucks because I have had to go to college and move from two different houses in the past 10 months and im as organized as much as obama's stimulus plan is effective

Dude... How do you not have a timing gun!!!

#1: Make sure all spark plug wires are in the correct firing order.
#2: Make sure you have the distributor installed correctly (hard to screw up on the notched turbo dizzy... but as this swap progresses, I feel the need to mention it).
-A: Line up the crank pulley to 0 (TDC)
-B: Remove dizzy cap & look @ rotor. It should be pointing straight forward (directly under #1 spark plug wire port).
#3: Make sure there is proper fuel to the injectors


arg... lets go to that point... no need to complicate things.

EDIT.... did you take care of all those vacuum leaks on your intake mani?

alright, pull the coil wire, then pull the number one spark plug, with the 1'st cyl. on its compression stroke, put the piston at TDC. Then take off the cap and make sure the rotor is pointing at the number one in the picture below.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...v100/DH4-B.jpg

is that a rat tail or just a bad mullet?

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...m/noname-4.jpg
respect it.


today's progress
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no go yet, but its not blowing up so in my book that's progress. :023:

engines need three things to run= air, fuel and spark, make sure your getting spark, then fuel and if your getting both, i would start looking at timing.



(and what does your sig mean by 71 l28et parts car?)

What are you doing to engage the ignition? Looks like you are connecting two wires when you reach down??? Why are we doing this half assed?

Get in the car and give it some gas while cranking........

whats the ECU light doing when you A) turn on the ignition then whats it do when you B) start crnking then whats it do when you C) stop cranking but leave the key in the ON position right after.



and good job telling your woman to shut up ;)

also get you own LED from radio shack you can use it to see if the injectors are firing. and did you or anyone every remove the oil pump? cause that can make timing a night mare! since you'd have to re-do it...

i'm using a key, how do YOU turn your car on? It's just dangling from the column so its easy to reach.

Okay so here's my timing

with the rotor at close to 1 it looks like this:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...m/IMG_2886.jpg
pulley
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...m/IMG_2882.jpg
when i put it in
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...oto-0590-1.jpg
what it looks like now
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...m/IMG_2889.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...m/IMG_2890.jpg
I took the gas tank out today and cleaned it off and sloshed out the old gasoline with new gas and put it back on so my gas situation is good:s-chainsaw:.

Do you have selective reading?

thetremendousti, i dunno if you've noticed yet, but there is a squirrel living in the back of your hat. May wanna take care of that before it starts breeding.:s-chainsaw::biggrin::biggrin:

Npick - yeah i gave it gas when i kept trying to start it, it still wouldn't i'm not retarded, just slow at learning :102:
matt - yeah the ECU is fine and I put the oil pump in, dont worry I checked the notch and got the right tooth, actually I think i'm a tooth off now that I think about it but I'm working on that problem after this video uploads
but check it :)
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i cleaned the spark plugs with a wire brush,re-went over all the electrical again, jumped the battery with a truck and messed with the dizzy but um it seems to be working. Also I put a half a gallon of gas in the tank I would a put more but I spilled the rest of it whoops.

ok dude, your plug wires go as fallowing on the dizzy correct? 153624 ??

also make sure you have enough fuel pressure going to the fuel rail, as a stock ass old ass pump just aint gonna cut it.

Make sure you also dont have the wires backwards like #1 wire to #6 cylinder. Ive done that mistake before.

yeah man 15 too young, 36 too old 24 just right :D i've centuple-checked them and
uh oh I have a '76 280z electric fuel pump, which puts out enough (~30 psi?) for the stock fuel rail and turbo injectors. I did take off the 4psi mechanical one so i'm half-okay i think.

Ok there's a good chunk of your problem, you need like 40PSI to run the injectors, on an N/A and I bet a turbo is more. I'd upgrade your fuel pump to the turbo one.

EDIT: Do I hear a knocking sound in the video?

oh shoot, well I just took the plugs out and they were wet, but I'm pretty sure that's cause i flooded it X( no bigs. Also, that's not a knock its just how the built-in-microphone on this laptop records a weird blup noise coming out of the exhaust.

Ah ok, I was thinking that something was lose cuz of the knock lol. Well good luck, keep us posted!

try this real quick, advance the distributor until it stop, then back off like 1/8'th of an inch. if it holds an idle like that then your dizzy is more then likely a tooth off.

you put the oil pump and shaft in wrong i bet. bet you bet you bet you!!!! stick it to top dead center number one cylinder cam lobes up and with the dampener mark at the 0* notch, drop it and put it up again. with MUCH CARE!!!! its tries to ****in twist all the time. its a tough cookie. but miss it by one tooth and it runs how your is. like shit! also clean and check connection with the AFM plug ECU plugs and ignitor as well as CHTS. and the NA fuel pump will be fine to run it. just when you floor it it will most likely loose pressure up top in the RPM range and probably sputter around 5K or just get laggy.

Exactly. Timing is hella off.

I think Hoov's right, sounds way retarded like 10 degrees. Also an L series engine will run like that without any back pressure. If you are running only the down pipe it won't run for shit. Also you need 36 psi to make the injectors squirt instead of dribble. Make sure you have plenty of gas in the tank.

One tooth off ftw!!!
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it doesnt idle but prolly cuz i have a sucky fuel pump but its rnning!!!!

alright, time for that z31 EFI swap to get rid of that crappy AFM! what do you have your spark set at as of now?

well sparks are good i'm at 15* BDTC so but I think that should be good, i'm thinking it sputters and won't idle because of my fuel pump its just a 76' 280z electric one.

I HIGHLY doubt it's because your pump is from a 76 280z. The only noticeable difference would be under full boost... at idle, you're not boosting.

If you still don't believe me, check the fuel pressure at idle...

How about posting a GOOD pic of your engine bay so we can see what's going on.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ustim/bay1.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ustim/bay2.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ustim/bay3.jpg
originals aren't much bigger, was there a portion you had in mind nismo? my vaccuum are as follows:
nipple from turbo to BOV
nipple from turbo to wastegate
j-pipe to air regulator
valve cover pcv to TB
FPR to a random vacuum on manifold
that's pretty much it that I have vacuum wise, and now that i think about it i should probably hook up the brake master cylinder up to the manifold hahaha

lol, did you check for vacuum leaks yet?

second ^^^ and also possibly un metered air coming into the intake? and i can't see the AFM. you got it mounted the right way up? not on its side or upside down? lol


also you owe me dinner since i told you what the problem was. that or your first born.


and my turbo swap ran perfect on an open down pipe. the turbo is plenty - o back pressure

Why is the valve cover vent going to the throttle body? The stock route goes to the boot between the AFM and turbo. On your setup, you are dumping boosted air into the valve cover...

one more problem is the orange thing on the right side of the block.

also i would recommend dumping the air from the BOV to right behind the AFM.

and one last problem i see is your running the stock l28et ECU and AFM.

second what nismo said. infact that might bee a vac leak. and you can vent the BOV just might try to stall between shifts. and is the spring on it tight enough? otherwise it can cause a leak to. sounds alot like a VAC leak honestly.

Ok I dont see the AFM at all, nor a MAF. that might be a problem. or its really well out of sight

Don't worry the AFM is on right, and vertical.

But woops, i was just dumb and misinterpreted a couple posts i had read a while ago in which the j-pipe was run to the air regulator (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ntake+manifold) but I switched the valve cover to the air regulator, and the j-pipe to the TB.

So I started it again and it sounded better, and ran longer than it did last time (bout 6 seconds) then i could tell that it was starved from air, and i could hear some faint hissing sound or just something that didn't sound right and then for the first time i noticed this...
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../Photo0632.jpg
then I took a closer look in the TB and there's these 2 holes right before the plate one about 1/2 inch the other about 1/4 inch that run down into this giant lookin thing with a screw on the bottom (under rubber). I will search and find try to find out what it is...

An update: I was running it how it goes (barely at all) and I unplugged the TPS while it was running and there was no change, so i tested for continuity and the wires run fine to the ECU so i took off the box to see the TPS, and I was wondering should it look like this? I have a 2prong ECU to TPS conncetor but I have 3 prongs on my TPS. I read (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...&highlight=TPS) and it seems my box is normal and everything is normal so i'm thinking the problem isn't with the TPS. Out of curiosity, why is it like this? why does that third prong go to nothingness?
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../Photo0633.jpg
in the meantime, i'm checking my AFM and stuff

Alright here's today's results:
When I unplug the TPS nothing is affected.
When I unplug the AFM it'll start to die faster, then i plug it back in it revvs back up and then starts to die again.
All wire continuity is good going to the ECU.
Idles is at 15* BTDC

alright, grab your screw driver for this, i want you to to physically grab and try and move every hose clamp from your AFM to the TB, so we can rule that out 100%

second, seal the hole on your BOV and see if it runs any better.


third, grab some starting fluid and spray lightly across the vacuum hoses and your BOV, if it raises the idle you know what to do.

that TPS is of an NA motor the turbo is a 2 prong one, either will work so its fine. and unplugging the TPS doesn't drastically change anything. i still think it might be a VAC leak. you got a VAC/Boost guage hooked up? might be a good idea will help alot out.

took off all couplers and everything from the intake to the TB and reinstalled them making sure they were all on securely. The intake manifold is completely plugged up and now im sure that my fuel circuit is fine too
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../Photo0636.jpg
oh geez...

So does it run good er what?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM_iEmb605Q
same old shit and boy is it getting exceedingly frustrating.

So have you timed it yet? With that really obvious lumpy exhaust it sounds like it's still off.

And good hell... get rid of that pos throttle body and get a normal one from a later L28 / L28ET.

whats your idle set at?

yeah maybe it is, that right there is at 15* btdc
and yeah i have a spare TB from the turbo manifold that I think i'm going to replace it with I don't like that BCDD issue at all

update: well i took off the old TB and put on a TB from a later model i believe its a '83 turbo? Its got a coolant passage on top and a AAR port but that's it, no BCDD or IAS or other port before the plate ( iono what its called) but now the problem is different. I dont get that rough idle, sometimes I dont even get it running, it'll just splutter, but at one point i had it rough idling and I could give it gas this time and it sounded alot better but then it would die again. I was thinking about adjusting my AFM tensioning but then I realized it's probably fine and I'd just end up screwing it up somehow. You can push in the plate with a 5 oz object (i set my ice cream scoop on it) on it so its probably still factory setting.

never answered my question duescher. do you have a VAC and boost guage hooked up! if so when you get her running and try get her to idle whats the VAC reading? also is it possible its flooding on you? that could be the CHTS. my turbo swap done the CHTS was bad and dirty and cruddy connecting and would flood out at idle.

Yeah i'm thinking its the CHTS I just started it up today after readjusting the AFM 2 teeth leaner it still runs the exact same. When I unplug the CHTS while its doing its rough idle it doesn't change anything.

The weird thing is this, when I give it throttle it will die for a 1/2 second and then revv up alot and then if i hold it say in the 3000rpm position it'll revvv then slowly start to die even as i hold the throttle there. Could all of this be because of some screwed up CHTS?