N42 Intake
#1
N42 Intake
How difficult is it to put a N42 intake manifold on a l28et? I've seen it done, but what do I need to do with the 4way connector between the air regulator and the j-pipe. I'm putting in intercooler piping and I'm trying to make it as clean as possible.
Last edited by Blue280zxTurbo; 05-30-2009 at 07:32 PM.
#3
Thanks pick for making me feel like a jerk, lol. I had already searched for "N42" and "j-pipe" and "egr" and kinda read that it would idle a little rough (ironically the posts were from you, lol). i had seen it done before and it looks really clean and not sure how those guys did it
#8
Yeah some other ppl on here are real quick to play the "search" card...it gets old real quick even if I'm not the one asking the question.
I myself am frequent to zdriver but not frequent to post b/c I always search first and if I feel that has not worked for me, then I ask. It's a common flaw in the message board system on every single forum on the web...oh well, **** happens
Several ppl on here are eager to help their fellow Z enthusiasts so this place still kicks ***, lol.
Thanks for the help NismoPick!
I myself am frequent to zdriver but not frequent to post b/c I always search first and if I feel that has not worked for me, then I ask. It's a common flaw in the message board system on every single forum on the web...oh well, **** happens
Several ppl on here are eager to help their fellow Z enthusiasts so this place still kicks ***, lol.
Thanks for the help NismoPick!
Last edited by Blue280zxTurbo; 05-31-2009 at 07:58 PM.
#9
Word. Really though... I don't know how people get the N42 to idle correctly on the stock L28ET EFI, especially when deleting the air regulator. It seems to be a "hit or miss" because a lot of people have that prob, some magically don't. I can't get either of my L28ET's to idle w/o the air regulator or AAC valve.
Bleach successfully deleted all of that and ran the j-pipe nipple to the back of the air regulator. I tried that and it would idle at start, but as soon as I rev'd it & let go it would die.
Bleach successfully deleted all of that and ran the j-pipe nipple to the back of the air regulator. I tried that and it would idle at start, but as soon as I rev'd it & let go it would die.
#10
Sounds like its a flip of the coin if it works or not...well i don't really wanna spend money on an N42 if it might work...they can be kinda pricy. I'll try like you and Bleach and see if I can delete some of the stuff off my mani and maybe it'll work. worth a shot at least while I got the time
#11
I'm another one who got it to work. I did just like Bleach. I had a steel block off plate made for the AAC, plugged the VCV with an L28 oil drain plug. That's something you need to make sure is plugged off is the VCV. Because once you let off the throttle the vacuum from the manifold will open that up. I ran the hose from the j-pipe to the air regulator. At first I had issues. It would idle, or barely idle then die. What I had to do was adjust the throttle stop to be open a bit more. I had to adjust it a bit and eventually got myself up to about a 700 rpm idle and then the car ran fine. Without the AAC, VCV, etc. The throttle plate is just closed too much to really give enough air.
#13
Word. Really though... I don't know how people get the N42 to idle correctly on the stock L28ET EFI, especially when deleting the air regulator. It seems to be a "hit or miss" because a lot of people have that prob, some magically don't. I can't get either of my L28ET's to idle w/o the air regulator or AAC valve.
Bleach successfully deleted all of that and ran the j-pipe nipple to the back of the air regulator. I tried that and it would idle at start, but as soon as I rev'd it & let go it would die.
Bleach successfully deleted all of that and ran the j-pipe nipple to the back of the air regulator. I tried that and it would idle at start, but as soon as I rev'd it & let go it would die.
#15
Also when it was idling really rich, were you using the Z31 ECU? I know even in the JWT documentation for upgrading to their ECUs they show you get rid of that stuff and then need to adjust the idle via the throttle stop.
#16
I plugged the "VCV" or bypass valve with the L-series oil pan drain plug.
I plugged the other small port that goes to the 4 (5 actually) connector with a new Nissan oil drain plug. Altima to be exact but I think most all of them are the same now.
The other small ports were normal 10mm bolts. Yes it idled great. It never had the midrange power that my current stock 280ZX turbo has. I feel either I had a bad AFM or a very small boost leak. All my hoses were new on the entire engine too.
the smooth manifold belongs to Hughdog in Portland. Not only is it an N42 with no EGR, but he did aluminum welds to fill all the other holes the polished everything. He put a couple vacuum ports on the underside. he still runs a hose for the idle solinoid but mounted it down on the block. It pulls in air from the atmosphere
I plugged the other small port that goes to the 4 (5 actually) connector with a new Nissan oil drain plug. Altima to be exact but I think most all of them are the same now.
The other small ports were normal 10mm bolts. Yes it idled great. It never had the midrange power that my current stock 280ZX turbo has. I feel either I had a bad AFM or a very small boost leak. All my hoses were new on the entire engine too.
the smooth manifold belongs to Hughdog in Portland. Not only is it an N42 with no EGR, but he did aluminum welds to fill all the other holes the polished everything. He put a couple vacuum ports on the underside. he still runs a hose for the idle solinoid but mounted it down on the block. It pulls in air from the atmosphere
#17
Nismopick and Duowing, I tried this on 3 different setups with the same results. The stock injectors, my Z31 tuned ecu for 440s, and the JWT 4 bar setup I'm currently using. Each time I blocked off all ports, and took the air regulator out of the equation, my idle afr dipped into the 12s, or low 13s. I think the air regulator is what makes the difference though (the part that connects to the j-pipes nipple). I'm pretty sure as long as that is connected, you can remove the other stuff with no ill effects, but I'm fine with keeping everything on. Of course with a tunable ecu, you can just tweak your fuel map to run leaner at idle to compensate.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thomas schuchat
240Z, 260Z, 280Z (S30) Forums
0
04-17-2003 11:26 AM
Bookmarks